Should 150k miles deter me from buying this 2011 JK?

Me, personally, I’d prefer a 3.6 pentastar. Anything 2012 and up. I’ve watched videos from mechanics that state the 3.8 is reliable, though. However, I also have heard from owners with 35 inch tires, it’s a dog. Regearing would surely help, but that’s another 1,600 to 1,900 dollars on top of the cost.
 
I picked up a 2008 last year with 136500, so far I am very happy with it. If you can have it looked over by a mechanic that would be helpful. Other then that if it looks clean, drives and runs well, and of course the price is right it may be worth buying. There are no guarantees with any used vehicle you just do your best in looking it over and buying it at a fair price. Good luck.
 
The price is good. It drives really nice. The interior is very clean. The exterior is very good condition. I’m concerned that the undercarriage, although I don’t think there is any rot, everything underneath is rust. Is that a bad sign?
 
You may want to reach into the frame with you fingers to get a better idea of the rust and if there is any crud in there. If its surface rust, it can be cleaned off and the frame repainted. If your referring to the underside of the Jeep's body, that can be repaired within reason meaning it would be dependent as to how much work you want to put into it.
 
They are all a dog unless you put a Pedal Commander on it, makes the throttle pedal more responsive. Makes it feel like you added 50 more HP on the high setting.
 
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Me, personally, I’d prefer a 3.6 pentastar. Anything 2012 and up. I’ve watched videos from mechanics that state the 3.8 is reliable, though. However, I also have heard from owners with 35 inch tires, it’s a dog. Regearing would surely help, but that’s another 1,600 to 1,900 dollars on top of the cost.

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The price is good. It drives really nice. The interior is very clean. The exterior is very good condition. I’m concerned that the undercarriage, although I don’t think there is any rot, everything underneath is rust. Is that a bad sign?
NY / NE rust with Jeeps is always a bad sign. Or an indication that it could be worse than you think. I used to believe only YJ’s and TJ’s had their weak spots in terms of rust but early JK’s, if neglected, suffer from it as well.

Don’t get into a Jeep where you have to chase down rust repair. It’s not cheap and often returns if it’s not maintained regularly or garaged thereafter.
 
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The price is good. It drives really nice. The interior is very clean. The exterior is very good condition. I’m concerned that the undercarriage, although I don’t think there is any rot, everything underneath is rust. Is that a bad sign?
Surface rust is normal. make sure you know the difference. 3.6 is by far a better choice but a price factor too...
 
we got a 2008 with a 3.8 and about 150k on it for $10,500 and then put another $2K to $3K in it immediately on a new soft top (none came with it) and new interior upholstery and heated seats, and a new headunit. The stock stereo/bluetooth is terrible. Also upgraded the stock headlights, which are terrible. So far we are very happy, and even wiht the mileage, the engine runs great. I plan once it is warmer again to clean and paint the underside and replace the gas tank skid plate which has some rust.

The pedal commander has been recommended to me in the past, and I am thinking about it as the next thing - there is definitely a lag between pushing on the pedal and the time the engine decides you want to accelerate. It's an electronic throttle issue, not really a lack of engine power, I think. I did take apart and clean the throttle body and while it was a little dirty, I don't think it made a lot of difference - though I did find out that the gasket had been installed badly and so ordered a new one.

I think that the mileage is not as much of an issue as the rust. Be sure that you won't be needing a new frame or even frame repairs - unless you are getting it for a song and then you can decide that you are just going to buy a new frame. A friend in Maine just did that and it's about $4K to get a frame and have everything moved over, he said....so he decided to do it himself.
 
Everyone says go for 2012 and above. Problem with that is that everyone goes for the 2012 and above so the $$$$ follow. I think it depends on what your going to use it for. A daily driver that your wife and kids will be using everyday, maybe not such a good idea. I was all about getting a 100,000 - 125,000, 4.0 as a 3rd car but the prices were surprisingly steep as well as limited inventory. So I regrouped and went for a somewhat lower mileage 2010 46,000 JK that I could daily driver as my #1 car and yes I spent a bit more but hopefully it goes for 5-6 years when I get bored of it and move onto something else.
 
The 3.8 is the budget JK. I'm driving a 2009 Rubicon right now and only payed $12k for it. It had around 160k on the engine. I've been happy with it.

The 3.8 is basically the chrystler 3800 engine they used for years. It is reliable, just not as powerful as the 3.6. If you do get it, change out the plugs and wires right away. I waited a year and was amazed at how much more power I got.
 
Everyone says go for 2012 and above. Problem with that is that everyone goes for the 2012 and above so the $$$$ follow. I think it depends on what your going to use it for. A daily driver that your wife and kids will be using everyday, maybe not such a good idea. I was all about getting a 100,000 - 125,000, 4.0 as a 3rd car but the prices were surprisingly steep as well as limited inventory. So I regrouped and went for a somewhat lower mileage 2010 46,000 JK that I could daily driver as my #1 car and yes I spent a bit more but hopefully it goes for 5-6 years when I get bored of it and move onto something else.
You did the right thing going w a JK, because finding a clean TJ in good condition is seemingly impossible in NJ. Least not for much less than an older JK.
 
