I have been getting spit back when I fill my Jeep so I took it to the dealership to cash in on the "Lifetime Warranty" replacement for the fill tube. My Jeep originally came from Canada and when the dealership saw that, they denied me coverage because of reasons. It's my understanding that if they were to do warranty work on a Jeep originating from Canada, the Earth would rotate off of it's axis and plummet into the Sun. So I decided I would replace the part myself.
This is an extremely easy repair to do. So easy in fact, I haven't found any write ups on it on the web. But I figured I would do one for the not-so-mechanically inclined DIYer.
Before you begin... your Jeep is most likely covered under the "Lifetime Warranty Extension". This is not the same thing as the Lifetime warranty offered for new Jeep owners. Even if you did not buy the Jeep new, you should be covered unless certain circumstances (like mine) are present. So, check with your dealership first to see if they'll do this for free. Here is the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the repair:
Time: Less than 20 minutes.
Cost: Approximately 40 dollars if you buy the parts online.
Difficulty: Very Easy
What you'll need:
A pair of wire snips, a stubby Phillips screwdriver, 2 zip-ties, and the new fuel fill tube (part number CNNNX321AC). The TSB calls for 2 "tie straps" part number 06016076 but these are simply zip ties.
Place your tools and parts in front of the driver-side rear tire (this will make it easier to grab them).
The part we are replacing sits directly above the rear axle and slightly forward. It runs parallel to the ground and is easiest to access by sliding under the Jeep from the rear bumper. In this picture, you can see the fuel tube, as well as the rear differential. (The fuel tube runs horizontally from the driver side tire to the passenger side tire.)
We need to snip the 2 zip ties holding the main fuel tube to the recovery line. Be careful not to snip the recovery line.
Now we need to loosen the hose clamp that connects the new part to the filler neck. There are 2 clamps that hold the part in. This is the hose clamp on the driver side that needs to be loosened.
Now we need to loosen the hose clamp that connects the new part to the gas tank. This is the hose clamp that connects to the fuel tank and is on the passenger side (relative to the new part). Notice that it is located almost directly above the rear differential.
I chose to remove the fuel tank side first and then slip out the other end that attaches to the filler neck.
Once you get the fill tube off the fuel tank, the other side slips off easily. We are now ready to install the new part! Start by placing the fuel tube in place starting with the driver side (or the side that attaches to the filler neck).
Next, place the other side of the new fuel tube onto the gas tank. Once they are both in place, rotate it back and forth to ensure the hoses are seated onto the surfaces. Tighten down the hose clamps but be careful to not over-tighten the side of the fuel tank. The fuel tank is not metal and you don't want to crank the tank by over tightening.
To finish up the install, we need to replace the 2 zip-ties securing the recovery line onto the new part. There's no need to crank these down, just snug them up enough to stop excessive movement on the recovery line.
And that's it, you're all done. Here is a picture of the old fuel tube.
To ensure this problem never happens again, I suggest selling your Chrysler product and going with something GM made.
Cheers!
This is an extremely easy repair to do. So easy in fact, I haven't found any write ups on it on the web. But I figured I would do one for the not-so-mechanically inclined DIYer.
Before you begin... your Jeep is most likely covered under the "Lifetime Warranty Extension". This is not the same thing as the Lifetime warranty offered for new Jeep owners. Even if you did not buy the Jeep new, you should be covered unless certain circumstances (like mine) are present. So, check with your dealership first to see if they'll do this for free. Here is the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the repair:
Time: Less than 20 minutes.
Cost: Approximately 40 dollars if you buy the parts online.
Difficulty: Very Easy
What you'll need:
A pair of wire snips, a stubby Phillips screwdriver, 2 zip-ties, and the new fuel fill tube (part number CNNNX321AC). The TSB calls for 2 "tie straps" part number 06016076 but these are simply zip ties.
Place your tools and parts in front of the driver-side rear tire (this will make it easier to grab them).
The part we are replacing sits directly above the rear axle and slightly forward. It runs parallel to the ground and is easiest to access by sliding under the Jeep from the rear bumper. In this picture, you can see the fuel tube, as well as the rear differential. (The fuel tube runs horizontally from the driver side tire to the passenger side tire.)
We need to snip the 2 zip ties holding the main fuel tube to the recovery line. Be careful not to snip the recovery line.
Now we need to loosen the hose clamp that connects the new part to the filler neck. There are 2 clamps that hold the part in. This is the hose clamp on the driver side that needs to be loosened.
Now we need to loosen the hose clamp that connects the new part to the gas tank. This is the hose clamp that connects to the fuel tank and is on the passenger side (relative to the new part). Notice that it is located almost directly above the rear differential.
I chose to remove the fuel tank side first and then slip out the other end that attaches to the filler neck.
Once you get the fill tube off the fuel tank, the other side slips off easily. We are now ready to install the new part! Start by placing the fuel tube in place starting with the driver side (or the side that attaches to the filler neck).
Next, place the other side of the new fuel tube onto the gas tank. Once they are both in place, rotate it back and forth to ensure the hoses are seated onto the surfaces. Tighten down the hose clamps but be careful to not over-tighten the side of the fuel tank. The fuel tank is not metal and you don't want to crank the tank by over tightening.
To finish up the install, we need to replace the 2 zip-ties securing the recovery line onto the new part. There's no need to crank these down, just snug them up enough to stop excessive movement on the recovery line.
And that's it, you're all done. Here is a picture of the old fuel tube.
To ensure this problem never happens again, I suggest selling your Chrysler product and going with something GM made.
Cheers!
