Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK radiators

My seemingly never ending death wobble journey

NineLives

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Joined
Oct 23, 2022
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47
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United States
Hi group!

I have been chasing death wobble for about 2 months or more. I am providing a very detailed and lengthy description of my efforts and how this all began. First I'll give you my Jeep info and then the background.

2015 JKU, auto
4" lift (unknown company to me)
35x12.5x17 Radar Renegade RT tires, 28psi
CavFab 1 ton steering
RC double cardan front driveshaft


The journey:
North GA had significant snow in January and freezing/below freezing temps for almost 2wks at mountain elevation. The forest roads sustained a lot of damage and erosion from frequent abuse and things melting and refreezing multiple times. The roads were not smooth to begin with and existing potholes or other eroded areas got bigger and deeper. A normal 15" wide x 6" deep hole grew to cover most of the width of the road and depth increased to about 18". The erosion and growth of that hole was unknown and unexpected to me when I came thru at my normal speed of 25-30mph (I don't need to hear about my speed, thank you).

I noticed later that day on pavement that things felt off/a steering shimmy had developed, but nothing appeared damaged. That was 2/13/25.

Here is a timeline of my front end issues and efforts to fix them. As of today 5/18, I'm still chasing death wobble. So I'd like yall to read over, let me know if something was missed on inspections and testing, where to go from here etc. I'm going to include everything i think is relevant, including some service work prior to February 2025. I also have used my same 2 normal shops (a Jeep/offroad shop and a regular shop) for all of the work except for the last alignment done on 5/5/25.


11/2024 - front driver wheel hub replaced

NYE 2024 - tire rotation

2/13/25 - slammed front end into hole described above

3/5/25 - tire rotation, auto transmission fluid change, checked/torqued/marked all suspension and steering bolts, greased fittings/checked bushings. He said my drag link ends looked and sounded worn (stethoscope) and also that when doing steering shimmies that the track bar looks like it's flexing.

3/14/25 - full on DW on the freeway at 65mph

3/18/25 - auto transmission check, discovered bad ball joint, oil cooler checked for a nonpressurized coolant leak.

3/19/25- replaced radiator, topped off coolant/burped

3/24/25 - installed Trail Forged 1 ton (Apex) replacement drag link ends. Alignment by hand and not machine. Steering shimmy still very present.

4/14/25 - installed Teraflex HD ball joints, new brake rotors and pads all around (no alignment yet because other work scheduled a week later - Jeep was driven very minimally)

4/23/25 - installed Core 4x4 adjustable front LCAs

4/24/25 - alignment (can provide screenshot of the measurements), had DW at 35mph on way home in a slight curve. Discovered drag link jam nut was finger loose. Tightened it, dropped psi down from 28 to 26 and did another short drive and had DW at 40mph in another curve.

4/29/25 - returned to shop. All weights stripped from wheels, wheels checked for any damage/bent, rebalanced and rotated around and put back on. No adjustments/alignments done. DW about 40mph on way home.

4/30/25 - purchased 5 used 37" Mickey T Baja Boss. The wear is not even, but is not real bad.

5/2/25 - installed RC adjustable track bar, mount and balance the 37s

5/5/25 - alignment. Did not provide me the numbers. Said he did not touch my caster because it was in the right specs. Said he felt front driveline vibration and my pinion angle was probably off and that I should install front adjustable UCAs to really dial in the total caster. They drove it several times at high and low speeds and no wobble. Unfortunately, I had DW later that day.

5/7/25 - 5/14/25 - inspected, test drove, tried to duplicate DW. Felt play in steering box and swapped out from an existing JK. Advised to order a steering box (RedHead, non ported). Swapping the box there was still a bit of play but not as bad as the one they took out. Drove many miles in many different speeds and could not reproduce DW. I live 5 miles from shop and had DW twice on way home. New steering box has been ordered and will arrive next week.

I have since ordered the upgraded track bar and control arms grade 8 bolt kit with the 14mm additional bolt and those will be replaced on Wednesday while we're waiting for the steering box.

