Emissions not reporting

Righteous_load

Righteous_load

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Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
5
Location
New York
Hey, I tried searching for wiring diagrams and couldn't find it. Anyone have a link or something. I'm looking for the emissions testing circuitry or the obd2 wiring diagram. my jeep is not reporting emissions so I'm failing state inspection. I have the insane audio JK2001 radio and it allows me to see my emissions Dtc. This morning all were green. Went to dealership they plugged in their tester and it's not reporting. checked my radio and half are "not complete". When it showed that yesterday, dealership suggested unplugging the battery and touching the positive and negative terminals to each other for a few minutes, than drive it. When I did that, emissions were coming online. Now its hung up again.
 
i think you need to do a drive cycle:
seems like a lot but you can do that in a day. i had to do that on my TJ after the wife drained the battery and i had a smog inspection the week after.... -_-


During all sections of the drive trace make sure your gas tank is between 1/4 to 3/4 full of gas; never below or above the 1/4-3/4 marks.
Catalyst Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- No DTCs present.
- Fuel level is between 15% and 85% full.
- ECT above 70º F.
- Engine must have run at least 90 seconds
- Engine between 1,350 & 1,900 rpm.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach normal engine operating temperature and closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 30 & 45 mph for 2 minutes.
EGR System Monitor Drive Trace - Vacuum controlled
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
DrivingProcedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach normal engine operating temperature and closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 8 minutes.
EGR System Monitor Drive Trace - Electronic
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- MAP must be between 0-60 KPa.
- Engine speed between 500-850 rpm.
- ECT is above 180º F (90º C).
- No misfire pending or matured fault should be present.
- A/C clutch, PS Switch and Cooling fans do not change state (turn off).
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five (5) minutes (to reach normal engine temps and get in to closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 2 minutes.
3) Idle vehicle for three (3) minutes.
Evaporative System Monitor Drive Trace
Trace 1: Standard Type
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- No Evaporative DTCs present.
- Fuel level is between ½ and full.
(Note: monitor may still run with tank fill between 15% and 85%).
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 30 and 45 mph for 2 minutes.
Trace 2: Leak Detection Pump
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- No Evaporative DTCs present.
- Fuel level is between 30 & 85 % full.
Driving Procedure
1) Cold soak vehicle, start and idle vehicle for 4 minutes.
2) Drive in-town (stop and go) for 5 minutes, using smooth acceleration and deceleration.
3) Stop and idle vehicle for 4 minutes.
O2 Sensor Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed above 25 mph for 2 minutes.
3) Stop and idle for 30 seconds.
4) Smoothly accelerate to a speed between 30 and 40 mph.
5) Repeat steps 3 & 4 five (5) times.
O2 Sensor Heater Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Shut engine off and leave vehicle off for ten minutes.
 
So I'll add some more information. Stock the jeep had a physical key and stock radio and stock instrument cluster. I've upgraded to a digital cluster, insane audio radio, and a push to start system that plugs into the immobilizer. The radio came with a bluetooth dongle that plugs into the obdll port and relays information to the radio. Today I checked to see if I'd get different readings depending on how the jeep starts, physical key or button. I get differing readings each time. Some times I'm missing one DTC, sometimes 5. Now not sure if this is related or not but I did drain the battery about 6 months back. Found my cb radio fuse popped and that's why. Unfortunately I had already bought a second battery and I'm going to keep both batteries. But after the battery replacement, my transmission was shifting higher, and had issues shifting anytime above 3rd. After I disconnected the battery and grounded out the terminals and reconnected everything, transmission has been shifting perfectly. like I said not sure if it helps, but it seems like a computer somewhere is getting hung up or something.
 
I think you have a bad ground somewhere, i would track all the cables and be sure everything is grounded properly first. after that it's over my skillset :/
 
It sounds like it may indeed be a bad ground or wiring issue somewhere. Those can be very, very tricky to find. I'd start by really inspecting the wiring harness thoroughly.
 
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There is something that s bothering me, I just reread your post and you're stating the battery drained 6 months ago because your cb's fuse 'popped.
I don't see how that would drain the battery, if the fuse popped, it broke the circuit, as it's supposed to, because something overloaded its circuit. The battery couldn't have drained because of that. So I would actually start with how this radio got wired. I think your problem might be older than you think. Is the radio wired directly to the battery? Is the radio grounded? Is the antenna grounded properly..etc..

