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I use outta hand fab for, well most everything. They make a great product and have top notch customer service. https://www.outtahandfab.com Here are their sliders on my 2 door, they are weld on and solidly built.

I had it powder coated, I just like the durability much better. The intensity bumper is what I have, but without the additional skid and a couple changes to the hoop. It and the insanity rear work great in fixing approach/departure angles. We have several of their pieces ( bumpers, skid...

I would contact rigid. Everything I have of theirs has a lifetime warranty…worth looking into.

I would bet it’s your heater core, flush that dude out and see what happens.

Should be very easy to splice them back together. If there isn't enough slack in the harness, add a little wire to each and call it a day. I would recommend soldering them together if you can, if not a butt splice will do the job. Good luck

Also, finally got my winch reinstalled after the bumper upgrade. Yay me... Really like the new OuttaHand Fab bumper compared to the god awful warn bumper that was on there.

Finally got around to swapping out my tops. There was a thread comparing twill to standard, I didn't find it. Other than all the obvious differences the interior of the top is one of my favorites. It's a nice black cloth rather than the grey you get with vinyl. Here is a pic, yes it's...

Same. My heap seems happiest in the 26 - 28 psi range, no lights and better ride.

Welding cart looks nice. I think the axles are looking great, they don’t need to be perfect if you’re going to use them. You are going to use them…right?:)

Left, since the relay module mounts to the fender wall in front of the master cylinder.

You said post what ya got…this is what I use S-Tech 6 switch panel. I really like it, no interference with your top, everything is fused/relayed and it is so easy to add components. I don’t have a pic of the under hood module handy, but could get it if your interested.

I never ever by capped lug nuts & replace them on any car I buy. I hate them as much as @WestCoastDan does cheap battery clamps. :cool:

I recognize your jeep from the TJ site…you are wide open on this build it seems. I look forward to following your progress. Welcome to the JK site

I’ve never thought about this before but, that’s good info. Thank you.

The right side looks like an alignment dowel to me? The left side definitely could be welded back, especially if you still had the missing piece. If the motor is already out most any reputable machine shop could fix you up, though I do understand wanting peace of mind.

I would like to see what is broke that requires engine block replacement. I mean the trans just bolts to the engine thru some ears on the trans and bolt holes on the engine side right? Is it just stripped out, tap that to a larger bolt. Ear broke off, weld that back on. Maybe I don't fully...

So all lights worked up to the point of hooking the trailer up?

It is prone to failure due to its design, not very weather tight, and as you can see expensive to fix. Otherwise, it is great (IMO)…on the road you have the stability of a connected bar, press a button from inside the cab and you are disconnected.

Unless I’m missing something here, which is very possible cause I’m stupid…your jeep is a rubicon and therefore has the electronic sway bar. If it has failed, then you can add the manual evo system for $120 and be set.

I don’t suppose I have a need for it right now. If the actuator is still good, with some patience it will sell. That 1 piece is the bulk of the sway bar price at around 2k from an aftermarket company. Edit to say, I was wrong…3k! :oops: Which is why most people, like you, go to a manual...