Double D’s (DrDmoney and wife D——-‘s) 2017 JKUHR

DrDmoney

2017 JKUR
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2019
Messages
73
Location
El Dorado, Ca
We bought our Rubicon Hard Rock (nicknamed J. Kase short for just in case) as a go between vehicle for hauling the dogs around, some mild wheeling, and overlanding trips. It was supposed to do the dirty work for the wife’s Range Rover Sport but replaced it instead.
Even though it was the HardRock Edition, it still needed a “few” mods to make it Trail Dependable, just in case.
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I believe these two were quarreling, that’s why the one on the right is angry.
 
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I believe the Hard Rock package was around 5k new. I think it's worth the cost though. You get the bumpers, hood, rock rails, and a few other bits. Mopar quality though, which is worth the money since you know it's factory quality and fit.
 
So I’ve never owned a Jeep that I left stock, this one made it 800 miles before the AEV 3.5” DualSport lift was installed, it comes with Bilstein 5160’s and a ProCal Module.
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Wheels are Fuel JM2 Jeremy McGrath Signature Series and tires are NITTO Ridge Grapplers

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The spare was a little low on the factory mount, the lift comes with an adapter to move the tire up but it also moves it out farther, also the CHMSL had to go. I made my own tire adapter that moved the tire out only1/2”

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When I removed the CHMSL, I also did the spare tire mount license plate using LED light bolts on the plate to replace the CHMSL followed by PSC Bruiser Bumpers. I removed the 10A bumpers and put them with the rest of my Jeep parts. Install was textbook per the instructions


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I wanted to install an O.B.A. system for tire inflation, I chose the ARB CKMA12 High Output Air Compressor. This compressor’s sole use will be tire inflation and the ARB single is more than capable of this task. I had done lots of research on mounting locations for compressors in the JKU and none of them appealed to me. I had looked into mounting a compressor under the spare tire mount on a TJ before and the JK’s O.E. Mount has more than enough room under it.
I decided on the best direction to locate it based on routing of wiring, remote air filter location, and air chuck location. I used a 1/2” thick 6061 extruded “T” shape that was extra on a job.

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This compressor easily fits under the mount and is less obtrusive than the engine bay or under seat mounting options. It also moves the inflation operation to the back where the air hose is kept. After cutting the aluminum bracket to fit, I drilled and tapped it for all fasteners. I wanted the air chuck to come up behind the tire so whenever the tailgate was open I would have access to the switch and the chuck.

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For power I used 6ga wire to run a 40 amp fused positive and negative wires directly to the battery, also the install wiring harness comes with all the switch wiring for lockers and power. Since I wouldn’t be needing all that I pared it down to the necessary wires and rewrapped the harness with tape. I wanted the air filter to be inside the tailgate so I plumbed it through the tailgate along with running the wires through existing grommets. The on off switch was mounted next to the rear 12v power outlet.

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I forgot to mention I installed the Teraflex Alpha HD hinged tire carrier. This thing is SOLID and a little pricey you can save a little money by reusing your spare mount like I did and make a 2” offset mount to get the tire up higher for a 35.
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This thing is drilled and tapped for all sorts of accessories to mount on it.
 
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I forgot to mention I installed the Teraflex Alpha HD hinged tire carrier. This thing is SOLID and a little pricey you can save a little money by reusing your spare mount like I did and make a 2” offset mount to get the tire up higher for a 35.View attachment 112781View attachment 112782

This thing is drilled and tapped for all sorts of accessories to mount on it.
I have the same carrier. Sturdy for sure
 
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Fixed my imaginary hood flutter issue today. I really liked the way the factory JL latches work so that’s the way I went, pretty simple install, here’s some pics.

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the bottom half is held on by 1 nut it takes a 13mm socket, I used a 3/8” drive but a 1/4” might fit better, I had to fish the ratchet up in between the fender and the brace, there is nothing else to remove to get to it.

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the top you will need a 10mm socket, keep an eye on it cause they like to wander off.

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the alignment nubs aren’t the same spacing and some people drill the holes in the hood larger, I didnt go that route because it’s not that critical if they are there. You can cut them off or cut them down so they fit, I cut them down but if I was to do it again I would cut them off Because it’s easier to align the two halves.

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