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Took Moby out for a local spin again today; no codes, no stumbling, etc. BUT… With the original ECU installed, my remote locks no longer function. Here’s the roadmap thus far: Failed CPS; replaced w/ aftermarket, cleared codes and drove it for a few weeks. Lightning bolt, limp mode and codes...

I drove ours to my local drive-thru for lunch. No codes YET with my original ECU. Remote door locks don’t work, but it SEEMS to be running. I’ll need it to make more than a few very local trips before I’ll have any confidence in it again.

Please provide a few more details on this O-Ring…

The replacement ECU arrived and installed… problem changed to it would run for a few seconds then die. Tried multiple times (maybe 6) with the same results, THEN it wouldn’t even start. Tried to read the codes and JSCAN said there was no license for the VIN. Checked the VIN in JSCAN & it...

Yes, I reached out to the vendor... 3 times now and no reply. :mad: Am I correct that the VIN reported back to JSCAN from the ECU needs to match the original VIN in order for JSCAN to work correctly/fully? That makes sense. My real question is regarding the VIN code IN the replacement ECU...

When purchasing a replacement ECU, they require the VIN to "program" it correctly. I assume this means to get all of the settings for things such as lights, door locks, etc. that may be different from another model. I gave them my VIN and confirmed it, then placed my order. "New" ECU arrived...

I have a trick for that! I held the "button" with a pair of forceps (locking tweezers, if you will), and heated it up using a MAP torch. Once the button was super hot, I added a bit of solder & then simply held it against the solder that was already on the glass. Worked perfectly, on the first try.

No, the factory battery clamps are shit from day 1. Essentially, they clamp around the post with a thin ring of metal (instead of a full grip around the entirety of the post) , that allows the clamps to spin as the vehicle flexes and bounces, resulting in a groove being worn into the post, and...

I also have a set of the bags shown that mount below the roll bar, directly behind the rear seat. I only installed the one on the left (driver side), as I didn't like the way the one on the right obstructed my view out the side of the vehicle.

Without knowing more, I’ll vote that both of your issues are related to the shitty battery clamps…

I'm also going through this on our '15 Rubicon. I'm currently waiting for a replacement ECU to arrive...

^^^ What Bird said... :unsure:

Wife convinced me to try the new ECU instead of lighting the whole thing on fire... Lifetime warranty, programmed to the VIN, and under $400; should have it in a week or so. At least I'm not wearing out my new tires...

Tried that and it went into limp mode again before I could get around the block. I told me wife to have it towed to wherever she wants to trade it in; I'm done.

Finally got it to start, but I had to drive it home in limp mode. ECU reset cleared the codes enough to start it and it not immediately jump into panic/lightning bolt mode again, but I don’t trust it to go around the block.

Well, the #5 misfire is gone, but more codes came up and now it won’t start… just cranks and cranks and never fires. I’m stuck in a local parking lot and hoping for it to be stolen…

I installed new plugs and coil packs. All in, I spent $235 and about 2 hours. Drives MUCH better. I know it's on me to stay on top of these types of issues, but we haven't put that many miles on it since purchased almost 2 years ago, and THIS is what I found when I pulled the plugs: Yes, Plug...

Thanks. I appreciate advice learned through experience, and this is great advice. I need to deal with this misfire on the JKU and a complete brake replacement on the TJ all in the same week. At least I'm farming out the TJ brakes. I saw that each side has a separate kit available, but I didn't...

Good luck. It will likely exclude those of us that bought them used… 🤦‍♂️ That said, I didn’t know a local shop so I had mine fixed at the dealership. $4K later I have another 6 months on the warranty.

Agreed. Let’s do the math here: Remove MY sensor - labor Remove TEST sensor - labor Install TEST sensor - labor Remove TEST sensor - labor Reinstall MY sensor (or a new one) - labor Reinstall TEST sensor - labor As compared to remove MY sensor and replace with a NEW sensor. Their approach...