Sell jeep 2008 needing repairs ?

sportsdad12

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My 2008 Jeep Wrangler needs a new engine. I have about 110,000 miles on it. I am thinking it wouldn't be worth getting it fixed. Can anybody advise is there a way to sell a Jeep that needs repairs? Can you sell it for parts? This is in Denver Colorado.
Thank you
 
My 2008 Jeep Wrangler needs a new engine. I have about 110,000 miles on it. I am thinking it wouldn't be worth getting it fixed. Can anybody advise is there a way to sell a Jeep that needs repairs? Can you sell it for parts? This is in Denver Colorado.
Thank you

If you was closer I might be willing to work out a deal on mine, i'd like to do a different engine transplant in one.

You don't have anything to loose by trying to sell it.
 
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My 2008 Jeep Wrangler needs a new engine. I have about 110,000 miles on it. I am thinking it wouldn't be worth getting it fixed. Can anybody advise is there a way to sell a Jeep that needs repairs? Can you sell it for parts? This is in Denver Colorado.
Thank you

I'm sure there's someone out there that would love to get a shell for the right price to slap a hemi in.

That said, a reman 3.8 is less than $4k.
 
I'd either do a 4bt Cummins or a 4.3 GM V6.

Haven't looked into the v6. Not sure I'd want to do all that work to put in a different v6.

Although, one thing I have noticed, is that the newer 8 speed transmissions are a game changer on the new Wranglers. That's really been the bad design problem around the Wranglers....the transmissions....not the engines.

Not sure what the options would be on transmissions with a cumins or the 4.3.....but it would be a lot more custom work I think than putting in a hemi.
 
4bt Cummins
This all day. If there was ever a better article written stating the case for putting a diesel in a JK, here you go:

https://www.bruiserconversions.com/news/bruiser-jeep-wrangler-jk-cummins-diesel-conversions

Diesel Bruiser Conversions is swapping Cummins diesels into not only CJ, YJ, and TJ Jeeps, but has perfected the JK Wrangler swap, as well. The Cummins mill and GM transmission interface with the JK’s CANbus system and there are no warning lights or issues. Jeff’s Jeep Yard in Florida, River Raider Off Road in Pennsylvania, and Trail Jeeps in Colorado are performing the Diesel Bruiser conversions.

Diesel Bruiser Conversions removes the 3.8L engine and 42RLE factory automatic and replaces it using the 4BT Cummins turbo diesel, utilizing Bruiser conversion brackets, a mechanical bellcrank assembly with Lokar stainless throttle and t.v. cable for the Raptor 700R4 automatic, as well as a bracket for the floorboard to accept a manual throttle pedal. An AC and alternator bracket enables the swap to re-use the existing AC compressor and alternator from the 3.8L. The serpentine belt is upgraded to an eight groove belt, along with the AC clutch and alternator pulley.

The 4BT is highly modifiable, has multi-fuel capability, produces fantastic torque off-idle, and has the capability to go 500,000 miles without a rebuild. You can see the front dress includes the OE alternator and AC compressor that have eight groove pullies installed so they work with the eight groove serpentine belt that’s a part of this conversion.


Custom AC lines go to the factory compressor in its new location. The battery tray relocates the battery and the fuse /relay box for proper clearance for the cold air intake and turbo. The wiring harness is completely re-engineered to control all engine functions as well as communicate with the factory ECM through a S.I.M. (Systems Integration and Management) computer.


The hydraulic motor mounts are designed to remove the 4BT’s vibration and are located in the custom engine mounting bracket assembly. The gear-driven power steering pump for the 4BT is utilized and high-pressure and return lines are custom made to connect to the OE power steering gearbox. The pump makes enough pressure to operate aftermarket ram assist or full hydraulic steering systems as it’s designed to operate a hydroboost brake assist system.

The Bruiser 4BT four-cylinder Cummins conversion fits the JK as if it came from the factory. The stock radiator is retained and works fine, even in hot desert environments.


The factory radiator and fan assembly are retained. The 4BT does not require an extreme cooling system to maintain the proper temperature range of 180-degrees F. The lower water neck is replaced with a custom-built neck that allows you to re-use the factory lower hose from the 3.8L. The upper hose is replaced.

The braking system is controlled by a Stainless Steel Brake Corporation (SSBC) vacuum pump and reservoir canister to create vacuum for the braking system due to the diesel engine’s inherent lack of vacuum. The engine is mated to the 700R4 Raptor transmission through a Bruiser adapter and flexplate. The transmission is mated to the factory transfer case through a custom adapter and broached tailshaft assembly. The cooling lines are custom for the transmission as are all brackets to attach the factory shifter cables to the transmission and transfer case. This allows re-use of OE transmission and transfer case shifters in their factory locations. OE-length drive shafts work with up to six inches of lift.

