2013 Jeep JK tripping CB1 breaker when starting (no power to the entire TIPM after)

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EricFreeman

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Nov 14, 2022
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Davenport, Florida
I'm losing my mind with this issue. My battery died a couple of weeks ago. It was 4 years old.

So I put in a brand new battery and my Jeep started one time but the next time I tried to start it I heard a loud click from the TIPM/fuse box and immediately lost power to the dash, lights, and everything else.

Over the course of a week, I checked everything you could think of, including fuses and relays, which all tested good. I even changed the ignition switch and still the same thing. I was even thinking it could be the skim module, but I'm not getting an indicator light, and not sure it shuts power offer to everything including the lights.

Eventually, I tested the voltage to the TIPM from the battery, which was only 2.4v. I pulled the negative cable off the battery for about 30 minutes and then reconnected it and had 12v to the TIPM. I had lights and power again, but when I put the key and turned the key it did the same thing. I believe it's tripping the CB1 circuit breaker and then resets after pulling the negative cable for 30 minutes are so.

I was about to have it towed to the stealership and was writing a detailed report of the symptoms and I noticed that AutoZone gave me the wrong battery. The one they gave me has a much higher amp rating than the correct one does.

Keep in mind that everything was working fine before I put the new battery in. So I took it back and got the correct battery, installed it, and had power once again until I turned the key, and the same thing—the CB1 breaker trips.

My thought is that the CB1 went bad from using the wrong battery and then tripping it several times while trying to troubleshoot the issue.

Has anyone seen this? I ordered a new CB1 breaker and should have it in a few days. If that doesn't work I may just hot-wire and bypass it.
 
EricFreeman said:
Hello Blackjku,

Thank you for the quick reply back.

I agree there could be a hot going to the ground. Maybe on the starter? The thing is that once the CB1 resets all the lights work, headlights and dash and radio and pretty much everything. As soon as the key is turned it trips.
Click to expand...

Welcome

If your turning the key to start when it does it then you should start at the starter and trace the small wire that's on the starter solenoid back to the beginning until you find a worn spot.
 
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BLACKJKU said:
A higher amp battery will not cause those issues.

Sounds like you could have a hot wire going to ground to trip the CB1.

You need to find out what all is on the CB1 circuit.
Click to expand...
Hello Blackjku,

Thank you for the quick reply back.

I agree there could be a hot going to the ground. Maybe on the starter? The thing is that once the CB1 resets all the lights work, headlights and dash and radio and pretty much everything. As soon as the key is turned it trips.

I was thinking to pull the starter fuse and try to turn it over. Thoughts?
 
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EricFreeman said:
Hello Blackjku,

Thank you for the quick reply back.

I agree there could be a hot going to the ground. Maybe on the starter? The thing is that once the CB1 resets all the lights work, headlights and dash and radio and pretty much everything. As soon as the key is turned it trips.

I was thinking to pull the starter fuse and try to turn it over. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Yes check the starter solenoid wire like I said in my Post above.
 
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BLACKJKU said:
Welcome

If your turning the key to start when it does it then you should start at the starter and trace the small wire that's on the starter solenoid back to the beginning until you find a worn spot.
Click to expand...
I will do that. Strange that it only did this after I changed the battery though. Before that everything worked perfectly.
 
EricFreeman said:
I will do that. Strange that it only did this after I changed the battery though. Before that everything worked perfectly.
Click to expand...
Correlation is not causation.

As mentioned, the higher amp rating of your battery is absolutely not the problem.

The two things most commonly done on vehicles with things like winches, extra lights, extra radios, a big thumping stereo and extra amplifiers, etc. are a battery and alternator swap, both for the purpose of providing more current. Got a totally stock vehicle, but leave the lights or stereo on when the engine isn't running? The solution is a battery with more amperage.

More available amperage will never harm anything. Because unless your device is faulty, it will pull only the amount it actually needs. And if it IS faulty, that's what fuses (or breakers...) are for.
 
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Hello,

Embarrassing, it ended up being a bad battery connection. The current draw was enough to trip the breaker in the fuse box. The connections looked good from the outside and there was no visible corrosion so I did bother cleaning them when I changed the battery. I took a fine metal file to all the flat parts and made sure everything was tight including the connection at the starter. Fired right up, :rolleyes: Either way, thanks for the advice you guys gave me as it helped me look at the cables.
 
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We were right???

No way! I was just pulling advice out of my rectum, really. ;)
 
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