As you can see, I believe we've exhausted damn near everything on the death wobble checklist, with things being checked and/or retorqued to over 125 ft lbs upon each shop visit.

If these bolts and this steering box dont fix this, I'm honestly at a loss now.

I am seeking advice on other things to check, also what my alignment numbers should be, do I really need the front adjustable UCAs?

What else? Bad wheel hubs, weakened weld joints, bent axle tube(s)? I've spent about $3K in parts and labor in the last 2 months and I'm genuinely afraid to drive my Jeep.
20250429_123001.jpg
 
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Hi group!

I have been chasing death wobble for about 2 months or more. I am providing a very detailed and lengthy description of my efforts and how this all began. First I'll give you my Jeep info and then the background.

2015 JKU, auto
4" lift (unknown company to me)
35x12.5x17 Radar Renegade RT tires, 28psi
CavFab 1 ton steering
RC double cardan front driveshaft


The journey:
North GA had significant snow in January and freezing/below freezing temps for almost 2wks at mountain elevation. The forest roads sustained a lot of damage and erosion from frequent abuse and things melting and refreezing multiple times. The roads were not smooth to begin with and existing potholes or other eroded areas got bigger and deeper. A normal 15" wide x 6" deep hole grew to cover most of the width of the road and depth increased to about 18". The erosion and growth of that hole was unknown and unexpected to me when I came thru at my normal speed of 25-30mph (I don't need to hear about my speed, thank you).

I noticed later that day on pavement that things felt off/a steering shimmy had developed, but nothing appeared damaged. That was 2/13/25.

Here is a timeline of my front end issues and efforts to fix them. As of today 5/18, I'm still chasing death wobble. So I'd like yall to read over, let me know if something was missed on inspections and testing, where to go from here etc. I'm going to include everything i think is relevant, including some service work prior to February 2025. I also have used my same 2 normal shops (a Jeep/offroad shop and a regular shop) for all of the work except for the last alignment done on 5/5/25.


11/2024 - front driver wheel hub replaced

NYE 2024 - tire rotation

2/13/25 - slammed front end into hole described above

3/5/25 - tire rotation, auto transmission fluid change, checked/torqued/marked all suspension and steering bolts, greased fittings/checked bushings. He said my drag link ends looked and sounded worn (stethoscope) and also that when doing steering shimmies that the track bar looks like it's flexing.

3/14/25 - full on DW on the freeway at 65mph

3/18/25 - auto transmission check, discovered bad ball joint, oil cooler checked for a nonpressurized coolant leak.

3/19/25- replaced radiator, topped off coolant/burped

3/24/25 - installed Trail Forged 1 ton (Apex) replacement drag link ends. Alignment by hand and not machine. Steering shimmy still very present.

4/14/25 - installed Teraflex HD ball joints, new brake rotors and pads all around (no alignment yet because other work scheduled a week later - Jeep was driven very minimally)

4/23/25 - installed Core 4x4 adjustable front LCAs

4/24/25 - alignment (can provide screenshot of the measurements), had DW at 35mph on way home in a slight curve. Discovered drag link jam nut was finger loose. Tightened it, dropped psi down from 28 to 26 and did another short drive and had DW at 40mph in another curve.

4/29/25 - returned to shop. All weights stripped from wheels, wheels checked for any damage/bent, rebalanced and rotated around and put back on. No adjustments/alignments done. DW about 40mph on way home.

4/30/25 - purchased 5 used 37" Mickey T Baja Boss. The wear is not even, but is not real bad.

5/2/25 - installed RC adjustable track bar, mount and balance the 37s

5/5/25 - alignment. Did not provide me the numbers. Said he did not touch my caster because it was in the right specs. Said he felt front driveline vibration and my pinion angle was probably off and that I should install front adjustable UCAs to really dial in the total caster. They drove it several times at high and low speeds and no wobble. Unfortunately, I had DW later that day.

5/7/25 - 5/14/25 - inspected, test drove, tried to duplicate DW. Felt play in steering box and swapped out from an existing JK. Advised to order a steering box (RedHead, non ported). Swapping the box there was still a bit of play but not as bad as the one they took out. Drove many miles in many different speeds and could not reproduce DW. I live 5 miles from shop and had DW twice on way home. New steering box has been ordered and will arrive next week.

