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Thanks. That's certainly something to consider. And it would be easier to replace the whole assembly rather than futz with just the ends.

OP, are you planning to get a secondary power source or just run it from the main battery while tailgating? I bought a small jackery box to use my laptop in remote locations and I love it. The mid-range models have a 12V cigarette jack so you can run a mini-fridge. It will add to the cost of the...

Has anyone tried to remove the passenger-side steering tie rod end from the shaft? I read on another forum that the right-side tie rod end is "crimped" and cannot be removed from the shaft. However, I just spoke with Extreme Terrain and they put me on these...

The damage has already been done. Stop living in the past. "Chunky-style" gear oil is a stretch; the gear oil was changed 8 days ago.

Edit: On the other hand, I've only driven about 100 miles since I changed the gear oil. Maybe I should just re-use the royal purple I just put in, despite the risk of contamination.

Anyone know if Lucas gear oil has LSD additive pre-mixed? Or do I need to add it? Lucas 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil 1 Quart https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/gear-oil/p/lucas-75w-90-synthetic-gear-oil-1-quart/612866_0_0 The label says it contains a "premium additive" but it doesn't...

Thanks for the suggestion. Did you need a special press to get those fitted? Front diff fluid had water in it and I speculate that it came from the axle seal since my breather tube was mounted fine. Did lots of water crossings and mud bogs over the winter before I realized I had a seal leak.

Yeah, I'm pretty bummed to have to rebuild the rear this early. The front axle seals (interior of the front differential) are leaking, too. I didn't expect to have to pull both diffs before 100k. :rolleyes:

Yes, per the factory build sheet, I have a "Next Gen Dana 44 HD Rear Axle" with the Limited Slip Differential.

Changed the differential fluid at 82,000 miles. I've only had the JKU for about 10,000 miles. Front - Milkshake and likely water contaminated. Looks like royal purple gear oil was used. Replaced with RP gear oil. Rear - Mostly clear - looks like it was changed recently. Looks like royal...

Any way to rule out that it's not a bad input shaft bearing? The videos I've seen seem more consistent with the noise. My concern is that I'm going to have to put another transmission in and not a simple clutch kit. Not trying to be obstinate. I'm just learning.

Here's a link to a video that demonstrates the chirp sound. I've listened to lots of transmission noise videos and none of them sound like this. They're usually rattling garbled noises. This is a high-pitched squeak/chirp that I initially thought was a pulley. Called some transmission shops...

Bad differential? This happened to me on my CR-V. Popping/clicking on tight slow right turns.

The previous owner broke the shift knob. After searching online, I found surprisingly few options that I liked for aftermarket shift knobs, so I decided to turn my own. I thought I would share the piece I made from walnut and copper. I was also able to reuse the shifter badge from the OEM knob...

Did you ever get this sorted? I have a 2017 with about 80,000 miles. Both front doors leak a ton and I noticed yesterday that the area in the back that holds the jack and lug wrench is full of standing water. I watched a video that shows that the new MOPAR seals have an extra channel that...

The Haynes manual suggests that the release bearing would be the issue if I heard the noise when pressing the clutch pedal. In my situation, the noise goes away when I press the pedal. Anyway, if it requires removing the exhaust and dropping the trans, I'm debating letting it go a bit longer...

source: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-set?searchText=Clutch+kit I was reading about these transmission symptoms and they don't really match my scenario; they're the opposite. I have a consistent chirp noise in neutral that goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed. I can hear the...

The windshield pump does not make noise when using the front sprayers. However, the rear works and you can hear the pump working. There’s washer fluid in the reservoir. I pulled the hoses from the front nozzles and they don’t work. I pulled the fuse and it stops the rear. I reseated the fuse...

So I read about oil cooler issues. Is this leak consistent with that failure? It’s located under the intake manifold, so I have to pull it. Wanted to get another opinion before I put in a half dozen hours pulling it. Someone suggested an oil sending unit. Anyone know where that’s located? Thanks.

That’s exactly the setup I’m talking about. Looks like yours connects to the gutters too. Have the cross bars ever shifted after a trip? Do you have to frequently retighten them?