Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK radiators

Transmission cooler upgrade and problem solved

WSS

Certified V ¯ C L
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2025
Messages
383
Location
So. Cal.
I tackled a problem I was having with coolant temps running hotter than I like. This has been been plaguing me since I bought the Jeep. I replaced the (Ron Davis $$) radiator due to a hair line crack about a year ago. My hopes of that fixing the problem did not come to fruition!. Next, I thought maybe the trans was overheating and transferring to the AC condenser and then the radiator. I had the trans rebuilt and same issue, still running hot.

Not "overheating" hot but not where I like it. On a steep grade (freeway) it would climb to 230f and then on decent, go down to 185f (fairly fast). Crawling in 100f heat, no issues, 190 all day. So it was a flow issue I assumed.

Fast forward to a week ago. I pulled the old school tube a fin cooler that was smack in the middle of the radiator. It was not only "inefficient" but plugged with dirt on the lower half between the cooler and condenser. First improvement. Next I added two 13 row "stacked plate" coolers. These are much more efficient. They flow more air between the plates and have a much smaller footprint. I was able to put the new coolers vertical and right on a grill gap/intake. The net gain (or delta?) was 9 degrees on the same freeway grade at the same spot. I was also doing 9mph faster on the "good" test. Another thing I noticed was the temp hit 119 sooner but never climbed after that. The pre test would continually rise. The only reason I topped at 228f on the pre test was I ran out of grade to climb.

I used -8an hose through out. It looks good. For the trans exit fittings, I decided to leave them hooked up and un molested. Just looked like a hassle, clips, orings, leaks etc. For the adapter I used a 3/8 compression to -8an fitting like this:

comp to 8an.jpg


I put a tiny amount of oil resistant silicone on the ferrule before I tightened on the ferrule. Not sure if it helped but there are no leaks anywhere (as of yet lol).

Here is a couple of pics of the test on my ScanGauge III:

IMG_0392.JPG


IMG_1663.JPG


I will post some project pics a little later today. I have to go back to work before anyone catches my goofing off.
 
What did you replace the radiator with? I've always been under the impression anything except OEM is a waste of money because they all break eventually.
 
Right at the start. Grille and old cooler pulled, it was about 12 x 11 inch and sat right in the center of the condenser. I laid a new stacked plate cooler on the bumper to get fit up.

IMG_1618.JPG


I made a couple of mounts to hold off the two new coolers. I welded the bottom mounts and bolted the top mounts to some existing holes that I was able to tap 5/16" coarse thread

IMG_1620.JPG


IMG_1623.JPG


From there it was easy to bend the top mount to make clearance for the grille. There is about 1/4" gap at grille and 1-3/4" air gap between coolers and condenser.

IMG_1622.JPG



Here it is mounted and hoses connected:

IMG_1656.JPG


I also recovered the cracking split loom with some split self closing covers:

IMG_1619.JPG


For the trans tubes to an hose I used the compression fittings shown above. I cut the tubes at different lengths to make a tighter fit. I pulled a oil pan bolt to hold a trans tube mount. The tubes are solid now. The lines float easy. here you can see them stubbed out with a silicone plug in the ends.

IMG_1651.JPG


The mount and clamps:

IMG_1657.JPG


The hose routing, they do not touch any edges or moving parts, about an 1" over the crossbar. I like the setup.

IMG_1659.JPG
 
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: pc1p and Chris
What did you replace the radiator with? I've always been under the impression anything except OEM is a waste of money because they all break eventually.

It had a Ron Davis kit in it. The radiator was from 2009. After it was sold by the original builder (the owner of discount tire) it sat for long periods of time by the ocean. The OE radiator would not be able to cool the Hemi. It is a very expensive system as I found out. The whole kit with fans, cowling and logic was $3200!! I was lucky enough to have him build me just the radiator for $1800. I get he is a race car cooling expert but dang.


https://www.rondavisradiators.com/Welcome.htm
 
The OE radiator would not be able to cool the Hemi. It is a very expensive system as I found out.
I hope that isn't the case!

According to JSS and AEV, the 3.6L has a higher BTU load than a stock 392 Hemi, so as long as you can get the airflow you need, the OEM radiator should be sufficient. I'll likely be upgrading to the 3.6L fan, if I have the room, but if not, I'll go to the Camaro setup. Fingers crossed I don't need an aftermarket radiator since they all f*&$*$% suck donkey d*$@...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cimmerian and WSS
I hope that isn't the case!

According to JSS and AEV, the 3.6L has a higher BTU load than a stock 392 Hemi, so as long as you can get the airflow you need, the OEM radiator should be sufficient. I'll likely be upgrading to the 3.6L fan, if I have the room, but if not, I'll go to the Camaro setup. Fingers crossed I don't need an aftermarket radiator since they all f*&$*$% suck donkey d*$@...

All of my info is second hand from the previous owner. I had never heard of Ron Davis before this Jeep. The po said the cooling setup was part of the package. I believe it was rebuilt in Phoenix or maybe Gilbert az (2009) The main swap hardware and computer was from hemiswap.com. They are out o business so my research is iffy. I know part of the rebuild was the cooling system. It’s big, bigger than stock.
 
Nice job. Gotta say Im shocked anybody still uses a tube and fin cooler as a OEM install. Maybe for a PS fluid cooler, but not the trans.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK radiators