Heated windshield washer fluid

Jeepguy1 said:
-70 after the wind chill perhaps....which is REALLY COLD !!!!
I’ve worked in the Arctic, and -55 is about as cold as you’ll see before the wind chill is calculated.
It was -82 in Saskatoon one January, but that was -47+ the windchill factor.

It takes a pretty good combination of well timed events to get an engine to start in extreme conditions like described above, and just because there is fire in the cylinders, doesn’t mean you are going anywhere....
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One thing about the NWT, when it dips to -70F which is -57C, there is virtually no wind. Incredibly peaceful. But it was still colder than -45C since both Canadian North and First Air flights were grounded for a few days. Canadian North jets were certified to -40C, First Air to -45C, if you came to Yellowknife on business..... you got an extended northern experience.

And yes, you need a system to start a car anytime it dips below -40. I sold my FourRunner since EFI does not understand that cold temperature. Unplugged EFI would just flood the engine. And when EFI floods with a fuel pump putting out at least 85psi you must change the oil. -40, change the oil you need a shop. And in the NWT it'll cost double what an oil change down south costs so I sold it and bought a 4.2L YJ with a carb. Every morning, pull the air cleaner, dump in some raw gas, pump the pedal like crazy, turn the key. It started instantly every time and by the time I had the air cleaner back on and hood closed the tappets had quit clicking and the oil pressure was reaching the head. I kept a pickle jar of gas behind the brake booster.

We lived in the NWT as snow mobiles were introducing 4 stroke engines. A dozen of us would spend the night at a cabin, in the morning the guys with 2 strokes, pump the primer, close the choke, starts every time on the second pull. The guys with those fancy 4 strokes had to plug into the generator for an hour to start them.
 
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Block heaters heat the block so mostly just the oil gets warmed. Even if the water warms up a little as a side effect, its not circulating so it wouldn't heat the radiator or hoses. I think I'd suggest a heat blanket around the washer fluid res and tie it in with a 120v splitter to the engine block when you plug it in. That still doesn't take care of your washer hoses but I reckon you could run a small heat tape along the hose and tape it all up.
 
Freedombyforce said:
Block heaters heat the block so mostly just the oil gets warmed. Even if the water warms up a little as a side effect, its not circulating so it wouldn't heat the radiator or hoses. I think I'd suggest a heat blanket around the washer fluid res and tie it in with a 120v splitter to the engine block when you plug it in. That still doesn't take care of your washer hoses but I reckon you could run a small heat tape along the hose and tape it all up.
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An engine block heater is a sealed electric element (usually about 1200 watts) that replaces a frost plug in the side of the engines water jacket.
It heats the coolant in that area, and through capillary action, heats the metal in the block and warms the coolant. It doesn’t create enough heat that your heater will blow warm air upon start, just enough to help your engine crank easier.
The oil doesn’t receive a measurable amount of heat with this type of heater.

There are oil pan heaters that will attach magnetically to the bottom of your pan (if it’s ferrous) and operate on 120V.(1500 watt) as well

You can buy coolant circulating heaters that fit in your lower rad hose, and generate a lot more heat, and will actually open your thermostat but cost a LOT more electricity too (1000-2500 watts)

I hope this clearifys the confusion
 
Jeepguy1 said:
An engine block heater is a sealed electric element (usually about 1200 watts) that replaces a frost plug in the side of the engines water jacket.
It heats the coolant in that area, and through capillary action, heats the metal in the block and warms the coolant. It doesn’t create enough heat that your heater will blow warm air upon start, just enough to help your engine crank easier.
The oil doesn’t receive a measurable amount of heat with this type of heater.

There are oil pan heaters that will attach magnetically to the bottom of your pan (if it’s ferrous) and operate on 120V.(1500 watt) as well

You can buy coolant circulating heaters that fit in your lower rad hose, and generate a lot more heat, and will actually open your thermostat but cost a LOT more electricity too (1000-2500 watts)

I hope this clearifys the confusion
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I think the topic from NY-JK is that he wants to heat his windshield wiper fluid and now ya'll talking about heating the coolant, the engine block and the oil pan. You're going tangent again jeepguy! :)
 
Jeepguy1 said:
An engine block heater is a sealed electric element (usually about 1200 watts) that replaces a frost plug in the side of the engines water jacket.
It heats the coolant in that area, and through capillary action, heats the metal in the block and warms the coolant. It doesn’t create enough heat that your heater will blow warm air upon start, just enough to help your engine crank easier.
The oil doesn’t receive a measurable amount of heat with this type of heater.

There are oil pan heaters that will attach magnetically to the bottom of your pan (if it’s ferrous) and operate on 120V.(1500 watt) as well

You can buy coolant circulating heaters that fit in your lower rad hose, and generate a lot more heat, and will actually open your thermostat but cost a LOT more electricity too (1000-2500 watts)

I hope this clearifys the confusion
Click to expand...


A JK's block heater doesn't go into the water jacket. It simply sits in a hole on the outside of the block.
 
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