Search results

What tire are you looking at? I may be able to help you figure out what you’re looking at.

Three Dog Night!!! Sorry, couldn’t resist.

One more piece of info. For an aggressive tread for a Jeep you will be looking at an ET(extra load) tire in P metric. 41 to 44 psi max rated. Of course you can air them down to 28psi for a good tread contact pattern and better ride.

You will have to try to stay with a P metric or a 6 ply LT tire to stay in the C load range. Read tire sidewalls and talk to a trusted tire guy/gal. Most LT tires are designed for full size pick up trucks. The kind we used to see on Sunday afternoon coming home from the cabin loaded with firewood.

I have P285/70R17 116T. These are rated at 2750 lbs at 44 psi. Basically a C rated tire. I come up with this comparison by the tire max air pressure. Max pressure of a C rated tire is 50 psi.

I will look at my tires this afternoon and see what I can come up with.

I find it depends on what I am towing and if I will need to open the gate. Towing my boat will require an extended hitch to open the gate. My utility trailer in its current configuration does not. My small luggage trailer also doesn’t require it.

I would rather spend that money on fuel. The performance gain is not noticeable with today’s systems.

One test to try, how many volts are at the TIPM power feed connection as opposed to at the alternator output stud. Or check resistance of the positive battery cable. I’m sure it is a spiderweb looking monster. It would need to be unhooked from every connection and resistance tested between all...

If it is reading low voltage the amps increase to raise the voltage up to the regulated 14.5 volts. It isn’t the voltage that is creating the heat. It is the abundance of amperage “burning up” the alternator. One would need to monitor how many amps are being produced to maintain the 14.5 volts...

I did some research. (Broke my foot in August and have nothing better to do.) The tipm and PCM work together to regulate the voltage. From what I can find, the manufacturer has not let anybody know how it does this yet. At this point, sadly, it seems you are our guinea pig.

Make dure the grounds for the TIPM are good. Hope the module isn’t failing. Also check for corrosion under the boots and where the cable ends are crimped.

I would have them extended 2” and call it good.

So how short are the OEM front links? Leave your rig the way it is and have them extended. What ever you do you will need to spend some money. Your local part store should know of a good welder.

Just take the ones you have to a welder/fabricator and have 2” taken out.

Make sure your grounds from the battery are clean and tight. Update us what you find.

How many amps are being produced? 14.7 should be standard volts with a fully charged battery. Have you load tested the battery?

I noticed many if the aftermarket mufflers are smaller than stock. This would reduce the chances of hitting it coming off a rock.

Sounds like you’ve got it figured out. I run 28psi in my tires it tides nice. New tires and a perfect balance will correct the DW. Loose components generally do not cause the wobble.

You should be good to go. At the very least you may have to shim your steering stops because of slight rubbing during tight turns.