Roof rack mounting without rain gutters on the rear half of the hard top

[WestCoastDan]

Since we only haves rain gutters over the rear doors, & none above the rear windows, I'm wondering how others have addressed the roof rack mounting.
I've seen a few brands of racks that mount on the gutters at the front & behind the rear glass hinges at the rear, but I have a nice pair of gutter-mount cross bars that I'd like to be able to use.
The problem I see is that I can't get them spread far enough apart on the existing rain gutters to provide a stable base.

Has anyone here drilled holes through the top to add 'artificial rain gutters' such as these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0989TZGMP/?tag=jkforum-20
Or any other approaches that I might have overlooked?

Not looking to add a full roof rack or carry a ton of gear, but having the ability to secure fishing rods, a ladder, or some lumber would be a big help.

 

[Anybodyhome]

This is my SmittyBilt Defender rack. It's been on my JKU for almost 6 years now and I could not be happier. It was about $500 when I bought it and the mounting brackets for the JKU are an additional $100.
The gutter mounts are at the rear end of the gutters over the rear doors and the rear brackets are mounted to the rear window hinge. No removal of the glass required. The brackets are slotted in such a way the hinge bolts are simply loosened and the bracket slips in and you tighten the bolts.
I'll post additional close-ups of the bracket system later.
I will tell you this- I am 6'6" and very close to 300 lbs. I can reach up, grab one of the rack bars and pull myself up on the rear bumper or on top of the rear tire when I putting stuff up there. The rack does not move in the slightest. Matter of fact, I've not even had to so much as tighten a bolt on it since I installed it.
Another key feature- the freedom panels are completely clear of the rack and can be removed as designed. The entire top can be removed with the rack attached. Matter of fact, the rack makes a much better attachment point to lift the top.
I have a 4' x 3' (16" height) roof bag that fits perfectly in the rack if I have multiple pieces of luggage or something. I have 2 large dogs who inhabit the entire back of my JKU, so this purchase was a must.
Again, could not be happier with my purchase.

 

[Cobriscus]

My Jeep has the Rhino Backbone system and it is pretty stout. My wife is driving it today, so I will try to those some photos up later. You have to drill through the top to mount it, but the inner frame spreads the load well. I realize you have your own set of crossbars you want to use. Have you checked with the manufacturer of your bars to see if that have roof clips/towers for the Jeep? My wife has a nice set of cross bars for her Acura, that within reason based on the width of the vehicle, can be mounted on other vehicle if you have the right towers. We plan to buy new towers for her next car, so we can continue to use the bars.

 

[Anybodyhome]

Most car top rack systems have different brackets, towers, mounting hardware specific to differing car manufacturers. If you have an existing system or parts you want to convert to your JK, I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer directly.

You have to drill through the top to mount it, but the inner frame spreads the load well.

Is the Rhino system you describe designed to drill through the top, or is that a DIY thing you decided on? When I was looking for my rack, I saw a couple that required drilling, and I avoided them for obvious reasons.

 

[Cobriscus]

If I am not mistaken, this is the the system that I have (link below). It is drilled and reinforced inside the top. My wife took off in the Jeep this morning, so when she gets home I can snap some photos. I would assume you could install it yourself and that it comes with a template for getting it right. I did not install this.

https://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/pro...-3-bar-rhino-rack-backbone-roof-rack_jc-01312

 

[WestCoastDan]

My Jeep has the Rhino Backbone system and it is pretty stout. My wife is driving it today, so I will try to those some photos up later. You have to drill through the top to mount it, but the inner frame spreads the load well. I realize you have your own set of crossbars you want to use. Have you checked with the manufacturer of your bars to see if that have roof clips/towers for the Jeep? My wife has a nice set of cross bars for her Acura, that within reason based on the width of the vehicle, can be mounted on other vehicle if you have the right towers. We plan to buy new towers for her next car, so we can continue to use the bars.

Thanks for this thought.
I found out that the old Trac-Rac system that I have is now owned by Thule, (or at least sold with the Thule name on them) and the adapters are available on their site. https://www.thule.com/en-us/roof-rack/roof-racks-and-accessories/thule-artificial-raingutters-_-1036

I'm mostly curious if there are any precautions or concerns about where it's best/OK to drill and any specific areas to stay clear of on the sides/top.

I'm not even sure my wife will approve yet (it's hers too & I've gotta be a partner).
I'm just reviewing options for additional storage with what i already have.
For short or light items like snowboards, fishing poles, etc, we may be fine to mount both crossbars on the rain gutters that already exist.

 

[Cobriscus]

As promised, finally, here are some shots of my Rhino Rack. All three rows are drilled through the top and reinforced inside. Looks like the top needs to come off for the work to be completed, I would assume this applies to any roof rack system.

 

[coolarmybrat]

Be very careful when considering putting brackets and having the fiberglass top fully supports any roof rack system; depending on the weight you put on the rack, eventually the fiberglass body will crack and it will cost more to either repair the body and/or replace the roof. Do it right the first time and your Jeep, including the fiberglass roof, will last for a long time. If there is an inkling in your mind (in the future) that you want to support a roof top tent or anything heavier than 150 lbs., please consider roof racks that has brackets that are internally supported and/or direct body-mounted support (not roof top). Products such as Adventure Rack System (Metalcloak), Rhino, Teraflex Nebo, etc. will ensure your Jeep is protected from eventual physical damage.

Below is my setup, ARS Low Pro Mod Rack. With this rack, I can use it with my hard top, soft top and Safari top (as seen). As you can see it is a low profile track and is supported directly by the support bars (pillar C and top support bar).

 

[WestCoastDan]

As promised, finally, here are some shots of my Rhino Rack. All three rows are drilled through the top and reinforced inside. Looks like the top needs to come off for the work to be completed, I would assume this applies to any roof rack system. View attachment 121987View attachment 121988View attachment 121989View attachment 121990View attachment 121991

Thanks for these photos. As suspected, the structure behind the mounting points is what is supporting the rack, not just the top itself.
This has made my decision to not drill through the top and add the rain gutter adapters much easier.

 

[WestCoastDan]

Be very careful when considering putting brackets and having the fiberglass top fully supports any roof rack system; depending on the weight you put on the rack, eventually the fiberglass body will crack and it will cost more to either repair the body and/or replace the roof. Do it right the first time and your Jeep, including the fiberglass roof, will last for a long time. If there is an inkling in your mind (in the future) that you want to support a roof top tent or anything heavier than 150 lbs., please consider roof racks that has brackets that are internally supported and/or direct body-mounted support (not roof top). Products such as Adventure Rack System (Metalcloak), Rhino, Teraflex Nebo, etc. will ensure your Jeep is protected from eventual physical damage.

Below is my setup, ARS Low Pro Mod Rack. With this rack, I can use it with my hard top, soft top and Safari top (as seen). As you can see it is a low profile track and is supported directly by the support bars (pillar C and top support bar).

View attachment 121992

View attachment 121993

View attachment 121994

View attachment 121995

Agreed regarding the structural requirements; not just holes in the top.
Your setup is about 1000 times stronger than what I would ever need my rack for.
That being said, for the small, light items that I want to attach to the top of the vehicle, I’ll be fine to just spread out the crossbars that I have on the existing rain gutters.