I have since ordered the upgraded track bar and control arms grade 8 bolt kit with the 14mm additional bolt and those will be replaced on Wednesday while we're waiting for the steering box.

As you can see, I believe we've exhausted damn near everything on the death wobble checklist, with things being checked and/or retorqued to over 125 ft lbs upon each shop visit.

If these bolts and this steering box dont fix this, I'm honestly at a loss now.

I am seeking advice on other things to check, also what my alignment numbers should be, do I really need the front adjustable UCAs?

What else? Bad wheel hubs, weakened weld joints, bent axle tube(s)? I've spent about $3K in parts and labor in the last 2 months and I'm genuinely afraid to drive my Jeep.
View attachment 129282

Well unfortunately your speed doesn’t help . Jeeps suspension is not indestructible . Going through massive potholes at speed is going mess things up .
That said .
Is your track bar & drag link aligned of parallel ? If not you may have to do drag link flip .
You mentioned drivers side hub replaced . Do passenger side .
Possibly front rotors are warped . If problem persists after aligning track bar & drag link would get rotors checked .
Because Jeeps use a solid front axel it’s crucial to keep the geometry within spec .
 
Well unfortunately your speed doesn’t help . Jeeps suspension is not indestructible . Going through massive potholes at speed is going mess things up .
That said .
Is your track bar & drag link aligned of parallel ? If not you may have to do drag link flip .
You mentioned drivers side hub replaced . Do passenger side .
Possibly front rotors are warped . If problem persists after aligning track bar & drag link would get rotors checked .
Because Jeeps use a solid front axel it’s crucial to keep the geometry within spec .

My rotors are brand new and less than 1K miles. I will mention passenger wheel hub.

I normally drive that fast because I'm very very familiar with the roads (I work in the forests) and usually know where every dip and pothole is, even in the fog or dark. But this caught me, unfortunately.

I have since slowed down significantly in the forest, but I also haven't had a lot of drive time since I began repairs. So, speed going forward has been adjusted, but that obviously didn't help me at the time.

Also, track bar/drag link look parallel

20250519_105758.jpg
 
Hi group!

I have been chasing death wobble for about 2 months or more. I am providing a very detailed and lengthy description of my efforts and how this all began. First I'll give you my Jeep info and then the background.

2015 JKU, auto
4" lift (unknown company to me)
35x12.5x17 Radar Renegade RT tires, 28psi
CavFab 1 ton steering
RC double cardan front driveshaft


The journey:
North GA had significant snow in January and freezing/below freezing temps for almost 2wks at mountain elevation. The forest roads sustained a lot of damage and erosion from frequent abuse and things melting and refreezing multiple times. The roads were not smooth to begin with and existing potholes or other eroded areas got bigger and deeper. A normal 15" wide x 6" deep hole grew to cover most of the width of the road and depth increased to about 18". The erosion and growth of that hole was unknown and unexpected to me when I came thru at my normal speed of 25-30mph (I don't need to hear about my speed, thank you).

I noticed later that day on pavement that things felt off/a steering shimmy had developed, but nothing appeared damaged. That was 2/13/25.

Here is a timeline of my front end issues and efforts to fix them. As of today 5/18, I'm still chasing death wobble. So I'd like yall to read over, let me know if something was missed on inspections and testing, where to go from here etc. I'm going to include everything i think is relevant, including some service work prior to February 2025. I also have used my same 2 normal shops (a Jeep/offroad shop and a regular shop) for all of the work except for the last alignment done on 5/5/25.


11/2024 - front driver wheel hub replaced

NYE 2024 - tire rotation

2/13/25 - slammed front end into hole described above

3/5/25 - tire rotation, auto transmission fluid change, checked/torqued/marked all suspension and steering bolts, greased fittings/checked bushings. He said my drag link ends looked and sounded worn (stethoscope) and also that when doing steering shimmies that the track bar looks like it's flexing.

