Hi I have 2013 jku with Teraflex lift my ride is not comfy car is wobly around little bumps should I change shocks to fox 2.0 or is there something else I might need to change. Running 35.
Jku with 2.5 Tera flex lift
- Thread starter Jku-crawler
- Start date
What tire pressure are you running? Have you had a front end alignment? Do you have adjustable control arms?
I have that same lift kit, mine is with the 9550-shocks and I love the kit, it rides amazing. The only difference I have vs standard kit is that my front swaybar links are a few inches longer from an earlier leveling kit. With this kit you don't need adjustable anything and can use the stock control arms and track bar.
If you got the kit without shocks and are using stock shocks, then yes, replace them. Shocks have a 'length' to them, incorrectly sized shocks can wreck the ride.
Bad shocks will make the ride rough or bouncy, not wobbly.. provided I'm understanding your use of the word.
I have 33 inch tires that I run around 28 PSI. If you are running your 35s at 34 psi that will def make for a rougher ride.
You are right in the time frame for ball joints to be replaced, so I would have them checked out.
And primarily, if you did not have an alignment done after the lift, this isn't an optional thing. You 100% have to have a vehicle aligned after a lift. If you bought the jeep with the lift, it's the first thing I would have done at this point. Actually, it would be my first stop regardless. They should also find any problems with the vehicle that are causing your issue. Probably anyway.
Ask around where the best place to have an alignment done is in your area. Not all shops are good at it.
If you got the kit without shocks and are using stock shocks, then yes, replace them. Shocks have a 'length' to them, incorrectly sized shocks can wreck the ride.
Bad shocks will make the ride rough or bouncy, not wobbly.. provided I'm understanding your use of the word.
I have 33 inch tires that I run around 28 PSI. If you are running your 35s at 34 psi that will def make for a rougher ride.
You are right in the time frame for ball joints to be replaced, so I would have them checked out.
And primarily, if you did not have an alignment done after the lift, this isn't an optional thing. You 100% have to have a vehicle aligned after a lift. If you bought the jeep with the lift, it's the first thing I would have done at this point. Actually, it would be my first stop regardless. They should also find any problems with the vehicle that are causing your issue. Probably anyway.
Ask around where the best place to have an alignment done is in your area. Not all shops are good at it.
I also have this lift and my ride was pretty bad when I bought her. In order, I did this:
- Reduced air pressure in my 35s down to 30 (disabled TPMS w/JScan)
- New shocks w/ correct length
- New tires when they needed replacing, alignment and a new drag link
Teraflex makes some great gear . Been eyeing up the 2 1/2 lift myself.
hey do make sport control arms for 2 1/2 - 3" lifts . Arms are non adjustable but a bit longer than stock .
Keeps wheels centred in wheel well.
Pinion Angle front & back are corrected for lift
Correct Caster Angle is maintained .
Maintaining correct geometry on the Wrangler suspension is most important when lifting. One can run into a host of issues or premature wear of other components if correct geometry is not maintained .
Some gents have done 2 1/2 lifts without changing out control arms or track bar . But I feel it's really not the best approach. If you were to measure from frame to outside of front tires you will probably see front axle is not centred under the Jeep if stock track bar wasn't changed . Def no offence to any posters here as many are very experienced, knowledgable great guys.
I've done a ton of research into lifts and read many many issues on multiple forums cause geometry was off in one way or another resulting in a crap ride .
You could be experiencing wear from elongated holes in track bar mounts . Jeep used undersized threaded boots for the trackbar and those threads act like a grinder on the trackbar bushings .When I replaced my TB used 9/16 shouldered grade 8. Fits the holes much better , no slop.
Could also be worn out ball joints, worn ends in the tie rod or drag link . Possibly as others mentioned simply an alignment issue .
Or as I mentioned caster is off cause of geometry or axle not centred. . Every jeep is different . What one guy may do may not necessarily have the same result in another jeep cause there will be something that is a bit different .
With myself was getting a bit of death wobble . Watched a very informative video on YT. There was a def clunk in my drag link.
Was planing on replacing anyways . So did drag link first to rule it out . It fixed the wobble and tighten things up perfectly .
From there replaced the tie rod and went with adjustable track bar.
I'm using Rubicon suspension . For the 1" ish lift it gave me over stock Sahara suspension . My axle was off centre about 1/4". Centering it did make a difference .
Lifts if done properly can be great . It's something I myself would never cut any corners on . Do it properly the first time and you won't have any issues. Sounds like previous owner didn't do it properly .
hey do make sport control arms for 2 1/2 - 3" lifts . Arms are non adjustable but a bit longer than stock .
Keeps wheels centred in wheel well.
Pinion Angle front & back are corrected for lift
Correct Caster Angle is maintained .
Maintaining correct geometry on the Wrangler suspension is most important when lifting. One can run into a host of issues or premature wear of other components if correct geometry is not maintained .
Some gents have done 2 1/2 lifts without changing out control arms or track bar . But I feel it's really not the best approach. If you were to measure from frame to outside of front tires you will probably see front axle is not centred under the Jeep if stock track bar wasn't changed . Def no offence to any posters here as many are very experienced, knowledgable great guys.
I've done a ton of research into lifts and read many many issues on multiple forums cause geometry was off in one way or another resulting in a crap ride .
You could be experiencing wear from elongated holes in track bar mounts . Jeep used undersized threaded boots for the trackbar and those threads act like a grinder on the trackbar bushings .When I replaced my TB used 9/16 shouldered grade 8. Fits the holes much better , no slop.
Could also be worn out ball joints, worn ends in the tie rod or drag link . Possibly as others mentioned simply an alignment issue .
Or as I mentioned caster is off cause of geometry or axle not centred. . Every jeep is different . What one guy may do may not necessarily have the same result in another jeep cause there will be something that is a bit different .
With myself was getting a bit of death wobble . Watched a very informative video on YT. There was a def clunk in my drag link.
Was planing on replacing anyways . So did drag link first to rule it out . It fixed the wobble and tighten things up perfectly .
From there replaced the tie rod and went with adjustable track bar.
I'm using Rubicon suspension . For the 1" ish lift it gave me over stock Sahara suspension . My axle was off centre about 1/4". Centering it did make a difference .
Lifts if done properly can be great . It's something I myself would never cut any corners on . Do it properly the first time and you won't have any issues. Sounds like previous owner didn't do it properly .