Clunking in front end when turning and shifting from fwd to reverse

Ryandou

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JK is clunking on the front end intermittently when turning sharp at slow speeds and when going from fwd to reverse and vice versa. I have a locker on the front and it clicks when turning but this feels like something is shifting on the front end. I have pretty much replaced all front end suspension parts and torqued everything to spec and it still does it.

I’ve seen many threads on clunking noises and have checked control arms, drag links, tie rods, and track bar and still have the issue.

I finally put a GoPro under there and recreated it and don’t see any movement on anything but the engine. Now I suspect it is a driveline or transmission issue???

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated
 

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Dirty Dog

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Drive shaft u-joints, axle shaft u-joints, differential...

Also, just FYI, a lot of us will not see the video you uploaded, because it requires us to download it and run it locally. That's a good way to find yourself dealing with malware. If you want people to see it, your best bet is to upload it to YouTube or some such and link it.
 
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Ryandou

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Thanks for the responses. Axle shaft u-joints have been replaced. I’ll check the drive shaft u-joint…am I just looking for play?

Good call on the video Dirty Dog, I’ll have to figure that out at some point.
 
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Ryandou

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The front drive shaft has play in it in all directions where it extends/retracts (not sure on the terminology there).

Also put that video up on YouTube, there’s a longer version but this shows what happens when it clunks. You can see the oil pan shudder when the clunk happens???


Thanks again
 
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Ryandou

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After doing a little research and looking at the set up is there a safe way to replace engine mounts myself? I’ve done it on a CJ7 but there was a lot more room and I could access them from the top.

Called a couple shops in town but couldn’t get a straight answer on cost either???
 

shadow

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Just had my motor mounts and trans mount done at dealership for around $1800, maybe can be done cheaper at local shop? Not sure.
 

BLACKJKU

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Just had my motor mounts and trans mount done at dealership for around $1800, maybe can be done cheaper at local shop? Not sure.

Your probably only looking at about $200 for the 3 mounts so yes I would hope a shop other then the Dealer would do it cheaper.
 

Dirty Dog

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After doing a little research and looking at the set up is there a safe way to replace engine mounts myself? I’ve done it on a CJ7 but there was a lot more room and I could access them from the top.
Of course you can. Replacing motor mounts is pretty much the same on any vehicle. Attach the engine hoist. If you do not own one, most chain auto parts stores have loaners. Find one that does and order the motor mounts through them. Unbolt the old motor mounts. Bolt in the new ones.

Admittedly, I have skipped over the cussing that will likely occur while you try to get things aligned, but it's not too difficult. Sometimes you can do it all from the top. Sometimes you need to do some from the bottom. Good news is that our Jeeps usually have plenty of room to get under them. I always prefer to have a second pair of hands to help out with the jiggling and wiggling needed to get things aligned.
Called a couple shops in town but couldn’t get a straight answer on cost either???
That's a common issue with phone estimates. Partly because they can't see the vehicle. How do they know you don't also need the transmission mount replaced? Failure of any one of the three mounts puts added stress on the other two. So it's not at all uncommon for them to fail together, or close together.

Personally, I don't replace one tire. Or one tie rod end. Or one motor mount. But that's me. YMMV. Void where prohibited. Not valid with any other opinions. Ask your Dr. if mount replacement is right for you. Do not take if you are allergic to grease.
 
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Ryandou

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Finally got it in a shop, and they’re saying the locker on the rear is causing this behavior? Their solution is to swap that out with a limited slip diff. Anyone dealt with that before?
 

BLACKJKU

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Finally got it in a shop, and they’re saying the locker on the rear is causing this behavior? Their solution is to swap that out with a limited slip diff. Anyone dealt with that before?


What kind of a locker is in the rear?
 

Dirty Dog

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Finally got it in a shop, and they’re saying the locker on the rear is causing this behavior? Their solution is to swap that out with a limited slip diff. Anyone dealt with that before?
Is it a Rubicon? What sort of locker is in it?
But regardless, a properly functioning locker is not going to cause your problem. All of us with lockers can attest to this. And while I cannot think of any reason an IMproperly functioning locker would cause your problem, the solution would be to swap it for a properly functioning locker.