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Frankly, the 392 is the thing that sold me. I love our JK's, and we're keeping hers, but every time I do a road trip over one of our passes I get annoyed at the amount of time my M6 spends in4th. Or 3rd. Here's a little pic the dealer sent me.

We reached agreement on the purchase, so this week we're driving Thor down to Dallas and trading him for a 2023 Wrangler Rubicon 392 with 11K miles. 4" lift with King 2.5 reservoir shocks. 37x13.5x17 Toyo Open Country MTs on KG1 beadlocks. Motorbilt bumpers, fenders, and fender liners. KS...

Upcoming weeks may be a bit busy. We're planning to take both Wranglers down to Medano Pass and the sand dunes again on Oct 12th. The thing is, we're not sure WHICH Wranglers. If we can agree on price, I might be trading my JK for a 392 JL. We will still have her JK, of course. I'm just fed up...

I'm stumped, honestly. It sounds like you've got a fully new upper assembly. If it didn't fix ANY of the codes that were being thrown, I'd question the computer, but you said you've replaced that as well? Which computer, specifically? I think you'd have to replace the ECU specifically.

We took Thor for a drive over Lavita Pass and Wolfcreek Pass to see the fall colors. Spent the night in Pagosa Springs. We decided not to get in the hot springs because the sulfur smell is SO strong. Heading home we decided to drop by the Great Sand Dunes and actually use 4WD to come over...

Try Amazon. I built both our Jeeps almost exclusively from Amazon.

Is your steering wheel straight? If it's canted even a little to either side, it'll trigger the traction light. In my area, there is a road that has a really high crown. Driving down it requires you to hold a little pressure to counter the crown. And that is enough to trigger my traction light.

Yes. They're canbus compatible.

Plus your dongle into the OBDII port. Turn the key to RUN but do not start the engine. Open JScan. Tap JK. and connect to your vehicle. Tap Adaptation. Tap DRL and follow the on-screen directions. Same as above, but tap Tire & Axle Settings instead of DRL.

I put these in both Wranglers. Took me about 20 minutes each. $129. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BFBVLR9/?tag=jkforum-20

You don't need a lift. Florida isn't an area that requires a max flex suspension. Swap on some flares that increase your clearance, put on 35's on wheels with about 4.5" backspacing. Now put the money you saved into lockers. You'll get more benefit from that.

I cannot imagine any circumstances which would lead to my leaving a phone plugged in long enough to have any impact on the car battery. Ignoring the phone, if you're leaving your vehicle parked long enough for the battery to discharge, the answer is to put a battery tender on it. If you do that...

This. If your phone isn't plugged in, there should be no drain on the battery. And, too, even if you're leaving your phone in the Jeep and plugged in, it'll take a LONG time before it drains the battery.

That can happen. My wife managed to prevent her AC from working because of an overloaded glovebox.

Your problem is most likely the blend door actuator. Super common for them to fail on these Wranglers.

If you spend $50 on a JScan setup, you can program your keys yourself. $30 for a key on Amazon, a few bucks to have it cut, and program it yourself. Presto.

The heat shield is between the exhaust and the floor pan. It's not to prevent brush fires, it's to prevent your feet from stinking any more than they already do...

Are you sure it's oil and not transmission fluid?

How important a gear change is certainly depends on where you're starting. 35's and 3.21 gears would absolutely suck. 35's with 4.10 gears isn't terrible.

There's a lot of good stuff on YouTube. There's also a lot of utter nonsense. A good paper manual (like Haynes) will have step by step instructions that you can have in the engine bay while you work. And no worries about breaking your laptop.