Shock absorbers use hydraulic fluid and gas to dampen movement as the shock compresses. Without a shock absorber, the coil spring and tires would provide the only cushioning. This would lead to bounciness and jarring, making your JK hard to withstand while driving. Shocks are a heavily used part that must remain leak-free. When a shock absorber breaks, you may notice your JK sagging on a corner or excessive play in the steering while driving over bumps. The shock absorbers are a fairly easy item to replace. They are often one of the first components swapped when modifying the JK for off-road performance.
How to Install Shock Absorbers
Materials Needed
Front Shock Absorbers
Step 1 – Raise and remove the front wheels
Engage the parking brake. If you don't have an impact wrench capable of removing lug nuts, loosen the lug nuts a full turn with the tires on the ground. Place the floor jacks pad under one of the front jacking points. Raise the vehicle high enough to place a jack stand beside it on the jacking point and lower the vehicle onto the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts with a 3/4" or 19mm socket.
Figure 1. The jacking points.
Step 2 – Remove the lower shock mounting bolts
Locate the front shock absorbers. They are beside the coil springs. Two bolts hold the bottom of the shock to the axle. Use a 13mm shallow or deep socket to remove the nuts on the mounting bolts. Hold the mounting bolts stationary while you're loosening the nuts.
Figure 2. The lower shock bolts.
Step 3 – Remove the upper shock retaining nut
Remove the nut on the top of the shock by feeding a deep 15mm socket with a 6" extension through the hole on the shock tower. Your factory shock may have two upper nuts instead of one. Place a wrench on the nut below the shock tower. This nut is apart of the shock and keeps the shock from turning while loosening the upper nut. If this nut is not apart of your shock, attach a pair of vice grips to the shock to prevent it from turning.
Figure 3. Reaching the upper shock nut through the shock tower.
Figure 4. Using vice grips to keep the shock from turning.
Step 4 – Remove the shock
Compress the shock with your hands until the top of the shock can be moved out of the shock tower. Use a pair of pliers or vice grips to maintain grip with the shock.
Figure 5. Compressing the shock to remove it from the vehicle.
Step 5 – Install the new shock
Assemble your new shock, noting the position of bushings and boots. There should be a bushing on each side of the shock tower. Read through your shocks installation instructions for specifics during this step, as they vary by manufacturer.
As your mounting the bottom of the shock to the axle, install both bolts into the mounting brackets at the same time. This will keep the shock flat against the bracket, making installation easier.
Tighten the upper nut to 20 ft/lbs and the bottom nuts to 50 ft/lbs. Re-install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a star pattern.
Rear Shock Absorbers
Step 1 – Raise and remove the rear wheels
Place wheel chocks in front and behind one of the front wheels. Follow the same instructions found in Step 1 of the front shock replacement how-to.
Step 2 – Remove the upper shock mounting bolts
Locate the upper bolts holding the top of the rear shock to the frame. Remove these with a 5/8" socket. You'll need a 6" extension, as well.
Figure 6. Removing the bolts at the top of the rear shock.
Step 3 – Remove the lower bolt from the shock
To remove this bolt, you must hold the nut stationary. Use a wrench and socket combination to remove the nut, and then pry upwards on the bottom of the shock to slide it out of the axle bracket.
Figure 7. The lower rear shock mounting bolt.
Step 4 – Install the new shock
Install the upper portion of the new shock, but don't fully tighten the bolts. To install the bottom bolt, you'll need to compress the shock by hand far enough to slide it back into the axle bracket. The bolt hole in the shock and bracket will not line up until the shock is slightly compressed. Keep pressure against the shock with a pry bar while tightening the lower bolt.
Torque the upper bolts to 40 ft/lbs and the lower bolt to 50 ft/lbs. Re-install the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs. Tighten them in a star pattern.
How to Install Shock Absorbers
Materials Needed
- Floor Jack
- Jack stands (x2)
- 19mm or 3/4" socket
- Wheel chocks (rear shocks only)
- Impact wrench (optional)
- 1/2" ratchet
- 13mm deep and shallow socket
- 15mm deep socket
- Vice grips
- 3/8" ratchet
- 6" 3/8" extension
- 13mm wrench
- 1/2" torque wrench
- 5/8" socket (rear shocks)
- 18mm wrench rear shocks)
- Pry bar (rear shocks)
Front Shock Absorbers
Step 1 – Raise and remove the front wheels
Engage the parking brake. If you don't have an impact wrench capable of removing lug nuts, loosen the lug nuts a full turn with the tires on the ground. Place the floor jacks pad under one of the front jacking points. Raise the vehicle high enough to place a jack stand beside it on the jacking point and lower the vehicle onto the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts with a 3/4" or 19mm socket.
Figure 1. The jacking points.
Step 2 – Remove the lower shock mounting bolts
Locate the front shock absorbers. They are beside the coil springs. Two bolts hold the bottom of the shock to the axle. Use a 13mm shallow or deep socket to remove the nuts on the mounting bolts. Hold the mounting bolts stationary while you're loosening the nuts.
Figure 2. The lower shock bolts.
Step 3 – Remove the upper shock retaining nut
Remove the nut on the top of the shock by feeding a deep 15mm socket with a 6" extension through the hole on the shock tower. Your factory shock may have two upper nuts instead of one. Place a wrench on the nut below the shock tower. This nut is apart of the shock and keeps the shock from turning while loosening the upper nut. If this nut is not apart of your shock, attach a pair of vice grips to the shock to prevent it from turning.
Figure 3. Reaching the upper shock nut through the shock tower.
Figure 4. Using vice grips to keep the shock from turning.
Step 4 – Remove the shock
Compress the shock with your hands until the top of the shock can be moved out of the shock tower. Use a pair of pliers or vice grips to maintain grip with the shock.
Figure 5. Compressing the shock to remove it from the vehicle.
Step 5 – Install the new shock
Assemble your new shock, noting the position of bushings and boots. There should be a bushing on each side of the shock tower. Read through your shocks installation instructions for specifics during this step, as they vary by manufacturer.
As your mounting the bottom of the shock to the axle, install both bolts into the mounting brackets at the same time. This will keep the shock flat against the bracket, making installation easier.
Tighten the upper nut to 20 ft/lbs and the bottom nuts to 50 ft/lbs. Re-install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a star pattern.
Rear Shock Absorbers
Step 1 – Raise and remove the rear wheels
Place wheel chocks in front and behind one of the front wheels. Follow the same instructions found in Step 1 of the front shock replacement how-to.
Step 2 – Remove the upper shock mounting bolts
Locate the upper bolts holding the top of the rear shock to the frame. Remove these with a 5/8" socket. You'll need a 6" extension, as well.
Figure 6. Removing the bolts at the top of the rear shock.
Step 3 – Remove the lower bolt from the shock
To remove this bolt, you must hold the nut stationary. Use a wrench and socket combination to remove the nut, and then pry upwards on the bottom of the shock to slide it out of the axle bracket.
Figure 7. The lower rear shock mounting bolt.
Step 4 – Install the new shock
Install the upper portion of the new shock, but don't fully tighten the bolts. To install the bottom bolt, you'll need to compress the shock by hand far enough to slide it back into the axle bracket. The bolt hole in the shock and bracket will not line up until the shock is slightly compressed. Keep pressure against the shock with a pry bar while tightening the lower bolt.
Torque the upper bolts to 40 ft/lbs and the lower bolt to 50 ft/lbs. Re-install the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs. Tighten them in a star pattern.