My first Wrangler: What sort of things do I need to be aware of?

not_batman

not_batman

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Bought a 2-door 2008 Wrangler X (JK). 3rd owner, 140k miles. Manual transmission.

What kinds of things do I need to be aware of? Problems with this year/model, Maintenance things I’ll need to do soon, etc?

Thanks,
Joe
 
not_batman said:
Bought a 2-door 2008 Wrangler X (JK). 3rd owner, 140k miles. Manual transmission.

What kinds of things do I need to be aware of? Problems with this year/model, Maintenance things I’ll need to do soon, etc?

Thanks,
Joe
Click to expand...

Looking at your profile, did the PO do an engine swap? The 08 (I have one) came with a 3.8L V6.

People say that engine sucks, maybe, but it’s been nothing but decent to my son and it has 2” lift 1”BL and 35” BFG MTRs. Other than gearing needs upgrade, it runs solid


Pay attention to the NSG370 (6 speed transmission ) the 08 is better than first years of that Trans 05-06.

I’d change the fluids make sure they are all 100% and then drive it. Figure our what it’s doing. Unless you’re looking for a build, then just use it and figure out what you want .
 
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Yeah, it’s the 3.8, I have it wrong on the profile, ha. Seems to be running well, I’ve already put 1500 miles on it. I got it from a dealership, they had power washed the engine, and there’s a thin film of muck starting to accumulate on everything under the hood so I’m starting to worry about burning oil - is that common with this model?
 
not_batman said:
Yeah, it’s the 3.8, I have it wrong on the profile, ha. Seems to be running well, I’ve already put 1500 miles on it. I got it from a dealership, they had power washed the engine, and there’s a thin film of muck starting to accumulate on everything under the hood so I’m starting to worry about burning oil - is that common with this model?
Click to expand...
Yes, they burn oil, and even with no leaks. Funny, I've seen some say "Use Synthetic, it'll stop it" and some say "use conventional, it'll stop that" Ha.

Lots of folks hate the 3.8, but I've got it and it is what it is. Change oil regularly, and check in between. My son didn't (he's 17 now...idiot like I was then, and skipped checking) and it was way low and I was pissed.
 
if you're looking to change fluids, the NSG370 likes Redline MTL for transmission gear oil. I run it in both of my 6 speeds, based on some really, really good experience on the TJ forums. Trans shifts better with it, and the properties that Redline MTL brings helps with the Synchros. I just had a 6 speed rebuilt, it was originally designed and built by Mercedes, and that German sucker is a good trans, but it's COSTLY to rebuild, so treat it well and avoid it.
 
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Also, one thing I've seen, if you are cleaning the engine bay.....be careful with the fan. The electric fan assembly I've replace twice on my 2008 JK since buying it in 2018. The assembly isn't water proof (seriously, totally pisses me off). You spray water in there too much, and that dam fan will go out and you'll overheat. It's one of the easier replacements, takes maybe :30 minutes, maybe, but still annoying.
 
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not_batman said:
Awesome, thanks for the info! Is it relatively simple to change out the transmission fluid?
Click to expand...
Yes.
1. Make sure you can get the fill plug open (don't want to be stuck without gear oil)
2. Bottom of NSG drain plug (I bought an allen bit, then cut a chunk off the end, and put a ratcheting wrench on it.
3. The exhaust crosses over right under it, major PITA, can't put an allen socket in there, no room.
4. Put foil over the exhaust there, and a pan underneath, drain fluid and let it run down over the foil.
5. Put the drain plug back in and tighten (you have to "feel" to spec, you can get a torque wrench in there without pulling the exhaust, I'm not doing that.
6. Fill with MTL....only until it comes out of the fill hole, do not over fill. Make sure Jeep is on level ground.

That's it.
 
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With the age and miles i'd take time to inspect all the battery cables and grounds to make sure they are clean and tight. Biggest issue with electrical problems, I even went as far as running a ground wire from the neg battery terminal to the alternator case.

The rear main seals start to leak a little when they get some miles on them so check oil regularly.
 