3/14/25 - full on DW on the freeway at 65mph

3/18/25 - auto transmission check, discovered bad ball joint, oil cooler checked for a nonpressurized coolant leak.

3/19/25- replaced radiator, topped off coolant/burped

3/24/25 - installed Trail Forged 1 ton (Apex) replacement drag link ends. Alignment by hand and not machine. Steering shimmy still very present.

4/14/25 - installed Teraflex HD ball joints, new brake rotors and pads all around (no alignment yet because other work scheduled a week later - Jeep was driven very minimally)

4/23/25 - installed Core 4x4 adjustable front LCAs

4/24/25 - alignment (can provide screenshot of the measurements), had DW at 35mph on way home in a slight curve. Discovered drag link jam nut was finger loose. Tightened it, dropped psi down from 28 to 26 and did another short drive and had DW at 40mph in another curve.

4/29/25 - returned to shop. All weights stripped from wheels, wheels checked for any damage/bent, rebalanced and rotated around and put back on. No adjustments/alignments done. DW about 40mph on way home.

4/30/25 - purchased 5 used 37" Mickey T Baja Boss. The wear is not even, but is not real bad.

5/2/25 - installed RC adjustable track bar, mount and balance the 37s

5/5/25 - alignment. Did not provide me the numbers. Said he did not touch my caster because it was in the right specs. Said he felt front driveline vibration and my pinion angle was probably off and that I should install front adjustable UCAs to really dial in the total caster. They drove it several times at high and low speeds and no wobble. Unfortunately, I had DW later that day.

5/7/25 - 5/14/25 - inspected, test drove, tried to duplicate DW. Felt play in steering box and swapped out from an existing JK. Advised to order a steering box (RedHead, non ported). Swapping the box there was still a bit of play but not as bad as the one they took out. Drove many miles in many different speeds and could not reproduce DW. I live 5 miles from shop and had DW twice on way home. New steering box has been ordered and will arrive next week.

I have since ordered the upgraded track bar and control arms grade 8 bolt kit with the 14mm additional bolt and those will be replaced on Wednesday while we're waiting for the steering box.

As you can see, I believe we've exhausted damn near everything on the death wobble checklist, with things being checked and/or retorqued to over 125 ft lbs upon each shop visit.

If these bolts and this steering box dont fix this, I'm honestly at a loss now.

I am seeking advice on other things to check, also what my alignment numbers should be, do I really need the front adjustable UCAs?

What else? Bad wheel hubs, weakened weld joints, bent axle tube(s)? I've spent about $3K in parts and labor in the last 2 months and I'm genuinely afraid to drive my Jeep.
View attachment 129282

From what you described, it sounds like you've systematically tackled a lot of the common culprits associated with death wobble. Here are a few things I’d suggest considering based on your experience and timeline:

Alignment Check: You mentioned that the shop didn't provide you with alignment numbers. I’d definitely recommend getting a printout to ensure that everything is in spec, especially caster angles. The fact that you're experiencing DW in curves could indicate some caster issues, especially after the suspension work.

Wheel Hubs: While you mentioned that the front driver wheel hub was replaced, it’s worth double-checking the other hub and ensuring they’re functioning properly. Sometimes, when one fails, the other may not be too far behind.

Tierod & Drag Link Inspection: Make sure the tierod ends and drag link are not only replaced but also properly tightened. Sometimes, small details like a loose connection can cause the wobble to persist.

Bushings: Since you replaced some components, ensure that all bushings are in good shape. Worn or damaged bushings can cause flex and lead to alignment issues, contributing to wobble.

Check for Bent Components: Even a small bend in the track bar or steering components can lead to instability. A thorough visual inspection might reveal something that has been overlooked.

Driveshaft and Pinion Angle: It sounds like you've been advised about the pinion angle, and it can definitely be a factor. If it’s off, it can lead to vibrations that might be contributing to the wobble.

Axle Tube: While this is a less common issue, it’s worth having the axle tube inspected for any bends or structural issues, especially after hitting that hole.

Steering Box: You’re on the right track with getting a new steering box. Make sure it’s properly aligned and installed, as it can significantly affect steering performance if not calibrated correctly.

