Oil cooler install is failing

R

Rworell

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May 26, 2026
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Box Elder South Dakota
Hello all. I had my oil cooler done 3 months ago at a shop (21012 JK) for coolant issues. Had them put in the Dorman metal one and I’m thinking it’s failing. Got under to do an oil change and saw this. Rear main seal is good.
What is your thoughts and have ya dealt with this before?
I’m going to monitor it until I’m back at the shop next month. Oil levels are good. I don’t see liquid oil on the side of the cooler but it’s so limited as to what you can see due to the intake.

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It’s certainly possible it’s failing. The Dorman ones also have a spotty track record just like the OE one did. I’m going to proactively replace mine on my 2016 later this year and after a lot of research, I’m going to install an OE one. The newest versions have a different seal design that should hold up better.

Do you have your oil change done for you? Lots of places over torque the filter cap. It only needs to be barely snug.
 
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Mopar said:
I’m going to proactively replace mine on my 2016 later this year and after a lot of research, I’m going to install an OE one.
Click to expand...

If and when mine needs to be replaced this is the path I'll follow as well. I currently have ~78k (2016) and if a OEM replacement gets me to the same mileage (assuming it goes tomorrow) I'll be plenty happy!
 
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yeah oil coolers can be a pain. what kinda failure we talking? like the lines coming loose or did it actually break? i had mine weeping from the fittings when i first bolted it down—wasn't torquing hard enough. also check if your hose clamps are cinched tight enough, sometimes they settle after a few heat cycles.

if the cooler itself cracked tho that's different. what happened when it failed? and where did you source it from? i think i saw some sketchy ones on yittzyoffroad.com that people complained about leaking right outta the box.

also make sure you're running the right fitting size. seen guys grab the wrong adapter and wonder why nothing fits right lol
 
If the aluminum ones had the same seal as the new OE ones, I’d go with aftermarket aluminum. In my case, I run a Baxter adapter and do all my own oil changes. I am careful not to overtighten the oil filter and I lube the filter gasket so it’s easy to remove.
 
yeah oil coolers can be a pain. what kinda failure we talking? like the lines coming loose or did it actually break? i had mine weeping from the fittings when i first bolted it down—wasn't torquing hard enough. also check if your hose clamps are cinched tight enough, sometimes they settle after a few heat cycles.

if the cooler itself cracked tho that's different. what happened when it failed? and where did you source it from? i think i saw some sketchy ones on yittzyoffroad.com that people complained about leaking right outta the box.

also make sure you're running the right fitting size. seen guys grab the wrong adapter and wonder why nothing fits right lol
 
yeah oil coolers can be a pain. what kinda failure we talking? like the lines coming loose or did it actually break? i had mine weeping from the fittings when i first bolted it down—wasn't torquing hard enough. also check if your hose clamps are cinched tight enough, sometimes they settle after a few heat cycles.

if the cooler itself cracked tho that's different. what happened when it failed? and where did you source it from? i think i saw some sketchy ones on yittzyoffroad.com that people complained about leaking right outta the box.

also make sure you're running the right fitting size. seen guys grab the wrong adapter and wonder why nothing fits right lol
 
The failed part of this is the cooler, whether it’s a seal or maybe an over tourqed bolt. It’s leaking down the back side of the motor down to the bell housing and making a mess. My plan is to monitor it for a bit until I can get it looked at again. It was done at a Goodyear shop and so the repair and part is warrantied for 2 yrs. I’m a full time RVer so I have to get to a correct Goodyear shop.
 
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