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BLACKJKU said:
With the age and miles i'd take time to inspect all the battery cables and grounds to make sure they are clean and tight. Biggest issue with electrical problems, I even went as far as running a ground wire from the neg battery terminal to the alternator case.

The rear main seals start to leak a little when they get some miles on them so check oil regularly.
Click to expand...
Wait....the RMS didn't leak from the factory? I thought that was a feature.....when it stopped I need to put oil in?
 
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cpwolf said:
Wait....the RMS didn't leak from the factory? I thought that was a feature.....when it stopped I need to put oil in?
Click to expand...

Yes like mine I drove 35 miles home from the dealer and was checking the fluids and the engine oil was 2 quarts low and the trans was 1 qt low. I think it was a option to leak new for the people that live on gravel roads.
 
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Rust, rust, and more rust. If they salt the roads where you are at, either do not drive it in the winter (get a cheap beater instead), or coat the hell out of the underside with something like Fluid Film, very liberally, multiple times a year.
 
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Chris said:
Rust, rust, and more rust. If they salt the roads where you are at, either do not drive it in the winter (get a cheap beater instead), or coat the hell out of the underside with something like Fluid Film, very liberally, multiple times a year.
Click to expand...

how much does that cost?
 
The 3.8 is bullet proof, but mine does burn a lot of oil since new in 2010. I switched to synthetic because of our very cold winter start ups. I come from a long line of Engineers, but what the F with the trans 17mm drain plug over the exhaust. I too like cpwolf cut a 17mm hex to get at that plug. They salt to Purgatory here, but I just have minor surface rust under the carriage. (Chemistry) Never park in a warm environment during the winter with salt, come spring try to hose salt off under the carriage.
P1010074.JPG
 
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Chris said:
Rust, rust, and more rust. If they salt the roads where you are at, either do not drive it in the winter (get a cheap beater instead), or coat the hell out of the underside with something like Fluid Film, very liberally, multiple times a year.
Click to expand...
Man I Love Texas, lived here my whole life, I have zero experience owning a car in salt road locations, ha.
 
TROY66/68 said:
The 3.8 is bullet proof, but mine does burn a lot of oil since new in 2010. I switched to synthetic because of our very cold winter start ups. I come from a long line of Engineers, but what the F with the trans 17mm drain plug over the exhaust. I too like cpwolf cut a 17mm hex to get at that plug. They salt to Purgatory here, but I just have minor surface rust under the carriage. (Chemistry) Never park in a warm environment during the winter with salt, come spring try to hose salt off under the carriage. View attachment 116685
Click to expand...
Thanks! I live in Colorado and we frequently get warm weather in the winter, so I think I will just have to get protective coatings and be sure to be proactive about getting the under-carriage at the carwash
 
cpwolf said:
Yes.
1. Make sure you can get the fill plug open (don't want to be stuck without gear oil)
2. Bottom of NSG drain plug (I bought an allen bit, then cut a chunk off the end, and put a ratcheting wrench on it.
3. The exhaust crosses over right under it, major PITA, can't put an allen socket in there, no room.
4. Put foil over the exhaust there, and a pan underneath, drain fluid and let it run down over the foil.
5. Put the drain plug back in and tighten (you have to "feel" to spec, you can get a torque wrench in there without pulling the exhaust, I'm not doing that.
6. Fill with MTL....only until it comes out of the fill hole, do not over fill. Make sure Jeep is on level ground.

That's it.
Click to expand...
Is there a spec. for how much transmission fluids it holds so I can drain it and just add the specified amount?
 
Maybe look on the FSM link, but I have never measured. Just fill until it hits the bottom of the hole and done
 
My 08 2dr has been good to me so far. Had a brake line burst but the Jeep has 118k on it. The 3.8 is solid , a bit of a dog, but solid. 1st thing I did was took it to my guy to get the tranny fluid changed and got an alignment . It’s my 1st Jeep . Won’t be my last. Already promised this one to my son. Enjoy.
 
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