Drive Test with Others: If possible, take someone along to observe while you drive. They might notice something that you don’t, or you can even compare with another Jeep of similar specs to see if the threshold for wobble is significantly different.

Lastly, patience is key in these situations. Many have faced similar struggles, and sometimes it just takes a bit of trial and error to finally identify the root cause.

Keep us updated on your progress, and good luck!
 
Few years ago I began experiencing some wobble (not DW and very inconsistent), accompanied by some pull to the left. It began shortly after I hit an unseen, unpainted asphalt speed bump at about 25mph. It's a 2014 JKU with a 2.5" lift and 35s.

Got it on a rack after finding it nearly impossible to get the front end aligned. Turns out the tie rod was not straight/true. There was a very small bend of less than 1/4" that was causing all the problem. In the shop we simply tied a piece of nylon piece of twine to the lift posts, thru a line level on it and held the tie rod up to it.

Anyway, new tie rod and all is good.
 
Few years ago I began experiencing some wobble (not DW and very inconsistent), accompanied by some pull to the left. It began shortly after I hit an unseen, unpainted asphalt speed bump at about 25mph. It's a 2014 JKU with a 2.5" lift and 35s.

Got it on a rack after finding it nearly impossible to get the front end aligned. Turns out the tie rod was not straight/true. There was a very small bend of less than 1/4" that was causing all the problem. In the shop we simply tied a piece of nylon piece of twine to the lift posts, thru a line level on it and held the tie rod up to it.

Anyway, new tie rod and all is good.

Thanks for the feedback and man....that's kinda something along the lines of what I'm thinking. At this point something has to be bent that we just haven't looked for yet.
 
I’m new to jk’s but I found throwing money at generally works. Start with the cheap and easy. Then work up to big $$.


Make It Rain Money GIF by Tim and Eric
 
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After looking at your chart I see you have negative camber. That means the tops of your tires point inward towards the Jeep like a slammed Honda Civic. This makes me believe your front axle is bent. Dana 30 on it?
 
Everything our fellow Jeepers said is accurate . 100 percent .
I’m guessing you purchased Jeep with a 4” lif as you were unsure of brand .
As @Chris mentioned adjustable Lower / Upper control arms will help you dial in caster and pinion angle .
When I replaced my track bar with a Yeti Steer Smarts . .The old track bar bolts were fully theaded to the head causing the bushing to elongate . You mentioned new track bar .
Replaced with grade 8 , 9/16
shoulder’s bolts . You mentioned replacing control arm bolts . Def replace all .
Most everyone driving a modded wrangler has had to deal with wobble . It takes a bit of trial & error to fig it out as there are a number of different problems that could be causing it . Your on the right track . If anyone at a shop or other forum suggests steering stabilizer please ignore.
 
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After looking at your chart I see you have negative camber. That means the tops of your tires point inward towards the Jeep like a slammed Honda Civic. This makes me believe your front axle is bent. Dana 30 on it?

Ooh interesting observation, thanks! Yes, stock Sport axles, no reinforcements to my knowledge.

I'm very ignorant there, so forgive this question. Is that fix usually an entire new axle, or would the tube(s) need to be replaced? I firmly do not understand how a "solid" axle has pieces inside it, but i can research that on my own. You're welcome to dumb it down if you'd like, but I don't want to take up your time.
 
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Everything our fellow Jeepers said is accurate . 100 percent .
I’m guessing you purchased Jeep with a 4” lif as you were unsure of brand .
As @Chris mentioned adjustable Lower / Upper control arms will help you dial in caster and pinion angle .
When I replaced my track bar with a Yeti Steer Smarts . .The old track bar bolts were fully theaded to the head causing the bushing to elongate . You mentioned new track bar .
Replaced with grade 8 , 9/16
shoulder’s bolts . You mentioned replacing control arm bolts . Def replace all .
Most everyone driving a modded wrangler has had to deal with wobble . It takes a bit of trial & error to fig it out as there are a number of different problems that could be causing it . Your on the right track . If anyone at a shop or other forum suggests steering stabilizer please ignore.

