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Never had it personally but I’ve heard a few people mention that it’s possible the insulation on the hood to get sucked into the intake and starve out the motor. By chance have loose insulation around the intake? Remember to look at the underside of the hood.

I don't have a solution but in a similar conundrum. Been chasing a flighty steering wheel for a bit. I've personally replaced most the joints and bushings to no avail. Now its down to the actual steering box or my stabilizer being dead. Gonna pull the stabilizer this weekend and drive without it...

Welcome to world of “Death Wobble”. There is a nice long list of things that can cause this on the front end. - worn ball joints - worn bushings - loose hardware - worn hub bearings Best to just get the front end up in the air and get some help moving the steering around a bit. Grab, shake...

That is a large drive-to-passenger side difference. Likely the cause of the drifting. Possible it has damage but possible error on the shop as well. Looks like they didn't even attempt to adjust the Caster? Your kit comes with adjustable upper and lower CAs, no excuses the casters shouldn't be...

I know the general consensus is to stick with Mopar OEM parts, but yeah a bit pricey. With a simple gasket like an oil pan I wouldn’t have as much reservation using a third party gasket. I’ve had success with Fel-pro on much of my gaskets over the years on GM and Isuzu vehicles and that’s likely...

Can't see too much but it looks like your on track. Not wet spots above and a wet sealing surface = leak. I don't be believe there is a path for oil to get from the Rear Main seal that far forward, well unless its dumping several ounces of fluid a day and your driving in reverse.

I'm looking at a leak in the near exact same spot. Mine is looking like a failed upper oil pan seal. Sounds much easier than the Rear Main seal. If you can, remove the dust shield and get it all cleaned up to verify which seal gave way. Cheers

I said what I said 🤣. Yeah, missed that one in edit.

Procrastinated on this one;

LIL-MO Well, because you can always use, a-lil-mo!

I got stubs. To be honest with the type of wheeling I do (rocks/trees) anything else would have likely been dead by now. I really don’t see benefits to a full width. More weight and less clearance. The 3/4 bumpers do hold the body lines of a Jeep better and are more cosmetically pleasing I...

Well, I jinxed myself. Woke up to a dead battery. Been dying slowly for the past week. 3-1/2yrs, about as much as I could ask for. Fun find replacing it: The previous owner had it stored for a couple years and obviously it was home to a squirrel or two😆. New NAPA in place.

Been running the NAPA Legend Pro with dual terminals and its held up well. I don't run a lot of accessories but it keeps the lights and fridge running with plenty of juice after a few days on trail. The dual terminals really help with keeping wiring clean.

Correct.

Compressed - Measure eye-to-eye on the shock mounts. Then add the distance from axle to bump stop. I would add an additional inch to allow for bump stop compression. Or you can order an extended bump stop. Extended can only really be attained by flexing the Jeep and finding the lowest sag point...

Another mode of failure for that mount is simply loose hardware. It might have not have been over extension but just rattled loose on your travels. Might want to look into some shocks with a lift range of 2-4" just to cover your potential of 3"+. Also, if you care for a smooth ride on those fire...

Not a bad option most days. You can get a set of chromoly shafts with bearings pressed on for $500-600. Swap done in 1hr. Or you can buy a OEM replacement with bearings for like $220 (per side). Depends if you have tools and time. Personally I wanted to keep my old shafts intact as spares so...

For that kind of work I would try Schaffer’s Off-road in Union City or travel a bit further to the 4x4 Shop in Livermore. Both can get that done and back up their work. There are always the 4 Wheel Parts Stores but I never could quite trust them. Others may disagree. Another spot that I had my...

What kind is f work do you need done? I haven’t had much luck in the East Bay/Tri-valley with dealers. If it’s mechanical (suspension, driveline, mods) then there are a couple spots. Engine/transmission stuff, no clue. I literally drive out to Stockton to mechanic I trust but haven’t used him on...

Just grease being flung around from a failing drive shaft CV joint. If your not getting vibrations yet you may be in a few. Not sure how well those things hold up once the seal goes. They do sell replacement joints if so inclined to replace just the joint.