How to install an air intake on a Jeep Wrangler JK

Chris

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Air intakes reduce engine intake temperatures by moving the intake opening away from the engine's heat. Reduced engine temperatures creates a denser air intake charge, which combines with more fuel to generate more power. Performance air intakes use a high flowing synthetic filter and an aluminum or polyethylene tube. These materials are constructed with smooth bends to reduce restriction and keep intake flow high.

How to Install an Air Intake
Dec-29-Air-Intake-124953.png


Materials Needed
  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Ratchet
  • Extension
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 4mm Allen wrench
This guide is based off the K&N cold air intake installation.

From 2007 to 2011, the Jeep JK used the 3.8 liter engine. The JK now uses the 3.6 liter Pentastar engine. Although the steps are similar for intake installation, the locations of bolts and electrical connectors is different. These differences will be highlighted during the guide.

Step 1 – Disconnect negative battery cable
Use your 10mm socket and disconnect the negative (black) battery terminal. Refer to the article How to Replace the Battery on a Jeep Wrangler JK.

Step 2 – Remove your engine cover
The engine cover needs to be removed for access, pop it off and set it aside.

Refer to the article How to Replace the Camshaft Position Sensor on a Jeep Wrangler JK for detailed instructions. This step is not required for the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 3 – Remove the air intake tube
Start by removing the two bolts holding the intake tube to the air shroud. Remove the rubber line from the intake tube by pulling it out of the tube grommets.

Loosen the worm gear hose clamps at the air box and throttle body with a flat head screwdriver. Pull and twist the intake tube off the throttle body, but be careful as the air inlet temperature sensor connector is still attached. The sensor is located on the left side of the intake pipe near the throttle body. Disconnect the sensor by squeezing the flexible tab on the connector and simultaneously pulling the connector away from the sensor. Twist and pull the intake tube off the air box.

On the 3.8 liter, the I.A.T. sensor is located on the right side of the intake tube near the throttle body. The connector style is different. To disconnect it, slide the red locking tab up and squeeze the flexible tab while pulling the connector away from the intake tube.

124355-124702.jpg

Figure 1. The intake tube to air shroud bolts.


124357-124704.jpg

Figure 2. Removing the intake tube from the throttle body.


124363-124706.jpg

Figure 3. Removing the I.A.T. sensor on the 3.8 liter.

Step 4 – Remove the air filter housing
Disconnect the crankcase rubber vent hose from the plastic vent tube. Carefully pull and twist the rubber off the plastic, then lift up and remove the air box.

On the 3.8 liter engine, the crankcase hose connects to the air box. Once it's removed, loosen the clamp holding the intake tube to the throttle body, and pull upwards on the air box to dislodge it from the mounting grommets.

124359-124710.png

Figure 4. The crankcase hose location.


124365-124712.png

Figure 5. Removing the air box from the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 5 – Install the new air filter box
This step will vary by manufacturer, as each uses their own style of air box. Start by removing the bolt connecting the air box mount bracket to the inner fender. Also, remove the bolt that secures the radiator to the core support. Install the brackets, lid, and trim to the new heat shield. Leave off the top lid for now. Place the heat shield into the vehicle and tighten down the mounting bolts. This includes the two bolts removed from the air box mounting bracket and radiator core support. Install the new air filter into the air box and secure it with a hose clamp. Install the air box cover lid, making sure the lid mounting brackets are correctly positioned to create an air tight seal in the air box.

If you have a 3.8 liter engine, you'll need to remove both bolts from the air box mounting bracket and the power steering reservoir bolt. K&N also has you remove a bolt to the right of the power steering pump pulley to mount a bracket.

124361-124714.jpg

Figure 6. The air box mounting bracket bolt.


124367-124716.jpg

Figure 7. The power steering pump reservoir bolt.


124369-124718.jpg

Figure 8. Installing the new bracket on the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 6 – Install the new intake pipe
Install the new hose onto the air box and throttle body. Secure the hose to each with hose clamps. Before installing the new pipe, you'll need to screw the new vent fitting into the intake tube and remove/install the air temp sensor. The air temp sensor slides into a rubber grommet. Gently twist/pull it from the factory intake tube. Applying a small amount of Vaseline to the rubber grommet makes installation easier. Slide the new vent hose onto the vent fitting. The new intake may no longer have locations for the two air shroud mounting bolts. Zip tie the coolant overflow hose to a nearby component to achieve a factory style route if no new mounts are included. Now install the intake pipe into the air box and throttle body and tighten down the required hose clamps. Re-connect the crankcase vent hose to the vent tube and the I.A.T. sensor to the electrical connector. Finish the installation by re-installing the engine cover and re-connecting the negative battery cable.

