Dead battery issue

area51-s4

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Joined
Jul 25, 2023
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Ok yea, plenty of threads and info on battery issues to research. I understand all the techniques to test for battery drain and bad starter, I just havent yet found a similar situation as mine so thats why im posting.

Basically, my battery is dieing a lot more often now, but each time it was within 1 to 3 minutes after JUST driving (say if i was just getting gas or grabbing ciggs and had the car off a minute or two). I try and start car, the dashlights come on for a sec, i hear a click, then everything goes black / fully dead. Any other tries to start and zero power. Nothing.

I have a portable jumper box which has been my saving grace each time. But the issue happens so damn fast. It seemingly occurs more often if its very humid out or if it just rained or is raining.

Could an electrical short (possibly occuring during rain) cause this manner of dead battery? I do have an echomaster rear view camera thats glitching out between mirror images and i dont know if that could cause this manner of dead battery so quick.

So i guess my question is can an electrical short from bad wiring cause a dead battery so damn quick?

Thanksss

PS. I have the yellowtop battery and its not even 3 months old
 
When it's running check the battery's volts to see what it's charging at.

Damp or humid weather can cause problems with dirty connections.
 
When it's running check the battery's volts to see what it's charging at.

Damp or humid weather can cause problems with dirty connections.
Can I rely on what my stinger radio says the current volts are on the info gauges? Ive watched this after jumping and the battery will be about 13.9v, and within several minutes its up to 14.1 / 14.2

Oh yea i have a gps module for security. Car off and the app telling me 12.6v right now. Last drove it yesterday

Edit; half the time i get dead battery after just driving, the app will notify powerloss after trying to start car with no luck
 
Can I rely on what my stinger radio says the current volts are on the info gauges? Ive watched this after jumping and the battery will be about 13.9v, and within several minutes its up to 14.1 / 14.2



You need to put the Volt Meters probes on the battery terminals not on the clamps. That way your getting battery volts.
 
Replace the clamps.
It doesn't matter what you change them to; using zip ties and/or drilling a hole through the post and using a drywall screw through the cable would be better than the factory clamps.
 
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Replace the clamps.
It doesn't matter what you change them to; using zip ties and/or drilling a hole through the post and using a drywall screw through the cable would be better than the factory clamps.
ANYTHING is better!
 
Bad idea. They're notoriously crap. I (and I think a few others here) swapped to these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GLVT5H2/?tag=jkforum-20
There are an abundance of other options that are better than the ones Jeep chose. In fact, I think you'd be hard pressed to find worse.
Lol thats funny cuz i ordered these clamps two months ago n havent put em on yet. Figured its so much easier to use but didnt know the OEM one are shit.
 
Ok so im gonna replace the clamps today or tomorrow. I have another question tho. When ive jumped the battery i usually clamp the jump box clamps to the jeep oem clamps around the battery. If the OEM clamps are the issue, wouldnt the jump box fail to help start the car in that scenario?
 
Depends.
The way the factory clamps grip the battery posts is the issue.
You’ll see when you remove them that the post(s) now probably have a groove around them.
This is where the clamp secured to the post, but vibration causes the clamp to essentially spin on the post, effectively reducing the contact area between them.
 
Depends.
The way the factory clamps grip the battery posts is the issue.
You’ll see when you remove them that the post(s) now probably have a groove around them.
This is where the clamp secured to the post, but vibration causes the clamp to essentially spin on the post, effectively reducing the contact area between them.
I see. Yea this makes sense now.
 
ANYTHING is better!
Even this would be an improvement
IMG_4461.jpeg
 
Sounds to me like a bad battery not holding a charge. If you start it with the jump box it will run off the alternator until you shut it off again. as others have said, once you turn it off, after driving awhile, immediately check the battery voltage, (with a proper multimeter), on the battery posts. Not the clamps, but the posts.
 
Last edited:
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Not to be argumentative, but it sounds more to me like a battery that isn't charging because of the shitty factory terminals making poor contact to the battery post(s).
 
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