Thanks. Agreed on the stabilizer. My regular shop and the last shop to do an alignment tried to get me to change out my stabilizer and I firmly said that's not the issue. My Jeep shop wants to remove it altogether, so there's that 😁

Bolt kit arrived yesterday and I'm scheduled for that install tomorrow. However, now I've been informed per my alignment specs that I have negative camber, and therefore possible axle issues.
 
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Ooh interesting observation, thanks! Yes, stock Sport axles, no reinforcements to my knowledge.

I'm very ignorant there, so forgive this question. Is that fix usually an entire new axle, or would the tube(s) need to be replaced? I firmly do not understand how a "solid" axle has pieces inside it, but i can research that on my own. You're welcome to dumb it down if you'd like, but I don't want to take up your time.

You might be able to find a 4x4 shop in your area who can fix it and add support to the axle so this doesn'thappen again. My Dana 30 had been bent as well. A 4x4 shop about an hour and a half away from me straightened it out and welded the Rough Country Dana 30 truss kit to it so it would not bend again. I want to say the truss kit was around $120, shop fees to straighten and weld in kit was another $600.
 
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Thanks. Agreed on the stabilizer. My regular shop and the last shop to do an alignment tried to get me to change out my stabilizer and I firmly said that's not the issue. My Jeep shop wants to remove it altogether, so there's that 😁

Bolt kit arrived yesterday and I'm scheduled for that install tomorrow. However, now I've been informed per my alignment specs that I have negative camber, and therefore possible axle issues.

Out of curiosity, are you working with an off-road specialty shop or an auto shop?
 
Out of curiosity, are you working with an off-road specialty shop or an auto shop?

I have 2 shops that do my work. I mostly go to my 4x4 shop unless they can't get me in. They dont have an alignment rack, so my regular auto shop has had to do it. I did manage to drive to a further 4x4 shop that has a rack, but I feel i got taken for my money there and I'm not going back.

Jeep is at the 4x4 shop I use right now. And I love them because they are very thorough and meticulous.
 
Today's work at my 4x4 shop:

-Replaced all front track bar and front LCA bolts with the grade 8 kit (bolts, washers, 14mm frame side bolt), welded on the washers for the 14mm.

-added weight to drivers front wheel (I think they came off after 2 DW last week)

-swapped front/rear drivers wheels, checked balancing on both before putting back on. Also pulled the front passenger and verified was not out of balance.

-checked ball joints, measured, all good

-6 full turns on the LCAs to bring caster down (do not know the measurements because they don't have a computer)

-straightened steering wheel

-2 test drives after all that stuff and no improvement

- checked both front wheel hubs, drivers has noise and you can feel it when you put your hand on the tire. Neither of us could see what was causing the noise, but it sounds "loose" (bolts are all tight). Passenger side you really have to work it to hear or feel anything.


So now I'm wondering if the wheel hubs are the route to go?
 
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-2 test drives after all that stuff and no improvement

- checked both front wheel hubs, drivers has noise and you can feel it when you put your hand on the tire. Neither of us could see what was causing the noise, but it sounds "loose" (bolts are all tight). Passenger side you really have to work it to hear or feel anything.


So now I'm wondering if the wheel hubs are the route to go?

When you pot-holed it, was it on the driver's side?

I'd start with the hub and work your way toward the middle. Bent or cracked driver's side steering knuckle, driver's side shaft assembly, front axle u-joint. Could be something a simple as bent wheel studs.
 
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When you pot-holed it, was it on the driver's side?

I'd start with the hub and work your way toward the middle. Bent or cracked driver's side steering knuckle, driver's side shaft assembly, front axle u-joint. Could be something a simple as bent wheel studs.

I'm almost certain this is the hole, except imagine it now being almost across the entire road. I was traveling in the opposite direction than I am in this picture when I slammed into it. The middle part historically is not deep, and I ride the edge of the road to avoid the passenger tire dropping into it because that part is deeper than the middle. That whole hole is now about 18" deep and it was closer to 6" before.

To answer your question, both tires went in, but I suppose the driver's side took the most from it.

20241126_093543.jpg
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK radiators