Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK shifters

42RLE transmission rebuild or upgrade?

Spivey13

New Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
6
Location
62675
I'm new to jeeps i just bought my 2011 jku about 3 month ago it has 99k miles on it now and had 35s when I bought it with nothing else done really to support them. I just re geared to 4.88s. But before I could my torque converter has gone bad. I'm now needing to either rebuild or replace my transmission. I'm wondering if the stock transmissions are junk and I should look for a heavier duty one when I replace or if they actually are beefy enough factory especially now that I have re geared my jeep? I don't want to have this problem again
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dirty Dog
The 42RLE is a fine transmission. Rebuild it. The gear swap you did is not going to hurt it in any way. If anything, having the proper gearing will make the entire drivetrain work less.
Thanks for responding, so if I just got my factory trans rebuilt local shop says it will cost around 2400. They said they could do a hd torque converter for around 2800. Would that be a good idea to have done? I don't want this issue again and in the next few years would hope to make possibly some very extensive road trips. So I'm wanting this issue solved hopefully
 
Thanks for responding, so if I just got my factory trans rebuilt local shop says it will cost around 2400. They said they could do a hd torque converter for around 2800. Would that be a good idea to have done? I don't want this issue again and in the next few years would hope to make possibly some very extensive road trips. So I'm wanting this issue solved hopefully
How are they defining "HD torque converter"?

If they're talking about changing the stall speed, then... it depends on what you want from the vehicle. A low stall speed helps with early lockup and can be beneficial offroad. A higher stall speed (also called a loose converter) will move the engine higher in the RPM range earlier, which can help with performance. You will see these used a lot on performance cars.

Personally, I think the OEM stall speed is about perfect for a mixed-use daily driver. I wouldn't change it without a specific need.

If they're just talking about the components being stronger, or using a converter with more than one disk, then in general stronger is better, in just about every context. However, stronger also often means heavier, and adding weight will have a negative impact on mileage and performance. So that's a tradeoff.

I think unless you're really planning to boost power or add a LOT of modifications and then really pound on it, the OEM TC is fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mrjp and BigAL07
How are they defining "HD torque converter"?

If they're talking about changing the stall speed, then... it depends on what you want from the vehicle. A low stall speed helps with early lockup and can be beneficial offroad. A higher stall speed (also called a loose converter) will move the engine higher in the RPM range earlier, which can help with performance. You will see these used a lot on performance cars.

Personally, I think the OEM stall speed is about perfect for a mixed-use daily driver. I wouldn't change it without a specific need.

If they're just talking about the components being stronger, or using a converter with more than one disk, then in general stronger is better, in just about every context. However, stronger also often means heavier, and adding weight will have a negative impact on mileage and performance. So that's a tradeoff.

I think unless you're really planning to boost power or add a LOT of modifications and then really pound on it, the OEM TC is fine.
My biggest hope is not having to replace the trans again lol I know so much factors into that but... I have added a poison spyder front bumper i plan to a rear from them and side rails. They are all pretty heavy stuff and eventually I'm hoping to add a rack on top with a roof tent, then travel the country is my wish. So I will be adding a decent amount of weight eventually and hope to travel long distance and trail ride. Atleast that is my plan currently so I'm hoping to build this right for what I want as I need to. I may like to tow a small trailer from time to time as well but do not have to. Knowing all that, would the factory everything still be enough or? I have no sense at all how strong the factory trans could be mine has been junk since I've had it in the jeep I have. Shift points were totally off when I bought it bc of tires, speedometer was way off then the torque converter stopped locking up so it has been everywhere for me in the last 3 months I have no good baseline how it should be
 
I also think the 42RLE is a good little trans. It was on TJ's back to 2003 before our JK's. I find them simple but effective and easy to work on.
Thanks for your reply, now do u think after adding a few hundred pounds in accessories the factory torque converter will be enough? or for a couple hundred more $$ go to a hd converter? I don't know much at all about transmissions, I just don't want to finally get time off to take a trip from Illinois to California and the trans go out on the way bc I overloaded it? Or it only last 50k miles and need this done again? If the cheaper route is better (rebuilding the factory) then that is great! I just don't want to have to do this again and end up spending more later than if I just would have now. I received a quote from ATS for a stage 1 for around 5,700 before the 1,400 core refund. The factory rebuild im told from the shop is 2400, 2800 with HD converter
 
Thanks for your reply, now do u think after adding a few hundred pounds in accessories the factory torque converter will be enough? or for a couple hundred more $$ go to a hd converter? I don't know much at all about transmissions, I just don't want to finally get time off to take a trip from Illinois to California and the trans go out on the way bc I overloaded it? Or it only last 50k miles and need this done again? If the cheaper route is better (rebuilding the factory) then that is great! I just don't want to have to do this again and end up spending more later than if I just would have now. I received a quote from ATS for a stage 1 for around 5,700 before the 1,400 core refund. The factory rebuild im told from the shop is 2400, 2800 with HD converter
Grain of salt here, but I think of heavy duty converters as things needed for towing applications. My rationale is you said you're adding a couple hundred pounds, right? So basically it's like adding a family in the Jeep with you, yeah? And would you ever think you need to upgrade your torque converter because you've switched from driving alone every day to now driving with your family every day? Of course not.

Just out of curiosity, what internals are they replacing for the $2400? I honestly feel like the $2400 isn't egregious. You can get a full reman unit for about $2k and you're likely to spend more than $400 on install unless you're doing it yourself. Hell, ATF+4 for this is probably $100 alone.
 