Remember to re-install the power steering reservoir pump bolt for 3.8 liter engine owners.

To test for leaks, first start the engine. Listen for any hissing noises around the intake piping. If you have propane available, spray some around the intake tube connections. Rising engine RPMs while emitting propane indicates an air leak.
 
Did you do a 3 month pre installation diary on fuel useage ?
And a 3 month follow up for post installation?
And how about dyno sheets before and after ??

Your first paragraph makes claims that can’t be backed up without documentation..... let’s see the docs
 
Air intakes reduce engine intake temperatures by moving the intake opening away from the engine's heat. Reduced engine temperatures creates a denser air intake charge, which combines with more fuel to generate more power. Performance air intakes use a high flowing synthetic filter and an aluminum or polyethylene tube. These materials are constructed with smooth bends to reduce restriction and keep intake flow high.

How to Install an Air Intake
View attachment 113190

Materials Needed
  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Ratchet
  • Extension
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 4mm Allen wrench
This guide is based off the K&N cold air intake installation.

From 2007 to 2011, the Jeep JK used the 3.8 liter engine. The JK now uses the 3.6 liter Pentastar engine. Although the steps are similar for intake installation, the locations of bolts and electrical connectors is different. These differences will be highlighted during the guide.

Step 1 – Disconnect negative battery cable
Use your 10mm socket and disconnect the negative (black) battery terminal. Refer to the article How to Replace the Battery on a Jeep Wrangler JK.

Step 2 – Remove your engine cover
The engine cover needs to be removed for access, pop it off and set it aside.

Refer to the article How to Replace the Camshaft Position Sensor on a Jeep Wrangler JK for detailed instructions. This step is not required for the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 3 – Remove the air intake tube
Start by removing the two bolts holding the intake tube to the air shroud. Remove the rubber line from the intake tube by pulling it out of the tube grommets.

Loosen the worm gear hose clamps at the air box and throttle body with a flat head screwdriver. Pull and twist the intake tube off the throttle body, but be careful as the air inlet temperature sensor connector is still attached. The sensor is located on the left side of the intake pipe near the throttle body. Disconnect the sensor by squeezing the flexible tab on the connector and simultaneously pulling the connector away from the sensor. Twist and pull the intake tube off the air box.

On the 3.8 liter, the I.A.T. sensor is located on the right side of the intake tube near the throttle body. The connector style is different. To disconnect it, slide the red locking tab up and squeeze the flexible tab while pulling the connector away from the intake tube.

View attachment 113191
Figure 1. The intake tube to air shroud bolts.


View attachment 113192
Figure 2. Removing the intake tube from the throttle body.


View attachment 113193
Figure 3. Removing the I.A.T. sensor on the 3.8 liter.

Step 4 – Remove the air filter housing
Disconnect the crankcase rubber vent hose from the plastic vent tube. Carefully pull and twist the rubber off the plastic, then lift up and remove the air box.

On the 3.8 liter engine, the crankcase hose connects to the air box. Once it's removed, loosen the clamp holding the intake tube to the throttle body, and pull upwards on the air box to dislodge it from the mounting grommets.

View attachment 113194
Figure 4. The crankcase hose location.


View attachment 113195
Figure 5. Removing the air box from the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 5 – Install the new air filter box
This step will vary by manufacturer, as each uses their own style of air box. Start by removing the bolt connecting the air box mount bracket to the inner fender. Also, remove the bolt that secures the radiator to the core support. Install the brackets, lid, and trim to the new heat shield. Leave off the top lid for now. Place the heat shield into the vehicle and tighten down the mounting bolts. This includes the two bolts removed from the air box mounting bracket and radiator core support. Install the new air filter into the air box and secure it with a hose clamp. Install the air box cover lid, making sure the lid mounting brackets are correctly positioned to create an air tight seal in the air box.

