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@Speartip, I looked at the spare today and it's got about 5" of backspacing. Admittedly, that's an eyeball measurement, but it'll be close. And I found that the axles are about 1.5" wider on the 392 models. Combine that with the Motobilt flares, and I think that's what you're seeing.

I'm not sure. I know the 392 D44 is beefier than the regular Rubicon, but I do not think they're longer. I'll measure the backspacing when I get the chance.

What??? That's crazy! Who does that????

I think most of us have used JScan to just turn them off. Also, 32 PSI is higher than most of us find ideal. Have you done a chalk test?

And every sticker adds 5 HP. Everybody knows that.

I wouldn't suggest any traction board. If a traction board will get you out, you weren't really stuck to begin with. A spare tire and your buddies winch will do you more good.

So we put about 700 miles on it in the two days we've had it. We love it. Honestly, I feel like this is the engine every Wrangler should have. It's been named Zeus, and we will be taking it off road next weekend.

The PO is the dealers service manager, but the dealer (Hurst Autoplex) has a custom building service. Run by the service manager and a couple of fabricators. They do nice work. He had take off the spare, which I asked him to mount. He did, but that left it without a plate. So he fabbed up a...

Youtube it. Even the guys on Donut tested them. Worthless.

We did it. We traded this: for this: A 2023 Wrangler Rubicon 392 on 37x13.5x17 Toyo Open Country MTs on forged KG1 beadlocks. There's room for 40's, according to the PO. Metalbilt bumpers, flares, liners, and sliders. 10K Warn. KC Gravity LED Pro 8. Rock lights. A bit under 12,000 miles. The...

Did a bit of checking, mostly YouTube. Looks like people who have used this are generally happy with it's performance. Couple people took a more DIY route with cheap PPF. The only real negative I noticed is that it's not terribly durable. Generally needs replaced in 6 months - 2 years. I suspect...

Smells like snake oil, on first impression, but I'd say it would be worth investigating.

Grab your multimeter and set it to AC. Start the engine and connect the meter to the tach wire. Run the RPM up to 1K, 2K, 3K and record the meter reading at each RPM. You may need to get a Lovely Assistant from the audience. If they don't match, thank your assistant and repair or replace the tach.

I need a copy of this, please. ASAP.

Maybe your tach is a little off.

Can't ID it, but I am going to offer a short rant, in keeping with my position as Official Opinionated Curmudgeonly Old Fart... Once the tire shop gets them off, toss them in the trash. They're don't do anything other than give you grief. Here's the thing. YOU need to be able to get them off...

Those huge completely flat windscreens absolutely attract rocks. And there's little chance of deflecting them.

Check your connection and confirm that they're not wired backwards.

This is always a good place to start. It is shocking how bad the OEM cables are. [Edited to add: the pun was unplanned. I apologize.]

If it were a fuse, it would absolutely affect more than just one bulb. Grab your multimeter and start looking for the faulty wire.