I drained /filled the coolant a couple weekends ago. In order to minimize the time and mess, I only drained the radiator and the lower radiator hose. Not too difficult to remove the air dam and get to the radiator stopcock, and remove the airbox to remove the lower radiator hose. Since there was no rust or particulates in the old coolant I decided not to flush the system. I got out almost 8 qts which was satisfactory, and minimal spillage.
Generational JKUR
- Thread starter TRevs
- Start date
Not me personally but I've seen many similar efforts on Youtube, Facebook, and various other Jeep Forums... some people even remove the end caps to allow for easier washing out. They sell long metal brushes that have a long handle/stick that can be chucked in a drill. I bet that would work well to scrub the inside out and get the majority of the flakes out. This would let the Eastwood coating to coat better...
I ran a square aluminum rod down a few times, and pushed a wet cloth down with a pvc pipe a few times. I looked in with a cheap endoscope and I think i got most of the flakes. I’ll look into the brush; it’s difficult to get the top part where it gets narrow, but that has the least rust because it is above the moisture.
I ordered a Teraflex kit and my kid wants bigger tires, so I decided to trim a bit off the rear end of the rock rails as some kits recommend. Took off about 7/8” and drilled a few new drainage holes. Cleaned up more rust as well so they should look pretty nice when they’re done.
I finished the rock rail rehab. The Eastwood internal frame coating seems pretty effective but was messy. I’m pretty happy with the results and hopefully they can last five or 10 years.
I’m finally getting some time to start the lift kit. I’m sure this is going to take me awhile so I’ll post updates when I can.
I got the front disassembled; it wasn’t too bad. The hardest part to remove was not the 21mm bolts on the control arms, nor the tapered stud on the drag link, but the small bolts on the driveshaft to pinion yoke. There was a ton of blue thread locker on them.
I’m doing a bit of cleanup while it’s apart; there is a ton of dirt packed into the top of the jounce bumper tubes. I’m surprised it is just left open like that. There’s a little rust but could have been much worse.
I’m doing a bit of cleanup while it’s apart; there is a ton of dirt packed into the top of the jounce bumper tubes. I’m surprised it is just left open like that. There’s a little rust but could have been much worse.
The front springs are in; so far I’ve been impressed with the organization and instructions of the Teraflex kit. The components seem good quality. Time will tell.
So the front end is pretty much done. Jeep is on the ground just needing to final torque the LCAs before I can start the rear.
Also, I don’t really like the Teraflex brake line bracket. The lines just stick out there, and while it look like they clear everything from steering lock to lock, it just doesn’t seem as protected as the OEM bracket under the spring perches. I’ll have to look into extended brake lines.
Also the front driveshaft interferes way more with the exhaust crossover then i expected. I had to jack the axle up 4-5 inches just to reconnect the drive shaft to the yoke. Not to mention the rzeppa at the T-case is near its maximum downward deflection at rest. It would take very little downward movement of the axle to cause something very bad.
I’m calling Tom Wood’s tomorrow, but even then I’m not sure there won’t be interference with downtravel.
Does anyone know the torque spec for the drag link at the steering knuckle?
Also, I don’t really like the Teraflex brake line bracket. The lines just stick out there, and while it look like they clear everything from steering lock to lock, it just doesn’t seem as protected as the OEM bracket under the spring perches. I’ll have to look into extended brake lines.
Also the front driveshaft interferes way more with the exhaust crossover then i expected. I had to jack the axle up 4-5 inches just to reconnect the drive shaft to the yoke. Not to mention the rzeppa at the T-case is near its maximum downward deflection at rest. It would take very little downward movement of the axle to cause something very bad.
I’m calling Tom Wood’s tomorrow, but even then I’m not sure there won’t be interference with downtravel.
Does anyone know the torque spec for the drag link at the steering knuckle?
https://metalcloak.com/blog/jeep-wr...GE2OnK9mJMAePYLbYl1TVeY2ogCriNNe3UPu6lZExrR8G
I crossed referenced these with the FSM from 2008 and it was accurate... I have this printed and laminated and kept in the garage.
