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Mines a 2012 stripper 2 door sport. I went looking for the rear defroster/rear wiper harness on the left side and it doesn't exist. Hardtop is not original to this jeep. Anyone have a link to either the plug, pin out or actual power port part? -Mac

Is this it?

I bought our JK knowing the radio was shot. I checked the fuses...all good... It wasn't until I found the entire contents of a 16 oz tube of clear silicone in the freedom top gaskets that I realized the radio problem was a symptom of a larger issue. We replaced the front gasket...that slowed...

Mine was included as an option on my build sheet. And it was a stripper JK sport 2 door. I would imagine you can walk into a dealer, order the cheapest Jeep with absolutely zero options and add the badge. -Mac

That just means they still have some oil inside. They're only really shot when they stop leaking. -Mac

Hard to tell visually. Not hard to pull the bottom bolt or bounce the Jeep to test them. -Mac

I bought it. Everything looked good. PO win an ultimate Dana 44 from spicer so it wasnt pulled because something broke. Came with shafts...oem shafts...and they'll do until they don't and then I'll replace them. I plan on doing ball joints, hubs, u joints and pads, rotors and maybe calipers...

A JK Dana 44 came up for sale on FB. Going to check it out tonight. Currently I have a 30/44 Sport with stock 3.07 gears and a 6 speed. 2012. 35 inch Mickeys. The 44 is allegedly a Rubi e-locker and 5.13 gears. I was originally thinking 4.88s...but a 44 front and rear and 5.13s might get me...

Depends on if you're doing the work or paying someone else. If you're paying someone else make sure all the warranties transfer to the new owner. A running Jeep is always going to sell for more money...and faster. And like you're questioning...is that difference worth paying someone. I'd do...

How many miles? What fluid did you use? Any codes? Any transmission work done previously? -Mac

I can't see your video but if you're able to wiggle the driveshaft your joints are shot. Not hard to replace them or go buy aftermarket shafts from Adams or Tom Woods. -Mac

Something similar...mine was from scosche. -Mac

I'd say no...for one any aftermarket harness has to tell the computer via the CAN bus the radio is there and to turn on the relay to supply power. I pulled the factory radio from my 2012 while we were driving to Montana via dirt roads and wired in a $20 cheapo from Walmart. Crimping connections...

Ok...ordered up a set of Mopar lift struts...dealer wanted $73 each and my wife talked them down to $50 each. They are identical in size, shape and performance to the $27 for a pair Amazon units...but I hope these will last longer. I'm thinking ultimately the solution is a Metalcloak Game...

I went down to the dealer and bought a new hard top gasket...plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it. -Mac

Went to Cline Buttes OHV park in Oregon. Left our place in Fall Creek and went up FS18 to 1832 and dropped on to Hwy 126 via 2618/9 and then dropped into Sisters via 242. Drove back via 126 and hiked to Blue Pool on a whim at sunset and for once hardly saw any people... usually there is a line...

Got the delete plate installed. Was a PIA juggling/aligning the tailgate, the support bar, the tire carrier and threading in the bolts. Would suggest anyone doing this do two things...one...spend the money on a lightweight aluminum plate...and two...get stainless 8x1.25 studs and bolts...stuff...

Anyone have a link or a hint for what to search for? Everything I'm typing in comes up with tons of em on Amazon and eBay. Might try one of the Mopar parts giant websites. -Mac

Nope.

So...lift struts on my 2012 JK ... bought some on Amazon...they work but I was hoping not to mash my head every time... Any suggestions on a strut with more lift or a mod to make the glass lift higher? -Mac