Hi Everyone.. total newbee here. I looked thru the how to and resources, and did a search for buying guides and inspecting.. and didn't find exactly what I was looking for. I've watched a whole lot of youtube videos about purchasing used JK's, but wondering what are some that you would recommend? I will be purchasing my first wrangler sometime in the next few months and before I get started wanted to have a thorough understanding of the most common problems with the JK's, and what to look for when inspecting them. I'm sure this question get's asked everyday, but if you can point me to a sticky or other resources on this forum, that would be great. It would be especially helpful to have youtube videos that show exactly what to look and listen for as well. I'll be likley looking for a 2012 and up, as I like the extra power the 3.6 gives you. It will be my "fun" car, pretty much have the top down or off all the time and head off to hikes with my wife and golden retrievers. Thanks so much !!
JK Buying / Inspecting Advice
- Thread starter lutey
- Start date
One thing I always do when looking at a used car is to take an OBDII dongle with me. I plug it in prior to the test drive. Because sellers will clear codes. And because some codes don't immediately turn on a warning light. If the seller objects to my plugging in the dongle, we're done. There's no reason to object unless they know there are problems.
So funny.. I was on the JK facebook group, and someone mentioned someone clearing the codes. So the first thing I did was send myself and email reminding myself to get and OBDII tool, that includes the check for emmission readiness. Do you have any recommendations on a good tool?
I always crawl underneath with a flashlight and take a good look around. A few minutes on the underside can tell a lot about a Jeep. My poor daughter got frustrated as we kept going to look at different ones, I crawled underneath came back out and said nope, didn‘t even do a test drive. Of course it was her money, so if she wanted she could have gotten any of them, but glad she listened to me.
I also recommend as close to stock as possible and do the upgrades yourself. Many people just throw stuff on and don’t care how it was done.
I also recommend as close to stock as possible and do the upgrades yourself. Many people just throw stuff on and don’t care how it was done.
See if there is a Carfax on the Jeep to show if there has been any repairs/maintenance done that has been reported. Yes, things can be done to the vehicle that are not reported on the Carfax report, but if the vehicle had regular maintenance done by a dealer it will show up. Also can show how many owners the vehicle has had and recalls.
Most of us here use JScan and one of the dongles that they recommend. I think the most commonly used is
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGB4873/?tag=jkforum-20 which is what I use.
One more question. Jscan has VIN licensing. Can you tell if a user has cleared a code, without actually having a VIN license for the used jeep you're looking at?
I would make a list of what I want on the vehicle. My own No. 1 item was a manual transmission, No. 2, mileage. No. 3, rock sliders. The stock sliders on the Rubicon saved my life when I was t-boned by a pickup and trailer. I walked away with skinned shins, and a bruise from the seat belt. The opposition was mangled. My Rubi was still driveable, but had acquired a bowed frame, and the insurance company totaled it. Look for mileage as low as you can find. You want to check the seals and boots for the suspension and steering components, for cracks, tears, and for any visible evidence of grease loss. Check the engine wiring under the hood. If the wiring is stiff, does it show cracks in the exterior covering. You don't want to discover you need a new wiring harness in the middle of nowhere. Check the engine top and bottom for signs of oil in places it doesn't belong, and which can't simply be due to bad luck adding oil. Check the brake fluid, oil on the dip stick, and if you are looking at an automatic, the transmission fluid if you can. Check the state of the body, frame, and cross members for rust. Open the radiator cap and check to see if the coolant looks right. If it looks like a milk shake, cross the vehicle off your "possible" list. If possible, get the wheels off the ground, all at once or one by one. Give each a shake, pushing and pulling the front and back of the wheel, and the top and bottom. Check the condition of the brakes if you can see them. There should no play or looseness when you yank on the wheels. Check the shocks for signs of leaks. Make sure the transfer case and transmission work properly, high range, low range, 4WD and 2.
With a very few exceptions, you cannot tell if a code has been cleared, regardless of what scan tool you use. Because clearing it means it's gone. I take a scanner when test driving a car because many codes DO NOT set a light unless/until they have repeated X number of times. An intermittent misfire is one example. It will not immediately turn on the CEL, but you can see it on the scanner.
I've never used JScan without a VIN license, but my understanding from a quick application of Google-Fu and a peek at the manual is that you can read codes without a license, but you cannot adjust any settings or modules.
Last edited:
If your not a mechanic. Don't pretend to be one.
Do two things:
1) Run a Carfax. Before even leaving your driveway. Some repairs and maintenance can be left off. But it will tell you how many and where each owner was, any accidents, most repairs and maintenance and how often its been done, if its been totaled, if it has odometer fraud. And many other things. For $30-$40 its worth every penny. First call the person and ask about all of the above. You'll find out real quick from the Carfax whether you can trust them or not. And if they won't give you a plate or vin to run one - run the other way.
2) Pay for a professional inspection. "Would you mind if I paid for an inspection at a local mechanic?". Or hire a mobile mechanic off of Craigslist or similar. To go with you. This will cost around $200. But again, well worth the money. And don't bother with this step until you've seen a clean Carfax.
Have them at least run codes and have a list of items you want looked at. They may have a list. But make a list anyway. Make a list for yourself too. For when your looking at it and when you're driving it. Have the mechanic drive it too.
I have lost close to two grand before for little things like turn signals, emergency lights and other small things. But you want to operate every single thing on the Jeep and confirm it works. Including the 4x4. Also drive it on surface streets and the highway - at speed.
************************************
Between those two steps (and looking it over and driving it yourself) I have uncovered dozens of vehicles that would have been a real problem. While shopping for myself, wife, son, sisters, mother etc.
