Rubicon axles or re-gear?

Reagear sport axles or swap in Rubicon axles?

  • Regear

    Votes: 3 100.0%
  • Used Rubicon axles?

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    3

Wcampbell40

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
64
Location
Southwest Indiana
I recently got a quote for a regear and a rear locker for my JKU Sport but then I found some used JK Rubicon axles. The used axles would be about $1000 more than the regear. What would you do?
 
I recently got a quote for a regear and a rear locker for my JKU Sport but then I found some used JK Rubicon axles. The used axles would be about $1000 more than the regear. What would you do?

Do those axles have the gears you want in them?
 
I was going to regear my axles to 4.56 and the axles I found have the stock Rubicon 4.10. My thought right now is going from 3.21 to 4.10 would be good and and Dana 44 up front might let me go 37" tires in the future.
 
I was going to regear my axles to 4.56 and the axles I found have the stock Rubicon 4.10. My thought right now is going from 3.21 to 4.10 would be good and and Dana 44 up front might let me go 37" tires in the future.

Are you going to be able to inspect the axles real good to make sure your not buying someones Junk?
 
I do plan on inspecting them very closely but with that being said I've never bought axles before. My big concern is that they are straight and that the gears are not tore up. I figure I can pop the diff covers off and look at the teeth to make sure there aren't any chips or broken teeth. Does anyone have any tips on how to tell if the lockers are in operating condition since they are not installed on the jeep? Also any tips for checking that the axles are straight and the Cs aren't bent other than looking for major bends.
 
I do plan on inspecting them very closely but with that being said I've never bought axles before. My big concern is that they are straight and that the gears are not tore up. I figure I can pop the diff covers off and look at the teeth to make sure there aren't any chips or broken teeth. Does anyone have any tips on how to tell if the lockers are in operating condition since they are not installed on the jeep? Also any tips for checking that the axles are straight and the Cs aren't bent other than looking for major bends.

Your saying the axles are torn apart?
 
No the seller says they are in great condition. He said they were removed to swap 1 tons under his jeep so they are no longer on his jeep. They are whole, brakes, control arms and everything else just no long on the jeep.
 
No the seller says they are in great condition. He said they were removed to swap 1 tons under his jeep so they are no longer on his jeep. They are whole, brakes, control arms and everything else just no long on the jeep.

I was thinking you meant the lockers were out but you meant the axle are out so no way to check them lockers. They are just a Pos and Neg 2 wire aren't they so you just need to know which wire is which. I would think if you listened closely you would hear a click when energized.
 
I'm very much new to everything that has to do with differential gears. What would play or no play indicate in a check like that?

Beings it's used it will have just a bit of play,. You could do this for a example, block your wheels and put Jeep in neutral. Grab the driveshaft and turn it back and forth, probably 1/4 to 3/8 movement is what a vehicle with some miles on it will have.
 
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Also there is usually a magnet in the diffs either on the fill plug or stuck to the cover. Look for alot of metal some fine stuff will be normal.
 
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I'd say it would depend on whether you have an auto or a manual, and what size tire you ultimately want to end up running.
 
I have an automatic. I'm currently on 35s and will be for at least probably 6-7 years because I just bought these 35s and I don't put a lot of miles on my jeep. I definitely like the idea of moving up to 37s if I had a front dana 44 but if I go to 37s I'll probably be back in this situation of needing to regear these axles too.
 
I have an automatic. I'm currently on 35s and will be for at least probably 6-7 years because I just bought these 35s and I don't put a lot of miles on my jeep. I definitely like the idea of moving up to 37s if I had a front dana 44 but if I go to 37s I'll probably be back in this situation of needing to regear these axles too.

You could always regear yours and later when you have the extra money put the lockers in. The Dana 44 is actually a little stronger for the offroading/rock crawling. The stock front will handle the 37's on trail riding and daily driving, you could also gusset the stock one.
 
My issue I have is that I have the Dana 30 up front right now. The more I think about it I seem to be taking myself out of the Rubicon axles I was looking at and just regearing my stock axles for now. Then when I have the disposable funds I'll upgrade to an ultimate 44 or something along those lines for a front axle.
 
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My issue I have is that I have the Dana 30 up front right now. The more I think about it I seem to be taking myself out of the Rubicon axles I was looking at and just regearing my stock axles for now. Then when I have the disposable funds I'll upgrade to an ultimate 44 or something along those lines for a front axle.

I was just wondering why someone would be selling them unless they came from a wrecked Jeep, or they upgraded to some HD aftermarket ones.
 
That is my major concern too but the seller said they were removed because he upgraded to 1 tons. Attached is the pic from the sellers ad. They definitely do look a little rough compared to the axles on my jeep.

Screenshot_20210322-112457_Facebook.jpg