I might be wrong, but something seems off.

Be careful though, bad ground can lead to bad damages, if you can't find it take it to a shop asap.
 
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theRealCrazy said:
There is something that s bothering me, I just reread your post and you're stating the battery drained 6 months ago because your cb's fuse 'popped.
I don't see how that would drain the battery, if the fuse popped, it broke the circuit, as it's supposed to, because something overloaded its circuit. The battery couldn't have drained because of that. So I would actually start with how this radio got wired. I think your problem might be older than you think. Is the radio wired directly to the battery? Is the radio grounded? Is the antenna grounded properly..etc..

I might be wrong, but something seems off.

Be careful though, bad ground can lead to bad damages, if you can't find it take it to a shop asap.
Click to expand...


That's what I thought too until I realized the cb radio is plugged into my fuse box on a always hot empty spot. My thinking is the wire stayed hot after the fuse popped and was touching the frame. Yes it's a stretch but I haven't lost power since the fuse (and radio cause I for some reason thought that was the problem first) have been replaced.
 
Well third times lucky I guess. It passed officially. the only difference this time was the obdll plug was off its housing and just slightly dangling. mechanic also said that bluetooth dongles plugged into the obdll port have been known to cause issues with the ecu and reporting. Not sure how true that is because I've never looked into it. I will say though, after removing the plug from the housing, I've gotten consistent readings on my scanner. I'm going to inspect the wires, pins, and plug so see if there's anything there. Thank you all for the help! I do appreciate it
 
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theRealCrazy said:
Wow, really happy that was all it was!!
I use Bluetooth dongles in all my jeeps, so if something like that happens I'll know where to look as well, thanks for sharing the solve
Click to expand...
No problemo. Its aggravating when you find a forum post that has the same problems as you and there's no "hey this is what it was" post to help.
 
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theRealCrazy said:
i think you need to do a drive cycle:
seems like a lot but you can do that in a day. i had to do that on my TJ after the wife drained the battery and i had a smog inspection the week after.... -_-


During all sections of the drive trace make sure your gas tank is between 1/4 to 3/4 full of gas; never below or above the 1/4-3/4 marks.
Catalyst Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- No DTCs present.
- Fuel level is between 15% and 85% full.
- ECT above 70º F.
- Engine must have run at least 90 seconds
- Engine between 1,350 & 1,900 rpm.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach normal engine operating temperature and closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 30 & 45 mph for 2 minutes.
EGR System Monitor Drive Trace - Vacuum controlled
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
DrivingProcedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach normal engine operating temperature and closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 8 minutes.
EGR System Monitor Drive Trace - Electronic
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- MAP must be between 0-60 KPa.
- Engine speed between 500-850 rpm.
- ECT is above 180º F (90º C).
- No misfire pending or matured fault should be present.
- A/C clutch, PS Switch and Cooling fans do not change state (turn off).
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five (5) minutes (to reach normal engine temps and get in to closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 2 minutes.
3) Idle vehicle for three (3) minutes.
Evaporative System Monitor Drive Trace
Trace 1: Standard Type
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- No Evaporative DTCs present.
- Fuel level is between ½ and full.
(Note: monitor may still run with tank fill between 15% and 85%).
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 30 and 45 mph for 2 minutes.
Trace 2: Leak Detection Pump
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- No Evaporative DTCs present.
- Fuel level is between 30 & 85 % full.
Driving Procedure
1) Cold soak vehicle, start and idle vehicle for 4 minutes.
2) Drive in-town (stop and go) for 5 minutes, using smooth acceleration and deceleration.
3) Stop and idle vehicle for 4 minutes.
O2 Sensor Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed above 25 mph for 2 minutes.
3) Stop and idle for 30 seconds.
4) Smoothly accelerate to a speed between 30 and 40 mph.
5) Repeat steps 3 & 4 five (5) times.
O2 Sensor Heater Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Shut engine off and leave vehicle off for ten minutes.
Click to expand...

Hello! I’m wondering if there are any other recommendations I can try for my 2013 Jeep Wrangler beyond the drive cycle to get the emissions monitors ready? No matter how many times I follow the drive cycle referenced, I cannot get the Cat and O2 ready. I’ve replaced the battery, driven over 300 miles, and have had no luck. I just bought it a month ago and I’m getting worried as my temporary registration is about to expire.