The Carfax has revolutionized how one looks for a used car. The days of guessing and trying to "read" if a seller is truthful are over. Often times every single little mom and pop place they ever had it worked on will show up on a Carfax. It is full of essential information.
And what isn't uncovered in a Carfax will show up on a legitimate inspection. It will also give you ammunition to negotiate with. Whatever repairs may be needed can be taken off the top. Depending on how fair the asking price is.
If you can afford it try to find a one or two owner car with no negative records on the Carfax. That was regularly serviced. If it doesn't come up on the Carfax ask for receipts. Any well kept car will have an owner that keeps receipts.
Lastly, try to never buy from a used car lot. You're just paying an extra middleman fee. And their job literally is to rip you off. Lawyers and used car salesmen - I'd take advice from my worst enemy before I trusted them. And there is a reason bluebook shows a higher price for dealer price than private party.
You want a one owner car. From some retired, anal retentive, military guy, with OCD. Who is overly paranoid about maintenance. Lmao!
Good luck!
Do two things:
1) Run a Carfax. Before even leaving your driveway. Some repairs and maintenance can be left off. But it will tell you how many and where each owner was, any accidents, most repairs and maintenance and how often its been done, if its been totaled, if it has odometer fraud. And many other things. For $30-$40 its worth every penny. First call the person and ask about all of the above. You'll find out real quick from the Carfax whether you can trust them or not. And if they won't give you a plate or vin to run one - run the other way.
2) Pay for a professional inspection. "Would you mind if I paid for an inspection at a local mechanic?". Or hire a mobile mechanic off of Craigslist or similar. To go with you. This will cost around $200. But again, well worth the money. And don't bother with this step until you've seen a clean Carfax.
Have them at least run codes and have a list of items you want looked at. They may have a list. But make a list anyway. Make a list for yourself too. For when your looking at it and when you're driving it. Have the mechanic drive it too.
I have lost close to two grand before for little things like turn signals, emergency lights and other small things. But you want to operate every single thing on the Jeep and confirm it works. Including the 4x4. Also drive it on surface streets and the highway - at speed.
************************************
Between those two steps (and looking it over and driving it yourself) I have uncovered dozens of vehicles that would have been a real problem. While shopping for myself, wife, son, sisters, mother etc.
The Carfax has revolutionized how one looks for a used car. The days of guessing and trying to "read" if a seller is truthful are over. Often times every single little mom and pop place they ever had it worked on will show up on a Carfax. It is full of essential information.
And what isn't uncovered in a Carfax will show up on a legitimate inspection. It will also give you ammunition to negotiate with. Whatever repairs may be needed can be taken off the top. Depending on how fair the asking price is.
If you can afford it try to find a one or two owner car with no negative records on the Carfax. That was regularly serviced. If it doesn't come up on the Carfax ask for receipts. Any well kept car will have an owner that keeps receipts.
Lastly, try to never buy from a used car lot. You're just paying an extra middleman fee. And their job literally is to rip you off. Lawyers and used car salesmen - I'd take advice from my worst enemy before I trusted them. And there is a reason bluebook shows a higher price for dealer price than private party.
You want a one owner car. From some retired, anal retentive, military guy, with OCD. Who is overly paranoid about maintenance. Lmao!
Good luck!Thanks so much !! Do you know if Jscan can show the temperature of the engine/coolant? with or without a license?
Such great advice. Thanks so much !!If your not a mechanic. Don't pretend to be one.
Do two things:
1) Run a Carfax. Before even leaving your driveway. Some repairs and maintenance can be left off. But it will tell you how many and where each owner was, any accidents, most repairs and maintenance and how often its been done, if its been totaled, if it has odometer fraud. And many other things. For $30-$40 its worth every penny. First call the person and ask about all of the above. You'll find out real quick from the Carfax whether you can trust them or not. And if they won't give you a plate or vin to run one - run the other way.
2) Pay for a professional inspection. "Would you mind if I paid for an inspection at a local mechanic?". Or hire a mobile mechanic off of Craigslist or similar. To go with you. This will cost around $200. But again, well worth the money. And don't bother with this step until you've seen a clean Carfax.
Have them at least run codes and have a list of items you want looked at. They may have a list. But make a list anyway. Make a list for yourself too. For when your looking at it and when you're driving it. Have the mechanic drive it too.
I have lost close to two grand before for little things like turn signals, emergency lights and other small things. But you want to operate every single thing on the Jeep and confirm it works. Including the 4x4. Also drive it on surface streets and the highway - at speed.
************************************
Between those two steps (and looking it over and driving it yourself) I have uncovered dozens of vehicles that would have been a real problem. While shopping for myself, wife, son, sisters, mother etc.
The Carfax has revolutionized how one looks for a used car. The days of guessing and trying to "read" if a seller is truthful are over. Often times every single little mom and pop place they ever had it worked on will show up on a Carfax. It is full of essential information.
And what isn't uncovered in a Carfax will show up on a legitimate inspection. It will also give you ammunition to negotiate with. Whatever repairs may be needed can be taken off the top. Depending on how fair the asking price is.
If you can afford it try to find a one or two owner car with no negative records on the Carfax. That was regularly serviced. If it doesn't come up on the Carfax ask for receipts. Any well kept car will have an owner that keeps receipts.
Lastly, try to never buy from a used car lot. You're just paying an extra middleman fee. And their job literally is to rip you off. Lawyers and used car salesmen - I'd take advice from my worst enemy before I trusted them. And there is a reason bluebook shows a higher price for dealer price than private party.
You want a one owner car. From some retired, anal retentive, military guy, with OCD. Who is overly paranoid about maintenance. Lmao!