I've hot a 2010 Jeep Jk with 3.8 engine. The spark Plugs have around 100,000 miles on them. Running ok, but I'd like to change them and I'm afraid that with that mileage there might be a problem that they might be hard to remove. Any tricks that may be used ? I don't want to strip the aluminum head threads.
Seized spark plugs
- Thread starter Cammer8
- Start date
Make sure the engine is cold, and I put a light coat of anti-seize on the new ones. Replace your plug wires also and would recommend using OEM parts.
Make sure your engine is totally cold. Pull your plug wires. Spray in a ton of WD40. Let it soak. Maybe do that again. Other than that, there's not much in the way of tricks for removing your old plugs.
Buy plugs from a reputable manufacturer. I mostly use Bosch and NGK. Do NOT put anti-seize on your new plugs until you check the manufacturers recommendations. Modern plugs have rolled threads, not cut, and are plated, eliminating the need for anti-seize.
From the NGK web site:
Similarly, Bosch recommends against using anti-seize on their plugs. So does pretty much every major spark plug manufacturer.
I would, however, use plenty of dielectric grease on your new plug wires, especially if the Jeep sees any real off highway use. It improves the connection and prevents water entry.
Buy plugs from a reputable manufacturer. I mostly use Bosch and NGK. Do NOT put anti-seize on your new plugs until you check the manufacturers recommendations. Modern plugs have rolled threads, not cut, and are plated, eliminating the need for anti-seize.
From the NGK web site:
Similarly, Bosch recommends against using anti-seize on their plugs. So does pretty much every major spark plug manufacturer.
I would, however, use plenty of dielectric grease on your new plug wires, especially if the Jeep sees any real off highway use. It improves the connection and prevents water entry.
I tried engine cold with several applications of Blaster and couldn't budge plugs. Contrary to most -I warmed up the engine and voila, it broke loose. I plan on easing out with more Blaser, using counter and clockwise to finish the job!!
Acxman
Member
Heat the block is what you want. No different then installing bearings. You heat up the surrounding area so that the steel/iron/aluminum Expands. I work on many small engines. When I remove a bearing or threaded part I always heat up the block around the part. Also when reinstalling a bearing, I heat up the block and put the bearing in the freezer for a few minutes. Sometimes the bearings fall right in without having to use the press.
As long as the threads aren't harmed (Carbon etc.) and I take my time, I should be OK!!
macleanflood
Member
Reason manufacturers say no to antiseize is it throws off torque values and they don't want the liability. That and idiots can get it all over the electrode.
I use it...but I also typically use copper high heat.
Dialectic grease is good inside the boots.
Pull the plugs and post pictures. Always good to read the plugs...tells you how well the engine is running...or YouTube it. Vice Grip Garage often covers how to read plugs.
-Mac
I use it...but I also typically use copper high heat.
Dialectic grease is good inside the boots.
Pull the plugs and post pictures. Always good to read the plugs...tells you how well the engine is running...or YouTube it. Vice Grip Garage often covers how to read plugs.
-Mac
Thanks to all with their ideas. Still think a warm engine is best for plugs that don't want to come loose as long as you don't get over zealous when wrenching them out!!
BigAL07
JK Enthusiast
The only thing that worries me is messing up the threads on the way out! Plugs have been in quite a while.Carbon deposits etc..could cause a problem on the (softer heads) when heated up!!
That's why i put just a light dab of Anti-seeze on mine, and i've never torqued a spark plug. I just run then in until they stop and then just snug them up a bit.
Acxman
Member
Also, do not install plugs when the engine is hot. Works the opposite of removing. Tightening plugs ( or any threaded part ) when a block is hot will allow it to be tightened further then when it’s cold. That can be too tight.
Lesson, change plugs before 100,000 miles. I do mine every 60 to 70,000 miles.
BigAL07
JK Enthusiast
BigAL07
JK Enthusiast