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I think they're relatively generic, and the one I attached is actually used. Most of the new ones I saw were well over $100, so good on ya for finding a new one that cheap! The one I attached, after checking the VIN, came off a 2013 Sport, auto with the 3.6.

https://baseline4x4.com/parts/JEEP/WRANGLER/554177/2013/TEMP_CONTROL/111731/

Are you sure it might not be the temp control rather than the actuator?

You're certainly welcome to spend the money on adjustable control arms, but as Black stated, unless you go beyond 2.5", they aren't necessary. I have a 2.5" lift and don't have them. Matter of fact my front track bar is adjustable, but the rear isn't.....hmmmm.... maybe I should look into that...

My first car- Triumph TR6; kept it not too long. 1972 Chevy Malibu SS (paid $2400, now worth minimum $45k) 1969 Camaro w/396 1971 Ford Torino GT w/351 Cleveland, shaker hood and Muncie 4 spd factory Everything after that was meh....... but each one of those is now worth a fortune. And my wife...

I think that locking it in is one thing, but keeping it locked in under load is another. The linkage needs to keep it locked in place. What you might try is getting your JK off the ground, start the engine, crawl under and engage the front xfer case by hand and see what happens. But I really...

Next suggestion is to adjust the linkage. It sounds like it's engaging, but if it pops out, it may not be fully engaging. This will require adjusting the linkage, probably no more than a 1/4" at a time.

This is a common problem with the wranglers. What happens is the transfer case shift cable pops off the transfer case because the bushing that holds the cable on falls apart you will need to replace the bushing on the cable and then reinstall the cable onto the transfer case shift lever. The...

Try these guys. My brother in law says they're okay to work with. They're in Lake Hopatcong. https://the4x4place.com/ There's a decent place in Tom's River called Globex Performance, but I'm not sure they do regearing.

Been using Jscan on my android devices for about 5 years now.

Places like that are great teaching environments, both for the driver and the spotter. Teaches communication between driver and spotter; driver gets a good idea for speed and control, vehicle reaction to differing approach angles, etc.

Also bear in mind that any lift in excess of 2.5" will require adjustable control arms, possibly new driveshaft. You'll want new shocks as well if they're not included with the lift. The more you change the geometry on your suspension, the more money it will cost you.

Muriatic acid will help get the concrete clean after a pressure wash or 2 with a combination of bleach and orange Krud Kutter. DO NOT run the bleach through your pressure washer.

Recently change the oil? When you removed the old oil filter, did you ensure the old rubber gasket come off with it? Putting a new oil filter with its gasket on top of another gasket is a sure way to lose 5 quarts real quick. Yes, I did this to my own car about 40 years ago....

Likely rear main seal. Mine was replaced under warranty (also a 2014). I saw a couple smallish spots on the driveway and crawled underneath to take a look. Oil accumulation to where the drip collects is on the lower part of the transmission bell housing.

If this photo was taken with your vehicle on level ground and the steering wheel centered, I don't like the looks of this. Does not appear level? What does the left side look like?

I have a 2.5" Teraflex. I replaced the shocks with RCs and I have no complaints.

The biggest challenge with the soundbar and dash speakers is the mounting bracket. The factory speakers have an attached flange around the perimeter of the speaker, while most speakers have the mounting screws within that diameter, if that makes sense. Like this: Most speakers look like this...

I replaced mine with Rockford Fosgate and the improved sound quality is nothing short of outstanding for a road-noisy JKU.

I couldn't be happier with my BFG TA KO2.