Jeff’s diesel JK is producing 402 lb-ft of torque at 2,100 rpm (off-idle torque is 280 lb-ft!) and 140 hp at 2,700 rpm. It’s returning 28 mpg in the city and 32 on the highway. It handles as a JK should and works well off-road. With all that low-rpm torque, you seldom have to spin a tire in the dirt with the Bruiser.
 
My 2008 Jeep Wrangler needs a new engine. I have about 110,000 miles on it. I am thinking it wouldn't be worth getting it fixed. Can anybody advise is there a way to sell a Jeep that needs repairs? Can you sell it for parts? This is in Denver Colorado.
Thank you
I also live in Denver and it’s a huge market for Jeeps. When I bought my 2014 JK three years ago I was hard pressed to find anything with under 75k miles on it. I did luck out and find one with 31k. I would think if you put it on Craig’s List you’ll get some responses. If you’re wanting another Jeep you may have to look for awhile. Best of luck!
 
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Cummins engines are so easy to swap into anything, just pick your favorite vehicle and drop one in. My other 2 vehicles are Cummins swaps.
I'd be curious to know what drive train upgrades you did to accommodate the huge increase in torque?
The Diesel Bruiser conversion says their test platform included Dana 60s both front and back, but what about the gearing? Especially if they're pulling 32 mpg.
 
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I'd be curious to know what drive train upgrades you did to accommodate the huge increase in torque?
The Diesel Bruiser conversion says their test platform included Dana 60s both front and back, but what about the gearing? Especially if they're pulling 32 mpg.

The Blazer I used all the drivetrain from the 97 Dodge, the Ford is a 1 ton it was ready to go.
 
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I'd be curious to know what drive train upgrades you did to accommodate the huge increase in torque?
The Diesel Bruiser conversion says their test platform included Dana 60s both front and back, but what about the gearing? Especially if they're pulling 32 mpg.

Yeah I was looking into that. They do mention it in one of the articles I read that 3.73 gears were used if I remember correctly.

Lower gears apparently create RPM issues, so if you're on 4.88s or 5.13's or something....you'll need lower gearing.

I'm guessing with all that torque you're looking at new axles anyway. Build I saw was using Dynatracs
 
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Yeah I was looking into that. They do mention it in one of the articles I read that 3.73 gears were used if I remember correctly.

Lower gears apparently create RPM issues, so if you're on 4.88s or 5.13's or something....you'll need lower gearing.

I'm guessing with all that torque you're looking at new axles anyway. Build I saw was using Dynatracs

Higher gearing i mean...numerically lower...
 
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My 2008 Jeep Wrangler needs a new engine. I have about 110,000 miles on it. I am thinking it wouldn't be worth getting it fixed. Can anybody advise is there a way to sell a Jeep that needs repairs? Can you sell it for parts? This is in Denver Colorado.
Thank you
So, let's say you decide to invest in a new motor- around $4k. Toss in the labor and you're looking at another $2k maybe?
How much are you going to spend on a vehicle to replace your Jeep? If it's more than $6-7k, then I'd say you've answered your own question. A new engine means driving your Jeep for another 10 years or so, meaning that engine cost about $600-700 a year.

I'm not trying to be a smart-ass or anything, but the used car market right now is ridiculous and I wouldn't recommend anyone buying a vehicle right now, especially something as popular as a Jeep. I haven't paid much attention, but I'll go out on a limb and say that you'll pay 25-30%, maybe more, than the same vehicle would have fetched a year ago.

See this?
1638383657874.png


I have a 2014 JKU Sahara w/16k more miles than this. Lifted 2.5" with 35x12.5 brand new tires and shocks, and a lot of creature comforts and goodies. This dealer is relaltively close to me.
I paid $35k for mine 5.5 years ago.
A year ago this JKU was probably selling for $25k (high end) in very good condition.
 
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So, let's say you decide to invest in a new motor- around $4k. Toss in the labor and you're looking at another $2k maybe?
How much are you going to spend on a vehicle to replace your Jeep? If it's more than $6-7k, then I'd say you've answered your own question. A new engine means driving your Jeep for another 10 years or so, meaning that engine cost about $600-700 a year.

I'm not trying to be a smart-ass or anything, but the used car market right now is ridiculous and I wouldn't recommend anyone buying a vehicle right now, especially something as popular as a Jeep. I haven't paid much attention, but I'll go out on a limb and say that you'll pay 25-30%, maybe more, than the same vehicle would have fetched a year ago.

