Poor braking

Spark4

New Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
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Location
Virginia
Looking for answers. Had brake woes for a few months now that started in May with a caliper seizing up in the middle of nowhere. Changed that one out then. Over the past two months pedal getting softer.
Replaced master cylinder, the other three calipers, replaced brake lines with stainless steel braided lines, master cylinder again just in case it was a defective one that got put on, replaced reservoir. Brake lines were bled manually and scan bled several times over the past 5 weeks as these repair have been made. After the second master cylinder change the BRAKE light came on and has been burning since. At some point in the repair process the low fuel light came on as well and also still lit. The only thing left to replace in the system is the ABS module and I would think if it was the problem the abs light would be on as well. Brakes are so soft now I had to move my seat forward so I can push the pedal all the way to the floor to stop. Idk if the low fuel light is in any way related but never had problems out of it before. Maybe something electrical?? I really have no idea so any thoughts or advice is much appreciated. Also rotors and pads are good all around.

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The ABS module is not your problem, like you said the ABS would be on. Usually a soft pedal means air in the lines, have you been bleeding them or a shop?

What year is this JK?
 
That really sounds like air in the system to me.

Make sure the brake fluid is full at all times. If it gets empty at any point you have to start the whole thing over again.

It could also be that a connection is not as tight as it should be and is sucking air in. There would be a leak in that location.

Is this a shop or are you doing the work?
 
That really sounds like air in the system to me.

Make sure the brake fluid is full at all times. If it gets empty at any point you have to start the whole thing over again.

It could also be that a connection is not as tight as it should be and is sucking air in. There would be a leak in that location.

Is this a shop or are you doing the work?
Thanks. Shop is bleeding manually and doing a scan bleed but might be time to find a new shop.
 
has this same shop been doing all the work and having you replace all this stuff? Braking systems are not complicated and while initial diagnosing can go wrong, replacing the whole system should only happen in the most extreme cases. It sounds like your brakes are worse than when they started.

Certainly find a different shop, something is wrong here. I would call the manager and see what they will do for you seeing as how they have milked you for all that money and the problem is still there.

Somebody in that shop doesn't know how to bleed brakes. All new lines like that take more than normal bleeding. There is going to be a bunch of air trapped all along the line that has to be worked to one end or the other. This takes quite a bit of brake fluid to flush out all the air, and like I said, the moment somebody forgets to top off the reservoir it's back to square one.
 
What is a scan bleed? When bleeding brake lines you start at the passenger rear tire first, then the driver rear, then passenger front the driver front. While watching the reservoir the entire time. Loosen the bleed screw, press on the brake pedal to the floor. Make sure the bleed screw is tightened before you let up on the brake pedal or you can suck air back I to the caliper. This has to be done several times on each wheel.. It can be a long process and use a lot of break fluid.
 
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Having just replaced my rotors, calipers and pads myself, it definitely sounds like air in the system. Spring for some speed bleeders (one way valve) and bleed them yourself. As previously mentioned, make sure the master cylinder stays full.
 
What is a scan bleed? When bleeding brake lines you start at the passenger rear tire first, then the driver rear, then passenger front the driver front. While watching the reservoir the entire time. Loosen the bleed screw, press on the brake pedal to the floor. Make sure the bleed screw is tightened before you let up on the brake pedal or you can suck air back I to the caliper. This has to be done several times on each wheel.. It can be a long process and use a lot of break fluid.
I'm guessing a scan bleed is what needs to be done if the ABS module gets air in it. Pretty sure jScan can run an activation of the abs to get the air out.
 
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