Coolant leak and flushing radiator questions

[14JKALTITUDE]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DP43ZC/?tag=jkforum-20

"refilled with fresh OAT coolant (conforming to MS-12106)," so this is mopar and is conforming. also i was told not to use premix but i just don't see why not. this is mopar fluid with the label of ms-12106

so i think with 39k miles i'll just refill instead of flushing

side note, the 13 and 14s had a tbs on the oil pressure sending sensor in the back of the block (awesome design). not somehting i wanted to tackle. soooooo there is no reason why the dealership would have needed to rip the radiator and front end apart right? im just afraid if they did, some clown might have put HOAT in there by mistake to refill but i don't think there is a chance they needed to take the radiator off.

 

[14JKALTITUDE]

also burping the system. just fill up, run the engine for 5-10 with the HEAT ON and WITH CAP OFF so the thermo will pop open and listen for burping sounds and fill as needed until burping sound stops? correct?

 

[BLACKJKU]

also burping the system. just fill up, run the engine for 5-10 with the HEAT ON and WITH CAP OFF so the thermo will pop open and listen for burping sounds and fill as needed until burping sound stops? correct?

Sometimes it works better if you jack the front up some, it helps speed the air bubble to the radiator.

 

[Dirty Dog]

39K miles. I'm thinking just drain whatever and re fill up.

That doesn't need flushed, most likely. Unless you did something like run it with tap water for a chunk of those miles.

 

[Duster]

No, the seam is leaking on the right drivers side, i posted a photo, that is no overflow tank. also i know the correct one, OAT.

We recommend you use MOPAR® Antifreeze/
Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT
(Organic Additive Technology). for 2014s

There you go then. Thanks for letting us know.

 

[14JKALTITUDE]

I want to thank everyone who replied to my questions. Just an update

I followed these instructions for the swap

I ordered this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/?tag=jkforum-20

I ordered 5 bottles of this, OAT, 2014 Wrangler

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017DP43ZC/?tag=jkforum-20

You need this 8mm with the flex head along with your standard rachet and sockets

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FB33BY3/?tag=jkforum-20

One thing I want to note is looks like the Jeeps in England have key hood lock and gas cap lock that uses your standard OEM key, so I bought those and it was an easy install

Two things I did. The overflow tank snaps into the fan shroud top and bottom and has a plastic grommet. Trashed the grommet, didn't need it, weight savings? .00000001 micro pounds

The side wiring that clips into the radiator, trashed that as when you snap the connector from the fan shroud and clip that in place it holds it securely (only did that because it was hard getting the side wiring grommet back in

I added a clamp for the nipple by the rad cap, didn't have one in the beginning and was loose, easy fix

These side flap that go over the rad sides. What a pain to get back in with the rad. So what I did was install the radiator loose and calmly shove the flaps back in. And one other important thing. When you try to screw the cool, compressor, etc back with those flaps behind it, it's hard to get those holes to line up and you can cross thread at an angle by mistake and those holes are plastic in the side of the radiator SO what i did was snip the holes BIGGER with some clippers, made life easier getting those bolts back in esp the lower drivers side.

The coolant came out clean but just to keep the heater core clean I am adding this

https://www.mishimoto.com/jeep-wrangler-2012-2018-coolant-filter-kit.html

The intake and throttle body looked clean but I am adding this

https://www.mishimoto.com/jeep-wrangler-jk-baffled-oil-catch-can-2012-2018.html

And adding this (I know this isn't the correct size, I'll find that out later

https://www.mishimoto.com/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m18-x-1-5-black.html

Ok so no one makes this mistake

https://www.mishimoto.com/jeep-wrangler-jk-replacement-radiator-07-18.html

• Direct fit for the 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK with manual and automatic transmission (INCORRECT, DOES NOT FIT AUTOS)

This is what I ordered

https://www.omixparts.com/jeep-radiator/2014/jeep/wrangler

DISREGARD THE DESCRIPTION, THIS FITS ALL MANUAL, AUTO 07-2018 WRANGLERS. Funny thing is the price just jumped up today. Omix from what I understand is an OEM supplier.

I ordered this

https://www.omixparts.com/jeep-thermostat-housing/2014/jeep/wrangler

The thermo housing definitely looks like it's been upgraded from the previous version (again OEM supplier). I replaced it because I had a hair line crack that you could barely see.

Cost for rad and thermo $266.10 (223.10 , 21.10 and shipping), i get parts at cost

So one photo I didn't take, the bushing on the sides that fit into the body to hold it into place. I think I know why my radiator finally leaked, the stress on the drivers side. The rubber bushing was NOT in the hole on the drivers side, it never did fit, looks like from the factory, the hole in the frame is too small so looks like they just smashed that thing in and bolted it down creating stress on the drivers side seam. The new ones did not fit either, So I took the pass side from the old leaky one and used that and it fit fine.

this
https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-radiator-isolator-52079884aa, the part that goes into the hole was not really in the hole, didn't fit, was smashed in and when i pulled was distorted

pulling out the old rad was a pain, you gotta gently work it, i pulled the pass side out back the angled it up so the right drivers side would clear the metal pipe hosing.

the ac condensor is a b!tch when installing the new rad so it will help to have someone kinda jiggle it when installing the new rad.

any ??? please ask

 

[Duster]

Thanks for the update. An impressive job.

 

[14JKALTITUDE]

Thanks for the update. An impressive job.

yeah well i gotta do it again. at least now i know how to do it as it took me 15 minutes to rip everything apart.

its was spewing fluid all over the side of my air box, thank good ness i was running a closed box or it wouldve sucked all the fluid in. the pic shows the dried coolant but it spewed out fast and quick, not misty but enough to drench that whole area. im pissed lol.

found out they pre drill holes and then fill them in. this obviously by the photo is not filled in correctly.

 

[14JKALTITUDE]

WELP ANOTHER UPDATE. I'm on my third Omix radiator. Let's say these are total junk and I highly do not recommend. They shipped my third one and received it, same blow hole issue AND LOOK AT THIS. No packaging damage, this is their QC.

First one, shipped and the rad fan support bracket was broken off, second one, well you see in this post, and third one, just explained it here. Not risking another one coming in on a Friday night only to have to wait until Monday to get it resolved.

So now I am going to order this

CSF 3592

100% leak tested before leaving factory at 150% of operating pressure