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"White smoke" is not usually smoke, as such. Commonly, it is coolant, and the "white" appearance is condensing vapor (steam). Poor carburation tends to discharge sooty, dark smoke. Oil commonly causes a blueish "smoke." If this appeared following the replacement of the head gasket, I would...

Yes. It can really be frustrating when you discover that somehow things have been mixed when they should have been matched, so to speak.

Yep. I was considering the the OP's question and emphasizing the "rim" aspect. It's kind of irritating to have to decide between returning new rims or new tires because one doesn't fit the other. Been there once, though happily not with my Rubi.

That 285/70R17 is for a smaller wheel than your current 255/70R18. The wheel diameter is one inch smaller. You might want to look at that first. See for instance: https://milestartires.com/help/tires-101/how-to-read-a-tire/.

The way the damage is localized looks as if something had been spilled, and possibly allowed to dry. In fact, I might suspect birds did the dirty work, considering the shapes and appearance. But unless there are some truly scary pigeons around, that probably isn't the case. I had a girl...

I am not certain, but it looks like a Barricade brand. It looks like they just added the bumper and ignored the extra elements for fitting a winch.

You can get car ramps on Amazon. Couple those with blocks to keep it from rolling back. The emergency brake should keep the vehicle from rolling anyway. Most ramps gain you about 6 inches. That should let you burp the engine. Have you found where the smoke was coming from? Under the hood...

The 2024 would be a JL body. The bumper on some JLs looks similar to what I have on mine - that heavier steel bumper the more high end releases like the 75th. The stock JK/U Wrangler front bumper is single piece, and plastic covered, and will peel like a banana under the wrong circumstances...

Two questions. First, what do you mean by "skating." Also, you play in your steering. It's unclear if you are handing about a total four inches of slop, two left and two right, or just a total of two inches. Four inches of total play would definitely cause some problems holding a line or...

The manual makes a point about not all fuel being equal, and even makes recommendations about which brands to use. I've had similar experience though not in my Rubi. My 2005 4X4 Toyota PU was fussy about gas and would get noticeably better mileage and run more smoothly when filled with certain...

You really don't need to have them change it. The main reason for using different weights is climate temperature. And the manual indicates that range, so you should be fine with 0W-20 unless you want it changed

The 2016 manual recommends "FCA Material Standard MS-6395" class, API certified oils. A number of different weights are listed: "0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 engine oils." Your Pennzoil sounds like it meets the recommendations. I run 5W-20 at the moment.

The axles should be the same, so the rear 44 on the Sport will be the same as the rear on the Rubicon. The front axles are Dana 30s on the Sport series, and 44s on the Rubicon. The Wrangler has base specifications including track width. On the 2016 series of Wranglers (all trims) the track...

Are you looking at the front or rear axles on a Sport, or comparing a Rubicon to a Sport, or is there some other "sport" you have in mind? The Rubicon has 44s front and rear, but they aren't interchangeable. For instance, the front differential housing is off center on the driver's side (left...

A Rubicon, as factory built, is engineered to handle anything but extraordinarily tough rock crawling without needing any serious modifications. A stock Rubicon JK/U can be taken over the Rubicon Trail, given a driver that knows the vehicle, and a decent spotter. So, unless you are looking at...

Yep. Thanks for catching that. Not sure what the hands typing were thinking. All I can think of is that somewhere between the brain and the fingertips something decided to round the number to the nearest multiple of 10.

As concerns factory specifications, look here: https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2010-Jeep-Wrangler+Unlimited-Sahara__4dr_4x4/specs/ Lift can be a tricky thing to determine. When I bought mine, used, it was noticeably higher than my first. Your original set should have included a DANA 30 front...

Four millimeters is just a little more than 5/32" and about .03 less than 3/16. The "tow rated" probably tells you more than metal thickness, though.

One thing they mention is that the "sensor problem" might not be a sensor. It could be wiring, and that would not be resolved by swapping out sensors. The idea seems like a reasonable diagnostic, but the dealer rates are commonly higher.

You want the shop to explain exactly what the problem with the engine is. Also, you want to know how it was they didn't catch the problem the first time you had the jeep in the shop. Something more or less catastrophic has to be wrong with the motor.