If you have a 3.8 liter engine, you'll need to remove both bolts from the air box mounting bracket and the power steering reservoir bolt. K&N also has you remove a bolt to the right of the power steering pump pulley to mount a bracket.

View attachment 113196
Figure 6. The air box mounting bracket bolt.


View attachment 113197
Figure 7. The power steering pump reservoir bolt.


View attachment 113198
Figure 8. Installing the new bracket on the 3.8 liter engine.

Step 6 – Install the new intake pipe
Install the new hose onto the air box and throttle body. Secure the hose to each with hose clamps. Before installing the new pipe, you'll need to screw the new vent fitting into the intake tube and remove/install the air temp sensor. The air temp sensor slides into a rubber grommet. Gently twist/pull it from the factory intake tube. Applying a small amount of Vaseline to the rubber grommet makes installation easier. Slide the new vent hose onto the vent fitting. The new intake may no longer have locations for the two air shroud mounting bolts. Zip tie the coolant overflow hose to a nearby component to achieve a factory style route if no new mounts are included. Now install the intake pipe into the air box and throttle body and tighten down the required hose clamps. Re-connect the crankcase vent hose to the vent tube and the I.A.T. sensor to the electrical connector. Finish the installation by re-installing the engine cover and re-connecting the negative battery cable.

Remember to re-install the power steering reservoir pump bolt for 3.8 liter engine owners.

To test for leaks, first start the engine. Listen for any hissing noises around the intake piping. If you have propane available, spray some around the intake tube connections. Rising engine RPMs while emitting propane indicates an air leak.
My K&N was very easy to install.

06618F14-F6AB-4288-BCEE-B4FB1F34101E.jpeg
 
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Did you do a 3 month pre installation diary on fuel useage ?
And a 3 month follow up for post installation?
And how about dyno sheets before and after ??

Your first paragraph makes claims that can’t be backed up without documentation..... let’s see the docs
come on buddy, easy now... easy... go and take your pill, it's going to be okay.
1580648055566.png
 
come on buddy, easy now... easy... go and take your pill, it's going to be okay.
View attachment 114236

That’s a little harsh.... I was just asking for some data. REAL proof that cold air intakes actually do what they claim they do.
We all know they do more damage than good, but despite the reality, and lack of evidence, people keep on buying them....
I’d love to be proven wrong in this
 
That’s a little harsh.... I was just asking for some data. REAL proof that cold air intakes actually do what they claim they do.
We all know they do more damage than good, but despite the reality, and lack of evidence, people keep on buying them....
I’d love to be proven wrong in this
Sorry I was just messing with you :)
 
That’s a little harsh.... I was just asking for some data. REAL proof that cold air intakes actually do what they claim they do.
We all know they do more damage than good, but despite the reality, and lack of evidence, people keep on buying them....
I’d love to be proven wrong in this
HARM?!?! You’re joking right?
Did you do a 3 month pre installation diary on fuel useage ?
And a 3 month follow up for post installation?
And how about dyno sheets before and after ??

Your first paragraph makes claims that can’t be backed up without documentation..... let’s see the docs
Please go to the snowflake forum. We don’t want you here
 
Thanks for this post! I actually signed on to see what kind of "how-to's" are on here atm, im currently waiting on a stage 1 performance kit with CAI by Jammer. its coming with a Superchips Powerpaq tuner, gonna make some loadouts for eco mode - highway mode- and (fuckin) send it mode. cant wait to play with it! other than that, got me some nerf bars for the running boards, supposed to get those tomorrow, two light bars (im gonna be that guy) and an A frame switch pod for them. little do dads here and there. CAI comes this next week so glad to see this post! thanks!
 
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Reactions: Mrriverajr
Thanks for this post! I actually signed on to see what kind of "how-to's" are on here atm, im currently waiting on a stage 1 performance kit with CAI by Jammer. its coming with a Superchips Powerpaq tuner, gonna make some loadouts for eco mode - highway mode- and (fuckin) send it mode. cant wait to play with it! other than that, got me some nerf bars for the running boards, supposed to get those tomorrow, two light bars (im gonna be that guy) and an A frame switch pod for them. little do dads here and there. CAI comes this next week so glad to see this post! thanks!
Keep us posted.