I will try unhooking the battery and connecting the negative and positive battery terminal wires, and starting fresh.

Any other ideas?

Many Thanks,
David
 
bpw143 said:
Hello! I’m wondering if there are any other recommendations I can try for my 2013 Jeep Wrangler beyond the drive cycle to get the emissions monitors ready? No matter how many times I follow the drive cycle referenced, I cannot get the Cat and O2 ready. I’ve replaced the battery, driven over 300 miles, and have had no luck. I just bought it a month ago and I’m getting worried as my temporary registration is about to expire.

I will try unhooking the battery and connecting the negative and positive battery terminal wires, and starting fresh.

Any other ideas?

Many Thanks,
David
Click to expand...
I don't have an answer for you. Sorry . I noticed OP is in New York.
Your in Arizona . So does every state require emission testing on a
regular basis?
We don't have that in western Canada . Just curious . THX
 
Speartip said:
I don't have an answer for you. Sorry . I noticed OP is in New York.
Your in Arizona . So does every state require emission testing on a
regular basis?
We don't have that in western Canada . Just curious . THX
Click to expand...

Hello! Pretty much every State does require emissions every 1-2 years after a vehicle is 4-5 years old (give or take). Though my understanding is that some States are more strict than others. For example, California is apparently a nightmare to deal with and many vehicles that are fine in other States wouldn’t pass inspection there (madness!).

In my case, ironically Arizona allows for one monitor to not be ready and the emissions test can still be passed, but not two (I have two!).

Hoping all is well in Canada. 😃
 
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Ok , didn’t know that . So more strict on emissions than we are . Oh yeah , California , very strict . Just about every ad I’ve ever seen involving an engine part reads “ may not pass California emissions laws “ something like that .
Thanks for the intel
Hope you fig out issue with your Jeep .
 
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Door is always open here brother! I got some blackberry,peach, cinnamon apple pie, and something we call pink panty-dropper for the ladies. Guaranteed to cure what ails ya!
 
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Righteous_load said:
So I'll add some more information. Stock the jeep had a physical key and stock radio and stock instrument cluster. I've upgraded to a digital cluster, insane audio radio, and a push to start system that plugs into the immobilizer. The radio came with a bluetooth dongle that plugs into the obdll port and relays information to the radio. Today I checked to see if I'd get different readings depending on how the jeep starts, physical key or button. I get differing readings each time. Some times I'm missing one DTC, sometimes 5. Now not sure if this is related or not but I did drain the battery about 6 months back. Found my cb radio fuse popped and that's why. Unfortunately I had already bought a second battery and I'm going to keep both batteries. But after the battery replacement, my transmission was shifting higher, and had issues shifting anytime above 3rd. After I disconnected the battery and grounded out the terminals and reconnected everything, transmission has been shifting perfectly. like I said not sure if it helps, but it seems like a computer somewhere is getting hung up or something.
Click to expand...
bpw143 said:
Hello! Pretty much every State does require emissions every 1-2 years after a vehicle is 4-5 years old (give or take). Though my understanding is that some States are more strict than others. For example, California is apparently a nightmare to deal with and many vehicles that are fine in other States wouldn’t pass inspection there (madness!).

In my case, ironically Arizona allows for one monitor to not be ready and the emissions test can still be passed, but not two (I have two!).

Hoping all is well in Canada. 😃
Click to expand...
California isn't particularly difficult. The test looks at outputs of a couple of gases (CO, and NO2 - and maybe a sulfur compound???) and whether you are leaking gas fumes from the gas tank (new gas cap indicated). CO is an indication of incomplete combustion, so you don't want any in your exhaust anyway. Tests are run at various engine out put levels and that's it. Most states test pretty much the same. The nuisance aspect in California is that if the vehicle fails, the test facility can't repair it most of the time, though some dealers can do both. I'm told that is a "consumer protection." If the vehicle was made in or before 1975 it doesn't need an inspection. Gasoline is a bigger problem than testing because there's a bureaucratic worship of ethanol as an additive, and engines don't like it all that much, and gas prices jump around seasonally for no really good reason.
 
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