The 3.8 is the budget JK. I'm driving a 2009 Rubicon right now and only payed $12k for it. It had around 160k on the engine. I've been happy with it.

The 3.8 is basically the chrystler 3800 engine they used for years. It is reliable, just not as powerful as the 3.6. If you do get it, change out the plugs and wires right away. I waited a year and was amazed at how much more power I got.
It looks like I will be changing plugs and wires :giggle:
 
Last month I bought a 2009 with 193,000 miles. It’s a second car for me. I’ll have to hang some new parts on it occasionally over the next couple years...but with my budget it’s the only way im getting into a wrangler, the used market is insane!
Not to offend anybody, but is there something the magical pedal commander does, that my right foot can’t do in a stock jeep? If a commander increases the percentage of ‘pedal input’ to the computer, which opens the throttle body more...to a dummy like me, I would think I could just push the pedal harder in a stock jeep....for the same effect. A throttle body can’t open over 100%.
Does it advance ign timing, or adjust shift points?
my buddy got one on his Silverado, and was happy with it, I didn’t want to bum him out with my questions.
So I rather offend strangers on the internet😬
 
Last month I bought a 2009 with 193,000 miles. It’s a second car for me. I’ll have to hang some new parts on it occasionally over the next couple years...but with my budget it’s the only way im getting into a wrangler, the used market is insane!
Not to offend anybody, but is there something the magical pedal commander does, that my right foot can’t do in a stock jeep? If a commander increases the percentage of ‘pedal input’ to the computer, which opens the throttle body more...to a dummy like me, I would think I could just push the pedal harder in a stock jeep....for the same effect. A throttle body can’t open over 100%.
Does it advance ign timing, or adjust shift points?
my buddy got one on his Silverado, and was happy with it, I didn’t want to bum him out with my questions.
So I rather offend strangers on the internet😬
It doesn't open the Throttle Body more , just faster so it feels more responsive like the old cable driven pedals.
 
The 3.8 is the budget JK. I'm driving a 2009 Rubicon right now and only payed $12k for it. It had around 160k on the engine. I've been happy with it.

The 3.8 is basically the chrystler 3800 engine they used for years. It is reliable, just not as powerful as the 3.6. If you do get it, change out the plugs and wires right away. I waited a year and was amazed at how much more power I got.
I second the plugs and wires. I bought mine last summer in July '20 w/ 118K miles. I just finished replacing my plugs a few minutes ago (122K miles) and the engine idles about 50% smoother and the acceleration is smoother and improved. Looking at the plugs, the PO did not replace them at around 100k miles like he/she should have. Glad I did.... now, I need to get wires and a coil. Should be simple to swap. If I had a 3.6... I would've had to take the damn intake off I believe. Almost glad I have the 3.8L, but have driven a 3.6 Pent and I do love that too.

And I can definitely attest to BLACKJKU's recommendation of a Pedal Commander.... definitely helps you from the 0-3000 rpm range and maintaining speed on the slight grades on a long trip.

Good luck with your hunt, you'll love it.
 
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I second the plugs and wires. I bought mine last summer in July '20 w/ 118K miles. I just finished replacing my plugs a few minutes ago (122K miles) and the engine idles about 50% smoother and the acceleration is smoother and improved. Looking at the plugs, the PO did not replace them at around 100k miles like he/she should have. Glad I did.... now, I need to get wires and a coil. Should be simple to swap. If I had a 3.6... I would've had to take the damn intake off I believe. Almost glad I have the 3.8L, but have driven a 3.6 Pent and I do love that too.

And I can definitely attest to BLACKJKU's recommendation of a Pedal Commander.... definitely helps you from the 0-3000 rpm range and maintaining speed on the slight grades on a long trip.

Good luck with your hunt, you'll love it.
I've changed both plugs on both the 3.8 and 3.6 and the 3.8 is tons easier. With the 3.8, plug and wire change is an hour or two, with the 3.6 it is a major operation, the whole top of the engine need to come off.

The only thing easier to do on the 3.6 is the oil filter, which is tied directly into the oil cooler, which you may need to replace by removing the top of the engine...

That being said, if I got the opportunity to move to a 3.6 I would. Right now I'm perfectly fine with my 2009 and it can do anything I need it to.
 
It looks like I will be changing plugs and wires :giggle:
I have them on the bench - it will be bitter cold this weekend. Maybe I will clean the garage so I can bring the Jeep inside and spend the day tinkering in comfort. I have been avoiding this since getting the plug wires off is a @#$% nightmare - and getting to the passenger side rear plug is really a nightmare. I think that I might have to go the taking the front wheel off route.
 
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