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Not sure how this works but, maybe power is needed to operate or actuate the auto shut down. There should be 12v at some point during the cycle. Any 12v at any position of the key? Is it possible that ASD could mean “don’t let it start” if no signal is present, meaning when power is applied...

I think that points away from the ecm hopefully. M19 and M21 are ASD or auto shut down.

This is the type of live data it can provide. For your needs, it will confirm commands such as shut off… or run, etc. I am sure someone here has some ideas on what commands and sections to look at. J scan is vast.

This is the reader I use, it links to j scan app on your phone. You will have to buy a license that is tied to your jeep’s vin within the app. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2W1SNJH?tag=wranglerorg-20

We need to find out what is supposed to turn off when the key is turned off. Do you have or have access to a j-scan reader? It will tell you what is happening real time as you shut off the key. It takes a little research to figure out but it is a powerful tool. Hang on I’ll post some links.

Good point.

To check if ECM power is actually being delivered (or stuck on), use a multimeter or test light on: Fuse M6 — Powertrain Control Module (ECM) Fuse M7 — Auto Shutdown circuit (also feeds ECM indirectly) Fuse M37 — Ignition Run/Accessory circuits These are typically 15A or 20A fuses in the TIPM...

Jumping the relay does not send the "turn stuff on" signal, starting fluid will ignite from compression on diesels. That may account for your sputter. Again, I feel his pain.

Can you pressurize the line by hand and see if it will run? A sputter is a good sign, some progress.

when you do the battery disconnect, make sure the system drains, like holding the brake pedal down to suck any residual power out of the system, I usually disconnect both pos and neg cables and touch them together for a few seconds to pull every last bit out. Be careful how you do it, both...

I know that disconnecting my battery reset my ecm. All the codes were gone, but a few did come back, so I t seems as though the disconnect worked. I would be concerned about the ecm as well, not trying to scare him, but it is a possible.

Gremlins! I feel his pain. Did you do a battery disconnect/ecm reset? I am grabbing for straws here. Here is my recent no crank/no start issue: https://wranglerjkforum.net/threads/no-start-signal-on-07-jku.32526/

Ya, it is K3. 87 to 30 and starter should spin engine over. 86 yo ground, when in start position should show 12v. Those tests are generally the ones you do to confirm a bad TIPM. did you do the same tests with both tipms?

Back when I had my first real off road non-daily driver (mid 90's) Everything had to be made or fabricated for it (it was a 72' scout). The shops said " you should of bought a CJ". Well in 2010ish, I bought a CJ, hoping for some bolt on parts. The shops said I should of bought a TJ. So, I bought...

It came with a bolt down slider (offer up purchase), it locks in closed position when driving and then slides out similar to a drawer on ball bearing slides when parked and the latch is lifted. The fridge ties to the slider with nylon straps via the handles.

You mention the tipm, was it swapped with a new or rebuilt tipm and you used the old tipm to test the situation? If that is the case, what was wrong with the old tipm? Your post does not explain a lot of detail, did you jump K3 relay pins 86 and 87?

I’m new to jk’s but I found throwing money at generally works. Start with the cheap and easy. Then work up to big $$.

I just found the maker of my sliders, It is Nemesis ind. JKU Billy rockers...... https://nem-ind.com/jeep-body-armor/jeep-wrangler-jk-jku/jk-jku-rockers/jku-billy-rocker.html

I ordered the booster and master cylinder from jegs and the o ring/gasket from quadratec. Still need to find a reservoir. There are alternates to the kit res but still pricey.

If you have the steering wheel off, now would be a good time to change the clock spring.