See this?
View attachment 120176

I have a 2014 JKU Sahara w/16k more miles than this. Lifted 2.5" with 35x12.5 brand new tires and shocks, and a lot of creature comforts and goodies. This dealer is relaltively close to me.
I paid $35k for mine 5.5 years ago.
A year ago this JKU was probably selling for $25k (high end) in very good condition.

Yep. Never understood why people would spend more to get another car than to fix the one they have.

I mean unless they just don't want it anymore, or need an immediate replacement and can't spare the time for a vehicle to be down.

Thankfully my JK is my "fun" vehicle and I have two others so can spare the time to do major stuff on it. I suppose a lot of people don't have that luxury. I suppose a lot of people don't have the space or desire to work on their own vehicle as well.

Not being judgemental with this particular case, but I understand what you're saying.
 
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Yep. Never understood why people would spend more to get another car than to fix the one they have.

I mean unless they just don't want it anymore, or need an immediate replacement and can't spare the time for a vehicle to be down.

Thankfully my JK is my "fun" vehicle and I have two others so can spare the time to do major stuff on it. I suppose a lot of people don't have that luxury. I suppose a lot of people don't have the space or desire to work on their own vehicle as well.

Not being judgemental with this particular case, but I understand what you're saying.
I have 6 tagged vehicles at the moment. A few more I can seasonally tag. My Jeep is my fun vehicle also. In ANY other case id agree with you guys. Cheaper to swap an engine and drive that. I own a shop and swap engines plenty. Assuming you are swapping the same engine back in its very easy and never causes any issue. 2k would be high side on labor a 3.8 long block. Ive not done a 3.6 though so idk. To do a non- factory swap (ls, diesel, whatever) I just charge by the hour. After the engine is in the sorting starts. Every weak part will show itself (and Mopar is known for weak parts). I just put a 2000 vortec 454 in an 85 c10. Getting the engines physically in and bolted up and running is just the beginning.

Short version... if this is a second vehicle and not needed for the utmost dependability then just swap the engine and wheel it.

In this case though you are putting 6k in a jeep which at the end of the day is still going to be an American/ Chinese/ German/ French / Dutch/ Italian mix of parts. Not like swapping a new 2jz or 22r into a Toyota or ls into a Chevy 1500 which will likely be trouble free for 300k more miles.
In 2014 (the ops year) the bottom 4 brands for reliability according to consumer reports were Jeep, Ram, Fiat, and Dodge. Out of 40 car companies. ALL the same company. In my shop I would agree with that. I service several Mopar vehicles. No other company has went broke every 5 years and been sold off. Despite selling very well and having the government promise to pay for their warranty service because they couldn't.
 
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I have 6 tagged vehicles at the moment. A few more I can seasonally tag. My Jeep is my fun vehicle also. In ANY other case id agree with you guys. Cheaper to swap an engine and drive that. I own a shop and swap engines plenty. Assuming you are swapping the same engine back in its very easy and never causes any issue. 2k would be high side on labor a 3.8 long block. Ive not done a 3.6 though so idk. To do a non- factory swap (ls, diesel, whatever) I just charge by the hour. After the engine is in the sorting starts. Every weak part will show itself (and Mopar is known for weak parts). I just put a 2000 vortec 454 in an 85 c10. Getting the engines physically in and bolted up and running is just the beginning.

Short version... if this is a second vehicle and not needed for the utmost dependability then just swap the engine and wheel it.

In this case though you are putting 6k in a jeep which at the end of the day is still going to be an American/ Chinese/ German/ French / Dutch/ Italian mix of parts. Not like swapping a new 2jz or 22r into a Toyota or ls into a Chevy 1500 which will likely be trouble free for 300k more miles.
In 2014 (the ops year) the bottom 4 brands for reliability according to consumer reports were Jeep, Ram, Fiat, and Dodge. Out of 40 car companies. ALL the same company. In my shop I would agree with that. I service several Mopar vehicles. No other company has went broke every 5 years and been sold off. Despite selling very well and having the government promise to pay for their warranty service because they couldn't.

I hear what you're saying about reliability by the manufacturer but few vehicles keep it's resale value like a Jeep Wrangler.

When you look at the reliability ratings, what kind of stands out is that the complaints made are comfort issues, "death wobble", how it handles, "noise" (i.e being a Jeep), etc.

The cost of ownership isn't significantly higher than any other vehicle, either.

I think a lot of the complaints are people who just don't understand what they're buying, or just aren't mechanically inclined.

Looking at purchasing sites right now a basically stock Wrangler resells for $25-$35k.

