What are these ?

Acxman

Acxman

JK Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 2, 2022
Messages
137
Location
Washington, michigan
So, still getting to know my 2008 wrangler. Couple question you might help me with. See the three pics.

what is the u shaped bracket on the lower left side of the rear gate ?

what are the brackets located on the roll bar just behind the front seats ?

the picture of the plug and small tube which I assume has something to do with the rear window washer, but I don’t have a rear window washer control ? The manual says “ if equipped “. I have tubing going to the wiper and there is a spray nozzle ? So did they prep all the wranglers with the rear wiper and spray tubing but did not connect it unless it came as an option ?

Thanks
Tom

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Look behind the carpeting on the driver side for a wiring harness and hose for your hardtop. When you take the hardtop off that's where you would tuck it.

The bottom picture of the bracket on the roll bar is for your soft top Hardware.
 
The middle picture of the bracket by the tailgate I believe is just an alignment guide to keep things from rattling. To be honest I had to go look at mine to see if I had one.:) never really noticed it before
 
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I should add that people swap out components all the time, so if your Jeep didn't come with a hardtop you likely didn't have the control stock on the steering wheel or possibly the wiring. You can add both through a kit. I've done it on a couple of my jks, but to be honest I rarely use the wiper or washer on the hardtop.

In the resources section there's a link where you can download your build list that will tell you everything that came on your vehicle originally. Oh, and welcome to the forum ;)
 
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My 2010 sport came new with the hardtop, no soft top. I have slots on the roll bar but no brackets. Just went out to check the tail gate bracket too. My tail gate has been rattling for years, wonder if I can adjust it with the two bolts? I never use the the rear wiper and fluid either. In the winter the wiper sticks, and my rear defogger went kuput, just out of warrany. LOL
 
Here's a write up from another forum by a member that hasn't logged in in 9 years...

------------------

Tailgate Clunk Fix - Tailgate Adjustment - by Incognito
It's kind of funny, but around this time of year you hear about quite a few people experiencing "tailgate clunk". Last year (around this time) mine started making it as well, about the same time my TPMS went off. It probably has a lot to do with declining temperatures. In any event, after being thoroughly annoyed for a couple of weeks, I decided to fix it.

So long as you haven't placed excessive weight on the tailgate (i.e. oversized tires, jerry cans, ect.), the majority of these issues can be addressed by making minute adjustments to the latching assembly. The parts in particular to adjust will be the striker, stabilizer, and stabilizer cup.

Basically the way it works is, the striker is what the tailgate latches on to when it is closed. For the most part, you probably won’t need to adjust this one. Then there’s the stabilizer. This is actually what will support the majority of the tailgate on the driver’s side. This in turn goes into and mates with the stabilizer cup.

The way I adjusted mine over a year ago, and is still clunk free to this day, was to loosen and move the stabilizer up and towards the rear approximately 1-2 millimeters, just a tiny bit. This should take care of it but obviously yours may require more tweaking. The important thing here is to have your tailgate lined up perfectly with the body of the Jeep when you are done, and to not have to slam the door excessively hard afterwards. By making very small adjustments to these three components, this can be achieved. I'd suggest starting by simply adjusting the stabilizer and see if that works first before messing with the other two.

Torque values:
Striker Bolts- 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.)
Stabilizer & Stabilizer Cup Bolts- 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)

Below is the section straight out of the service manual:

Striker

NOTE: Stabilizer insert must be off when adjusting the striker.
1. Remove the stabilizer insert
2. Loosen the striker bolts.
3. Adjust the striker up/down so that it is centered within the latch opening.
4. Adjust the striker fore/aft so the swing gate is under flush to the body -0.5 mm (+/- 1.0 mm).
5. Adjust the striker cross-car engagement to the latch by adding 2.0 mm shims as necessary.

NOTE: Make sure the striker is not twisted within the latch opening. Striker should be parallel to the opening.
6. Tighten the striker bolts to 28 N•m (21 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the stabilizer insert.

Stabilizer

1. Adjust the insert up/down so that it is centered within the stabilizer cup.
2. Adjust the insert for/aft so the swing gate is 1.0 mm over flush to the D-pillar when the insert contacts the rubber bumper in the stabilizer cup.
3. Open the tail gate and tighten the bolts to 10 N•m (90 in. lbs.).

NOTE: Make sure the stabilizer cup and insert are parallel to each other and not twisted.
4. Close the tail gate and grab the beltline. Confirm minimal for/aft movement and that closing effort is not excessive. Readjust as required.

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JerryD said:
Here's a write up from another forum by a member that hasn't logged in in 9 years...

------------------

Tailgate Clunk Fix - Tailgate Adjustment - by Incognito
It's kind of funny, but around this time of year you hear about quite a few people experiencing "tailgate clunk". Last year (around this time) mine started making it as well, about the same time my TPMS went off. It probably has a lot to do with declining temperatures. In any event, after being thoroughly annoyed for a couple of weeks, I decided to fix it.

So long as you haven't placed excessive weight on the tailgate (i.e. oversized tires, jerry cans, ect.), the majority of these issues can be addressed by making minute adjustments to the latching assembly. The parts in particular to adjust will be the striker, stabilizer, and stabilizer cup.

Basically the way it works is, the striker is what the tailgate latches on to when it is closed. For the most part, you probably won’t need to adjust this one. Then there’s the stabilizer. This is actually what will support the majority of the tailgate on the driver’s side. This in turn goes into and mates with the stabilizer cup.

The way I adjusted mine over a year ago, and is still clunk free to this day, was to loosen and move the stabilizer up and towards the rear approximately 1-2 millimeters, just a tiny bit. This should take care of it but obviously yours may require more tweaking. The important thing here is to have your tailgate lined up perfectly with the body of the Jeep when you are done, and to not have to slam the door excessively hard afterwards. By making very small adjustments to these three components, this can be achieved. I'd suggest starting by simply adjusting the stabilizer and see if that works first before messing with the other two.

Torque values:
Striker Bolts- 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.)
Stabilizer & Stabilizer Cup Bolts- 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)

Below is the section straight out of the service manual:

Striker

NOTE: Stabilizer insert must be off when adjusting the striker.
1. Remove the stabilizer insert
2. Loosen the striker bolts.
3. Adjust the striker up/down so that it is centered within the latch opening.
4. Adjust the striker fore/aft so the swing gate is under flush to the body -0.5 mm (+/- 1.0 mm).
5. Adjust the striker cross-car engagement to the latch by adding 2.0 mm shims as necessary.

NOTE: Make sure the striker is not twisted within the latch opening. Striker should be parallel to the opening.
6. Tighten the striker bolts to 28 N•m (21 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the stabilizer insert.

Stabilizer

1. Adjust the insert up/down so that it is centered within the stabilizer cup.
2. Adjust the insert for/aft so the swing gate is 1.0 mm over flush to the D-pillar when the insert contacts the rubber bumper in the stabilizer cup.
3. Open the tail gate and tighten the bolts to 10 N•m (90 in. lbs.).

NOTE: Make sure the stabilizer cup and insert are parallel to each other and not twisted.
4. Close the tail gate and grab the beltline. Confirm minimal for/aft movement and that closing effort is not excessive. Readjust as required.

View attachment 122192

View attachment 122193
Click to expand...
Thanks Jerry looks like a good starting point. Torque specs too, Primo.
 
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