IOD and WCM issues 2013

Andyjohnston110

Andyjohnston110

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Jul 18, 2021
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Location
Cotati California
Thanks for taking a look,

2013 Wrangler Sport 2dr
~128,000 mi

This all started with a parasitic draw with ignition off. It initially smoked my OEM battery finally, or what I think was the OEM battery. Replaced with new Optima red top, ran an IOD test and found it was somewhere around 1.47 Amps. Upon removing IOD fuse M13 and the Amplifier fuse it was down to .28 Amps and I couldn’t get it any lower than that and I believe that is something it can live with.

However after reinstalling the fuses the Jeep wouldn’t start, found the starter fuse to be blown, replaced it and then the Jeep started and died after a few seconds. Then trying to restart it would just crank and crank and not fire. More googling and forum research I found to pull the big white IOD fuse to reset. Pulled it waited 60 sec and re installed. Now Jeep won’t crank at all and just clicks, swapped starter relays, even pulled starter relay and jumpered it from positive post to Fuse box and got the starter to crank but it still wouldn’t fire with the key in the on position.

More googling, more forum research brings up WCM issue which looks like it was resolved after 2008 however I decided to try and see what I could find. Well ended up breaking the WCM trying to remove, literally barely touched it and it pulled in half ripping the connection from the circuit board. So where I am going with all this is, is it possible I messed up the WCM during the IOD test and does the new WCM I ordered need to be programmed with my keys? Also if that gets it to start what do I do about the 1.47 Amp draw while off, the Jeep won’t start without the amp fuse or the IOD fuse M13?

New Jeep owner here, I searched and searched and couldn‘t find a thread 2013 WCM specific.


Thanks in advance.
 
Andyjohnston110 said:
Thanks for taking a look,

2013 Wrangler Sport 2dr
~128,000 mi

This all started with a parasitic draw with ignition off. It initially smoked my OEM battery finally, or what I think was the OEM battery. Replaced with new Optima red top, ran an IOD test and found it was somewhere around 1.47 Amps. Upon removing IOD fuse M13 and the Amplifier fuse it was down to .28 Amps and I couldn’t get it any lower than that and I believe that is something it can live with.

However after reinstalling the fuses the Jeep wouldn’t start, found the starter fuse to be blown, replaced it and then the Jeep started and died after a few seconds. Then trying to restart it would just crank and crank and not fire. More googling and forum research I found to pull the big white IOD fuse to reset. Pulled it waited 60 sec and re installed. Now Jeep won’t crank at all and just clicks, swapped starter relays, even pulled starter relay and jumpered it from positive post to Fuse box and got the starter to crank but it still wouldn’t fire with the key in the on position.

More googling, more forum research brings up WCM issue which looks like it was resolved after 2008 however I decided to try and see what I could find. Well ended up breaking the WCM trying to remove, literally barely touched it and it pulled in half ripping the connection from the circuit board. So where I am going with all this is, is it possible I messed up the WCM during the IOD test and does the new WCM I ordered need to be programmed with my keys? Also if that gets it to start what do I do about the 1.47 Amp draw while off, the Jeep won’t start without the amp fuse or the IOD fuse M13?

New Jeep owner here, I searched and searched and couldn‘t find a thread 2013 WCM specific.


Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Are you having the little red dot in the upper right of your dash cluster?
 
BLACKJKU said:
A weak battery in your key FOB has caused problems with a couple members recently also.
Click to expand...
Im not 100% sure but the chip in the key is recognized by the ignition regardless of a dead battery in the fob no? Battery would only effect the keys ability to send a lock/unlock signal.

Also the vehicle has been wired with an aftermarket remote start and I tried using that, it would just crank and crank no start.

Now it does nothing 😒 and I can’t really further diagnose with the WCM being removed.
 
Andyjohnston110 said:
Im not 100% sure but the chip in the key is recognized by the ignition regardless of a dead battery in the fob no? Battery would only effect the keys ability to send a lock/unlock signal.

Also the vehicle has been wired with an aftermarket remote start and I tried using that, it would just crank and crank no start.

Now it does nothing 😒 and I can’t really further diagnose with the WCM being removed.
Click to expand...

I would test the FOB battery or replace it, could be a cheap fix.
 
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