My biggest hope is not having to replace the trans again lol I know so much factors into that but... I have added a poison spyder front bumper i plan to a rear from them and side rails.
Big fan of Poison Spyder. I've got their Brawler rock sliders on both of our Rubicons.
They are all pretty heavy stuff and eventually I'm hoping to add a rack on top with a roof tent, then travel the country is my wish. So I will be adding a decent amount of weight eventually and hope to travel long distance and trail ride. Atleast that is my plan currently so I'm hoping to build this right for what I want as I need to. I may like to tow a small trailer from time to time as well but do not have to. Knowing all that, would the factory everything still be enough or?
You've got the 2011. You don't really have enough power to break things unless you're really into abuse. Brand new, that was a 200HP engine. And after 100,000 miles, a few ponies have no doubt escaped. And it's in a vehicle with roughly the same aerodynamic characteristics as a barn. If you're planning to tow, I'd worry less about breakage and more about how you're going to make it up the hills on the interstate. The 3.8L is a solid, reliable engine, and it makes torque where you need it offroad. And it does reasonably well on the highway, other than the poor mileage. But add offroad gear and a trailer, and it's going to struggle. A lot.
I have no sense at all how strong the factory trans could be mine has been junk since I've had it in the jeep I have. Shift points were totally off when I bought it bc of tires, speedometer was way off then the torque converter stopped locking up so it has been everywhere for me in the last 3 months I have no good baseline how it should be
The big tires and poor gearing probably has a lot to do with your failure. I don't think yours is a Rubicon (correct me if I'm wrong) so at best it had 3.73 gears. Those are not a good choice for the 35" tires. It could have had 3.55, which is worse, obviously, and at least some Wranglers were made with 3.02 gears in the diffs. I cannot imagine why, but they were.
 
Big fan of Poison Spyder. I've got their Brawler rock sliders on both of our Rubicons.

You've got the 2011. You don't really have enough power to break things unless you're really into abuse. Brand new, that was a 200HP engine. And after 100,000 miles, a few ponies have no doubt escaped. And it's in a vehicle with roughly the same aerodynamic characteristics as a barn. If you're planning to tow, I'd worry less about breakage and more about how you're going to make it up the hills on the interstate. The 3.8L is a solid, reliable engine, and it makes torque where you need it offroad. And it does reasonably well on the highway, other than the poor mileage. But add offroad gear and a trailer, and it's going to struggle. A lot.

The big tires and poor gearing probably has a lot to do with your failure. I don't think yours is a Rubicon (correct me if I'm wrong) so at best it had 3.73 gears. Those are not a good choice for the 35" tires. It could have had 3.55, which is worse, obviously, and at least some Wranglers were made with 3.02 gears in the diffs. I cannot imagine why, but they were.
So far i have the poison spyder brawler mid front bumper and i really like the quality so id like to get the rest to match it as well..

Mine had 3.73 gears in it factory. No it is not a Rubicon, I will avoid using it to tow anything from now on it sounds like, and from what u guys are saying it sounds like I will probably be just fine with a rebuild. I do not plan to ruff house it I just want to go on probably some medium grade trails with it. I'm not new to off roading so I know throttle control has A LOT to do with breaking things as well. So from what u guys are saying it sounds like il just stick with a factory rebuild and I may just go ahead and do the HD converter just bc it is only a few hundred more and will hopefully make it a little stronger than stock. I think that is really all I'm hoping for. I already added an additional trans cooler so that should definitely help things as well. Thank you for your knowledge and input!
 
Grain of salt here, but I think of heavy duty converters as things needed for towing applications. My rationale is you said you're adding a couple hundred pounds, right? So basically it's like adding a family in the Jeep with you, yeah? And would you ever think you need to upgrade your torque converter because you've switched from driving alone every day to now driving with your family every day? Of course not.

Just out of curiosity, what internals are they replacing for the $2400? I honestly feel like the $2400 isn't egregious. You can get a full reman unit for about $2k and you're likely to spend more than $400 on install unless you're doing it yourself. Hell, ATF+4 for this is probably $100 alone.
Eventually I plan to have poison spyder front and rear bumpers and rock sliders. The front bumper I put on from them is quite heavy so I'm sure the rest will be as well. Then a roof rack with a roof top tent so prob atleast 400lbs in add ons and il have 4 people in my jeep as well. So mby another 5-600lbs there? I get what your saying i just saw people of course talking about how high to gear based some on weight u were hauling. But from what I'm gathering since I now have the gears already done and have added an additional cooler to the trans the stock rebuild should be strong enough. I know little about transmissions but I do still think I may go ahead and have the HD torque converter installed as well tho just bc its only 300 more, if it will make it just a little stronger than stock still.
 
So far i have the poison spyder brawler mid front bumper and i really like the quality so id like to get the rest to match it as well..

Mine had 3.73 gears in it factory. No it is not a Rubicon, I will avoid using it to tow anything from now on it sounds like, and from what u guys are saying it sounds like I will probably be just fine with a rebuild. I do not plan to ruff house it I just want to go on probably some medium grade trails with it. I'm not new to off roading so I know throttle control has A LOT to do with breaking things as well. So from what u guys are saying it sounds like il just stick with a factory rebuild and I may just go ahead and do the HD converter just bc it is only a few hundred more and will hopefully make it a little stronger than stock. I think that is really all I'm hoping for. I already added an additional trans cooler so that should definitely help things as well. Thank you for your knowledge and input!
Good plan. Heat is a much bigger killer of automatic transmissions anyway, especially if you're not talking about a high HP engine.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK shifters