Driver side front brake sticking

kk2010jk

kk2010jk

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Joined
Dec 2, 2020
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86
Location
Milford NJ
Seems to happen when car sits for a few days. So I used 'C' clamp to move piston in and it took some effort, more than I was expecting. Moved it out with brake peddle. Caliper centering pins work freely. I cleaned up the pad slides. Drove it around a couple days and then feel rim for heat. Sometimes a bit warm. Passenger side always cool. So I'm leaning towards replacing with basic remanufactured calipers (both sides), new pads and new hoses and a brake flush. Could the Hill Assist possibly be misbehaving? My drive way is a hill up to leave and I typically let the Hill assist release then go just to make sure. Does Hill assist need any special Bleeding procedures?
 
Sounds more like a caliper is needing replaced. What I do to check one is jack that side up and turn the wheel if it's hard to roll the tire crack open the bleeder for that caliper. If fluid comes out and the tire will roll easier then then is a problem past the caliper, if it still doesn't move try removing the bleeder in case it's plugged up. If still the tire doesn't roll then replace the caliper it's hanging up.
 
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Also I have seen the rubber hoses deteriorate and not allow the fluid return, thus keeping pressure on the caliper.
I don't know anything about the hill assist.
Your plan to change hoses, calipers, pads and fluid is a sound decision.
Frank
 
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BLACKJKU said:
Sounds more like a caliper is needing replaced. What I do to check one is jack that side up and turn the wheel if it's hard to roll the tire crack open the bleeder for that caliper. If fluid comes out and the tire will roll easier then then is a problem past the caliper, if it still doesn't move try removing the bleeder in case it's plugged up. If still the tire doesn't roll then replace the caliper it's hanging up.
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I tried that once I put it back together and I didn't really notice much improvement cracking the bleeder in wheel turn. Appreciate the advice
 
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BLACKJKU said:
Did any fluid come out and the wheel would spin easier?
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Fluid came out but I could not really turn rotor with any more ease. Wheel/tire were off. I was using a piece of wood between the lugs to get leverage to rotate the rotor. That was the only way to turn rotor.
 
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kk2010jk said:
Fluid came out but I could not really turn rotor with any more ease. Wheel/tire were off. I was using a piece of wood between the lugs to get leverage to rotate the rotor. That was the only way to turn rotor.
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Time for a new caliper with the bleeder out you released all the pressure that could have been in there and it was still stuck.
 
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That was my thinking. I am typically of the mind set that if I have to do something like this, what other components can I replace? I certainly don't like to spend money but when you prep to a certain level then sometimes, in my mind, it makes sense to replace some related components while I'm there (Hoses, pads, fluid)
Good to have some extra thoughts
 
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You'll need brake pads for sure because they will be prematurely worn from the caliper from hanging up. It might be a good idea to go ahead and replace the other caliper and maybe the rubber brake lines on each side in the front if they look old.
 
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franka548 said:
Also I have seen the rubber hoses deteriorate and not allow the fluid return, thus keeping pressure on the caliper.
I don't know anything about the hill assist.
Your plan to change hoses, calipers, pads and fluid is a sound decision.
Frank
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Thanks for the post Frank! I just replaced a sticking caliper and after bleeding and reassembly it was still burning. One more trip to the parts store, and I changed out the brake hose….my JK is running great now! Thanks again
 
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RESURRECTING this thread. Same thing happened to me- sticky caliper. Awful smell and the Jeep dragging ass. Even looked like my temps where going up just passed the midway point at highway speed. So replacing the caliper tomorrow. Question is, should I replace BOTH FRONT brake hoses too? Its a 2013 with 76k miles. They're cheap enough, and to be sure it's probably a good move.
 
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When one of multiple identical parts goes bad, I tend to think it's worth replacing all of them. They all have the same build and planned lifespan. But that's if it's worn out. If a headlight burns out, I replace both. If one gets broken by a rock, I do not. Your caliper is not worn out. It was flawed or something happened to it. But as you say, they're fairly inexpensive. There's certainly no harm in replacing both.
 
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Dirty Dog said:
When one of multiple identical parts goes bad, I tend to think it's worth replacing all of them. They all have the same build and planned lifespan. But that's if it's worn out. If a headlight burns out, I replace both. If one gets broken by a rock, I do not. Your caliper is not worn out. It was flawed or something happened to it. But as you say, they're fairly inexpensive. There's certainly no harm in replacing both.
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Ya, I concur.
 
Dirty Dog said:
When one of multiple identical parts goes bad, I tend to think it's worth replacing all of them. They all have the same build and planned lifespan. But that's if it's worn out. If a headlight burns out, I replace both. If one gets broken by a rock, I do not. Your caliper is not worn out. It was flawed or something happened to it. But as you say, they're fairly inexpensive. There's certainly no harm in replacing both.
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He’s talking replacing the brake hoses, not both calipers. I’d do both hoses as preventative while all the tools are out. Just a few minutes more work!
 
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Snowbird Tom said:
He’s talking replacing the brake hoses, not both calipers. I’d do both hoses as preventative while all the tools are out. Just a few minutes more work!
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My mistake, I read the post too quickly and thought they were talking about replacing the calipers. Hoses, I'd generally replace all of them at the same time.
 
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