I mean I can't speak for everyone else, but few vehicles I've owned have put a smile on my face like my project JK. Of course, when I first bought it, it was more like a look of terror trying to drive it 70 in a straight line on the road with the steering issues it had. The previous owner clearly didn't understand how to maintain it or fix it.

Anyway, good luck in your sale. I doubt you'll have it for long with or without an engine.
 
I hear what you're saying about reliability by the manufacturer but few vehicles keep it's resale value like a Jeep Wrangler.

--------I was just offered a nice chunk of change by someone who saw me getting in my TJ. I had to decline because it's too close to my heart.
Looking at purchasing sites right now a basically stock Wrangler resells for $25-$35k.
Now that, to me, is a good move: sell my JKU for a premium, more than I paid, and make a lateral move to something basic or a pickup. Even if it's more money, Im getting more for the JK too.

OP - I cant argue the fact that newer Chrysler or the JK era is a mixed bag. You'll still get a decent penny for a JK shell.
 
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Now that, to me, is a good move: sell my JKU for a premiom, more than I paid, and make a lateral move to something basic or a pickup. Even if it's more money, Im getting more for the JK too.

OP - I cant argue the fact that newer Chrysler or the JK era is a mixed bag. You'll still get a decent penny for a JK shell.

Yeah I mean it all depends on what you want.

I mean some people still buy BMW's ;)
 
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I hear what you're saying about reliability by the manufacturer but few vehicles keep it's resale value like a Jeep Wrangler.

When you look at the reliability ratings, what kind of stands out is that the complaints made are comfort issues, "death wobble", how it handles, "noise" (i.e being a Jeep), etc.

The cost of ownership isn't significantly higher than any other vehicle, either.

I think a lot of the complaints are people who just don't understand what they're buying, or just aren't mechanically inclined.

Looking at purchasing sites right now a basically stock Wrangler resells for $25-$35k.

I mean I can't speak for everyone else, but few vehicles I've owned have put a smile on my face like my project JK. Of course, when I first bought it, it was more like a look of terror trying to drive it 70 in a straight line on the road with the steering issues it had. The previous owner clearly didn't understand how to maintain it or fix it.

Anyway, good luck in your sale. I doubt you'll have it for long with or without an engine.
Absolutely on the smile factor. That was my point. The jeep does things nothing will.in terms of capability or fun My FJ, Z71 and FX4 are more comparable to my mach one than my Rubicon. And the Rubicon isn't stupid bad on road either unless it's been screwed up with poor fitting tires and lift. I took mine to the east coast a few times. Cruise on 80 or 85. Couldn't hear myself think and didn't get to pass up many gas stations but it handled just fine. I took mine to Tellico about a week after I got it. Lol. But even majority of jeep owners (ones who don't trade to keep a warranty) will admit reliability is pretty abysmal. There are a million gm, Ford, and Toyota with 300k that still have miles left. The aforementioned FJ, z71 and fx4 will see 300k. Ive taken engines out of gm and ford and Toyota with 300k and put into other vehicles. No way id take out any Mopar engine made after the LA blocks (318,360) with 300k and offer any warranty. Not even the 4.0 which I like. Usually I'm taking a hemi out of one with 150k and rusted apart and putting into a ram with 150k and a good body. Lol. The last one I did this year was 2 identical ram with 200k one rusted apart. When I pulled the donor I found out that the engine in it was a 360. It already had one engine in 200k. Ive run a shop and my family have car sales lots. It's incredibly rare to see a Mopar (especially a wrangler) that is decent mechanically after 150k unless it's all replaced. Rare to see a subaru, Toyota, Honda, GM, or Ford ( truck based vehicles) fail before 300 Mechanically. A company I deal with builds majority of the emergency vehicles in the USA, and several abroad. They dropped Dodge many years ago. It seems when ambulances are reliable....people get mad. They still have Nissan,GM, Ford and Mercedes.

Things like Tipm, constant head gaskets, misfires and transmission problems have plagued the jeeps since they dropped the 4.0. Coupled with the fact that the company changes hands and new engine transmissions and designs come by the time the first problems are ironed out.... hasn't helped. My little anemic 3.8 has been ok though. And my 6 speed is fine. I drive several old vehicles, many with I beams and straight front axles. Death wobble is just a thing. Lol .

And yeah....buying a used BMW or Rover is about bottom of the barrel. (Or Nissan with CVT) I have a friend who bought an x5 with 200k. Super fun ride. But in two years he has put 10k in parts. Lol. I had a neighbor with a twin turbo v10 (m something) . That sucker was a beast and nice too. He drove a duramax for his reliable car though wife drove a Denali. Lol
 
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